masterrigger1

Peter, According to the FAA, time limits are to be addressed at the time of initial TSO certification to be valid. National is still manufacturing parachutes under the same old TSO from years ago that never had a time limit. The only thing that has changed at National is their manual. With that said and understood, there are not any National parachutes out there that have a 20 year time limit according to the FAA. MEL Skyworks Parachute Service, LLC www.Skyworksparachuteservice.com

I never knew of him being involved. MEL Skyworks Parachute Service, LLC www.Skyworksparachuteservice.com

Jim, How did it get worn?? I guess it all boils down to what materials you are working on and where you get your info from. I did a quick look and scanned a page from the Singer 143W manual. It actually quotes a full tooth, then goes on to say what ever makes you happy. See attached: MEL Skyworks Parachute Service, LLC www.Skyworksparachuteservice.com

What is making the difference is the 600lb Technora lines. Actually, the opening would a bit slower with the standard VX line trim. In flight the canopy does perform better with the JVX line trim as it is a more aggressive angle of attack. Glad you like it, MEL Skyworks Parachute Service, LLC www.Skyworksparachuteservice.com

I might just know a guy...... MEL Skyworks Parachute Service, LLC www.Skyworksparachuteservice.com

While it can be done, I can honestly say I have never seen anyone sharpen a set of feed dogs. New ones are very inexpensive, say less than $10 in most cases. Actually a matched set consisting of a new needle plate, new feed dog, and new presser foot is usually less than $25 USD for a single needle drop feed machine. MEL Skyworks Parachute Service, LLC www.Skyworksparachuteservice.com

Agreed that the operator can make a difference. But at the same time a properly working sewing machine lessens that fact a great deal. Think of it in these terms. A bad operator using a bad sewing machine will almost always have a bad outcome. vs A bad operator using a good functioning machine will maybe have a bad outcome. Also, IMHO a properly set up sewing machine will not need more finesse on lighter materials to maintain a constant stitch rate. MEL Skyworks Parachute Service, LLC www.Skyworksparachuteservice.com

It could be that the feed dogs are worn. They also could be out of adjustment. Also your needle plate could be bent from a needle strike. All of these things really need to be looked at. The needle plate can be straightened (if bent) by removing it, then turning upside down on the flat anvil part of a vise or any smooth metal surface. Then gentle tap back into place/straight and flat. Be sure to sand any burrs off that may be around the needle hole. Emery rope is best for this purpose. The feed dogs can be dull or worn. This comes from someone rotating the machine with the presser foot resting against the feed dog without anything between the two of them. This will also damage the presser foot by "grooving out" the presser foot on the bottom side. So make sure the bottom is flat and smooth. To check and see if the feed dogs are in adjustment, simply look to see how high the teeth come above the needle plate. They should come up no less than 60% of the depth of the teeth and no more than 100% of the teeth. The other adjustment for the feed dog is to make sure it is centered front to back in regards to stroke/movement in the needle plate. Lastly check to see if the presser bar is not limiting out. With the feed dogs in the lowest position and with the presser foot in place, make a mark on the presser bar just where it exits the bottom of the head. Now remove the presser foot, then lower the presser bar and see if the mark is now lower and closer to the needle plate as it should be. MEL Skyworks Parachute Service, LLC www.Skyworksparachuteservice.com

Micheal, All of my tacks are of my design. Basically, I went with textile industry standards when making them while at the same time, leaned into similar patterns that other manufacturers where using at that time. When we started introducing the first competition line sets made with Technora, I experimented with several different tacks over the years. This resulted some of the tacks you now see on the Daedalus and Icarus canopies. To answer your question,"Do you have the set of patterns from PD", that answer is two fold. I do have the specs on them, but I do not use them. Remember this when designing tacks; It is NOT a bartack unless it has three components and also uses a single continuous thread for all three components. 1.It must have the running stitch which is the "bar". The "bar" is the backbone of the whole tack. It usually makes three passes east to west before starting the covering stitch. 2.The covering Stitch covers the running stitch which both protects it and strengthens it by making stitches somewhat perpendicular to the bar. 3.The tying stitch which is usually three needle penetrations (two stitches) in exactly the same place. This locks the thread tails down and prevents them from fraying later on. The tying will only work properly when you use the machines knives. If you remove the machines knives and trim with scissors, the tails will be too short to tie on the next bartack. This is why people that remove the knives usually prefer a center start-center stop tack even though a left start-left stop bartack is actually stronger. Lastly remember this.If it is something other than listed above, it is simply a "tack" or "pattern tack". That is what they are called in the needle trade at least. MEL Skyworks Parachute Service, LLC www.Skyworksparachuteservice.com

