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Liemberg

Old fingertrapping tool in a new role.

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Only a couple of weeks ago on this most excellent forum I found out about the finger trapping tool
made in accordance with the K.I.S.S. principle. Looped metal wires with a handle are in every way superior to 'needles with a hollow end'...

That made my set of plastic fids superfluous – which wasn’t that bad, because the new tool was so much better than the old one, as I quickly found out after just a few trials. Though I cleaned up my toolbox, I didn’t get around to throwing the fids away and this week as I was wrestling and cursing once more with cypres loops, cypres temporary pins and the fact that that pin has a nice point while ripcord pins are dull and don't have a grip to speak of - where a sharp ripcord pin would go so much easier into the loop once you remove the cypres pin, when suddenly it hit me:

The plastic finger trapping fids!!!

Did you know that the hollow end of the smallest one slides EXACTLY over any (straight) reserve ripcord pin?

Did you know the plastic finger trapping fid has a POINT?
:)
Now I suspect that probably half of you knew that already, jealously guarding trade secrets for the uninitiated, but for any one out there who – like me – now and then secretly thinks about half a centimeter more slack on the cypress loop (“SCREW THE MANUAL!!!”) , this may end your suffering...

1. Slide fid over ripcord pin
2. Put tension on the cypres loop, remove cypres pin and push the fid into the loop with the ripcord pin
3. Once loop is over the ripcord pin, remove fid (the plastic ones are conveniently red...)

OK; small step for mankind.
For me on average it means at least several minutes per repack.

So excuse me while I gloat and pat myself on the back in public...:P

(Meanwhile I do hate the fact that the finger trapping fids were in my toolbox a couple of years before I got this idea.... Yet I’m sure a few of the readers will agree that they owe me a :D, after reading this post. ;))

"Whoever in discussion adduces authority uses not intellect but memory." - Leonardo da Vinci
A thousand words...

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item S7935


Nah, that one is curved, not red and made of stainless steel.
Overengineered IMHO.
Besides, I'm Dutch. Why would I be paying serious money for an item when something similar is already in my toolbox?
That goes against everything my (and Koppels) ancestors taught us!
;)

"Whoever in discussion adduces authority uses not intellect but memory." - Leonardo da Vinci
A thousand words...

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Talking of the kiss principle, why not just route the pull up under the airtec temp pin? then when you pull up there is a gap under the temp pin which keeps the loop open so it is easy to slide in the closing pin. One less tool.
_________________________________________

Nullius in Verba

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The plastic finger trapping fids!!!

Did you know that the hollow end of the smallest one slides EXACTLY over any (straight) reserve ripcord pin?

Did you know the plastic finger trapping fid has a POINT?
:)
Now I suspect that probably half of you knew that already, jealously guarding trade secrets for the uninitiated, but for any one out there who – like me – now and then secretly thinks about half a centimeter more slack on the cypress loop (“SCREW THE MANUAL!!!”) , this may end your suffering...

1. Slide fid over ripcord pin
2. Put tension on the cypres loop, remove cypres pin and push the fid into the loop with the ripcord pin
3. Once loop is over the ripcord pin, remove fid (the plastic ones are conveniently red...)


Hate to say this but it's been done. We used to pack the old Streamlites (para innovaters) with a plastic fid to lead the oversized (single) pin through the loop (circa 1983). The last third of the pin (straight pin BTW) is set inside the housing, much like a Racers top pin. Without this little tool packing those things was a bitch!!!!

Mick.

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I still need a T to pack a reflex... unless you've got a trick you are holding out on me :ph34r::D



>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Soft bofkins are much better for packing Reflexes.

Jump Shack ghost loops (a variation on soft bodkins) are better ...

But the best are adjustable ghost loops with metal rings on the bottom end.
Make them the same way you make replacement reserve loops for Reflexes, just make the adjustable, finger-trapped portion closer to the ring.
At the start of every Reflex/Racer/Teardrop pack job, install a ghost loop with the metal ring beside the ripcord pin.
Pack it 3/4 of the way like a Vector/Mirage/Infinity, using the ghost loop as a temporary loop.
Late in the packing process, you attach your pilot chute loop to the ghost loop and suck the whole process back down through the container.
One advantage of adjustable ghost loops is that you can tighten them early in the closing process to compress the side flaps. Mind you, this requires you to fingertrap the end of your pull-up cord - around the pilot chute loop - every time before you pull it back down through the container.

