Bengel

This moment... a recurrent skydiver's dream coming true, am I right?! So hard to find words. And yes, definitely a headstone for wingsuiting and aviation. Landing in deep powder snow seems to be possible right now, if you ask me (though the depth might be hard to judge ==> paint?!). I'm a British nanny, and I'm dangerous!

Quick question: is there any significant change of the settings one should do, while shooting in snow? Any suggestions? I'm a British nanny, and I'm dangerous!

Nice! I'm a British nanny, and I'm dangerous!

Thanks a lot for the fast reply. So let's say, I try out several settings on my canopy and have a look ONLY on the speed(vector?), keeping the numbers in mind to have a look at the glide later via Paralog; is the speed indication from the Garmin useful to find out the optimum speed for best glide (not regarding wind, altitude...)? I'm a British nanny, and I'm dangerous!

Though I'm not planning to use this on a WS jump but under canopy I thought, I would get more answers from this side of the forum. So imagine you're under canopy and have a GPS device, in this case a Garmin Foretrex 101, with you. As you maybe already know, you have several options regarding the display. For example, you can change the units to „speed“, „vertical speed“, „altitude“, „distance to...“ in the same display. I was wondering, if it is possible to read your best glide from that. For example, you go to full speed, hands up, then, you give a little bit more brake/rear riser input and keep watching the numbers while doing so. Is there a way to judge „best glide“ from that? Maybe decreasing „vertical speed“ while trying to keep the „speed“ up? Is „speed“ your horizontal speed or the vector your canopy is flying? I hope, I made myself clear and thank you for your answers. Cheers Chris I'm a British nanny, and I'm dangerous!

Yes, that's what I was thinking about. Take several pics. It's cheating and it's not. Even Scott Kelby suggests this way of doing night shots. Especially when you're going to add the moon. Take another lens with a big focal length, zoom it all the way in and capture the moon. You might wonder, why you should take a close up from the moon. In real life our brain tells us, that it looks big, especially when we have objects next to it like ground, trees, etc... If you use a wide angle , it's gonna be very very tiny on the final picture;). I would even suggest you do the same thing with the stars. Take a close up of several different stars and add them later (strg+c and then just hold down on strg+v, move your mouse while doing so and cluster your pic!). It's a whole lot of editing and many people might say, that's not real photography. On the other hand, it's art, isn't it? Plus it reflects more of what you've seen in that night than a single picture with a bright skydiver plus a black background without moons, stars or vice versa. So let us know about the results! I'm a British nanny, and I'm dangerous!

QuoteSee you in the incident reports......what's so cool a about it? Looks like the pilot has some Paragliding and/or Speedflying background. I understand, that it's easier to perform with such wings, but with a skydiving wing without a hip attachment harness... Impressive. Can you do the same move with your Nano? How? I'm a British nanny, and I'm dangerous!

video, por favor!!! I'm a British nanny, and I'm dangerous!

Here are my two cents to this thread. Fuji Finepix F40d with a packing bungee attached to the trigger. So after the two minutes call, I just set it on continuously shooting and forget about it. Not as good as a DSLR but still nice ;) I'm a British nanny, and I'm dangerous!

I'm not sure, cause I'm really a rookie in DSLR. But I think this could help. http://www.picturecode.com/ I'm a British nanny, and I'm dangerous!

I like this one ;) http://www.skydivekstate.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=307 I'm a British nanny, and I'm dangerous!

Spanish sun, mhmmmmm...

Sometimes you just can't see the wood for the trees Sounds like a good advice, cheers. I'm a British nanny, and I'm dangerous!

Using a skydiving harness with shoulder attachment points may be better, but the twist you do is still changing the load on the leg straps which pull directly on your risers. It's not a big problem on bigger canopies, like 170ish plus (depending on the wingload). I tried it with both, with 170sqft and with 150sqft and on the latter I experienced some major steering problems . I'm a British nanny, and I'm dangerous!

Alright dudes, I came up with a total different solution where NO SOLDERING is involved. And before you read the rest of this gibberish, be aware that I've no education in electronics at all. So if there's any error in reasoning, please tell me. Here's what I did. I took a short piece of cable and deinsulated it. I short-circuited the "gray-finger section", which is described here http://thehowzone.com/how/D70-Remote/3 and fixed the cable with tape. So now the button to activate the IR is "pressed". Next step was to loop another cable around the contact for the battery (the one, which is touching the flat side of the battery). I put tape over this as well so the battery circuit CAN'T be CLOSED. I took another cable and taped it to the battery itself. I cut a small hole in the side of the remote to get the two cables out. After that, I reassembled the whole thing. So now, if you connect the two cables from the battery, you close the circuit of the battery itself which can't be done normally, because of the tape in between the two contacts. The little cable, which replaces the "pressed button" does the rest and KATCHINNN... Hope that helped. I'm a British nanny, and I'm dangerous!