Another option is to use the adjustable loop to compress the pilot chute spring, before flipping the rig over and inserting the real ripcord pin.

Another tip is to finger-trap your pull-up cord to your ghost loop, to simplify tool count at the end of every pack job. If you tie two ghost loops together, then you reduce your Racer tool count from 6 to 1.

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Mick,

Please call Eric Fradet at la Federation Francais du Parachutisme.
While you are at it, please call me so we can catch up on old times. I have a few questions that can only be answered by your experience.

Blue skies,

Rob Warner
CSPA Rigger B

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Mick,

Please call Eric Fradet at la Federation Francais du Parachutisme.
While you are at it, please call me so we can catch up on old times. I have a few questions that can only be answered by your experience.

Blue skies,

Rob Warner
CSPA Rigger B





Rob I contacted Eric Fradet, he e mailed me a day or two ago. I don't have a phone number for you. PM me @ . This (DZ.Com) mail system has let me down on a couple of occasions, so I don't fully trust it.

Mick.

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why not just route the pull up under the airtec temp pin? then when you pull up there is a gap under the temp pin which keeps the loop open so it is easy to slide in the closing pin. One less tool.


?!?!:S?!?!:S...

I HATE it when people prove themselves to be smarter than me on internet forums... Then again, you probably never would have brought it up had I not started the subject, so I guess it is one more of those 'learning opportunities'...
Does this mean that it is you, we owe a few :D :D :D ?

And what am I to do now with a fine set of plastic fids that are definitely obsolete*)? Ideas? Anyone?...
:)
*) Tried it. Works as well as my 'recycled plastic fids' & indeed one less tool...

"Whoever in discussion adduces authority uses not intellect but memory." - Leonardo da Vinci
A thousand words...

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I HATE it when people prove themselves to be smarter than me on internet forums... Then again, you probably never would have brought it up had I not started the subject, so I guess it is one more of those 'learning opportunities'...
Does this mean that it is you, we owe a few :D :D :D ?

And what am I to do now with a fine set of plastic fids that are definitely obsolete*)? Ideas? Anyone?...
:)
*) Tried it. Works as well as my 'recycled plastic fids' & indeed one less tool...



I wish I could claim credit for this but I have to tell you I was given that tip by a co worker of mine.

She posts her under the name of Smiler, and every time she sees me putting a pin into a reserve loop she lives up to the name now.

The annoying thing is I was her supervising rigger until recently :)
_________________________________________

Nullius in Verba

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pm your address and its on its way


I'm not holding my breath, Koppel - don't forget I can read your signature line... ;)



***

me,me,me and the rest can die...

What ever could he mean by THAT?!;)



Actually it's: me me me and the others can choke, meaning: me me me and forget about the others.

No comments on what he means by that ;)

ciel bleu,
Saskia

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I use Cypres cord as a pull up loop, (as you most likely do) I was taught to find the center of the pull up loop and put a 6" piece of cypress cord inside the cypress pull up loop. It doubles the size of the pull up loop making it easier to get the pin in.

I like you idea though!!:)
"America will never be destroyed from the outside,
if we falter and lose our freedoms,
it will be because we destroyed ourselves."
Abraham Lincoln

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I'm not sure the plastic fid will last too long. The advantage of the stainless steel is durability and with the curved shape you can get a push through the loop,use a rag to keep from cutting your hand. If you need to replace a ripcord, add or remove an RSL, you can without opening the rig.If damaged, will the plastic leave anything in the loop you cannot see? I think with the forces involved stainless steel is superior in all area's. Granted you do not have to use this tool all the time but when needed, it's a godsend.

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Hey Pete,

I finally packed my first reserve since getting your s/s doo-hicky. Got the job all done (a real struggle; rig builders do not know how to size their products for customers canopies [end of this rant]) and when I got all done, I found your tool still in my kit box.

Well, maybe next time I'll remember it.

Jerry

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