To be more correct, I actually deal mostly with the Juki brand. I have actually do own a Brother 430-E that I just never never use and have programmed a couple of others in the past. MEL Skyworks Parachute Service, LLC www.Skyworksparachuteservice.com

The 112W140 is quite different than the 212 series machines with regard to the hooks and bobbin case openers. To check the timing,(as with most machines) simply rotate the hand wheel forward until the take-up lever is at it's highest point. Now check to see if the timing mark on the hookshaft is aligned with the arrow or pointer. This is a check to make sure the mainshaft is in time with the hookshaft. Next, set the hook to needle clearance. Next, set the hook timing. Next is needle bar height. Last up is the bobbin case openers. These are cam operated, so make sure the eccentric is not worn out.(The eccentric is made onto the hook shaft) These are set to just open or rotate the bobbin case ever so slightly, just enough for the top thread to pass though. MEL Skyworks Parachute Service, LLC www.Skyworksparachuteservice.com

In my friend's house in Deland.... I can set you up if needed. MEL Skyworks Parachute Service, LLC www.Skyworksparachuteservice.com

Well, if he was wanting to build a new one, I know where several never assembled Pegasus parts/canopies are sitting on a shelve. MEL Skyworks Parachute Service, LLC www.Skyworksparachuteservice.com

Micheal, Call Jado in NY and talk to Onik. He can make you one. (718) 784-2314 Cost for the cam will be about $450. If do not have the 42 stitch gears, they will be about $500. MEL Skyworks Parachute Service, LLC www.Skyworksparachuteservice.com

Good question. I use a paper towel and wet an area with the oil. I repeatedly wipe and clean the cables with this full length. I then let it stand a 3-4 minutes and then use another clean area of the paper towel and more oil. This time leaving a trace film of oil the entire length of the cables. I have never tried the silicone gel. Who knows it may be a better idea. MEL Skyworks Parachute Service, LLC www.Skyworksparachuteservice.com

Yes that is the stuff I use. And yes it still will be a easier pull, but you should be living the cables every 30 -45 days anyway. MEL Skyworks Parachute Service, LLC www.Skyworksparachuteservice.com

It has been my experience that John is correct on this one. The yellow coating on the cable (Lolon) is hydroscopic which means that it will absorb the oil. When you use 3 in 1 the cables will become more flexible and pliable than if you simply use a silicon spray. Just shake the cables before oiling and again afterward and you can see and fell the difference. A simple test is to pull test the cables with a scale. Test cables with silicon and ones with 3 in 1 and you will note the difference. I still teach my students to use 3 in 1 and to let it soak in. I also teach them that oil does not attract dirt, it may hold it place, but it does not attract it. Jump shack did not start using the red cables (Teflon) until maybe 1997 or somewhere about there, so before that they did use the standard use yellow cables. So they did have some previous experience with Lolon. I remember when the silicone started to be used. IFIRC, it started with a group of SCUBA divers that were also skydivers. They used the silicone on their SCUBA gear on a regular basis, started using it for the 3 ring cables, told their friends that is was the cat's meow and a trend was started. Afterward, hard housings started coming to market to offset hard pulls. Some of these hard pulls were due to twisted risers but not all. BTW, you are very much correct on the need to clean and oil regularly no matter what lubricate you use. MEL Skyworks Parachute Service, LLC www.Skyworksparachuteservice.com

Yes, the failures were located at the point of a previous tensile test on a tandem reserve. MEL Skyworks Parachute Service, LLC www.Skyworksparachuteservice.com

The definition is all inclusive of every type of alteration, whether it be a chest strap, a bridal, a pilot chute...you name it. The item in question may or may not have a design per se or an approval, but it would have been at least "manufactured". Not spending any more time on this as I see it as a moot point anyway, but the questions in the FAA test did have the word "manufactured" in the question at one time. MEL Skyworks Parachute Service, LLC www.Skyworksparachuteservice.com

Yep, close enough. Because mains do not have to be approved. The reference that I used is an old one before it was moved to 8900.1. MEL Skyworks Parachute Service, LLC www.Skyworksparachuteservice.com

Here you go: 8300.10, Paragraph 13, b... B. Any change to the configuration, method of operation, or method of packing the main parachute, up to and including the main canopy attachment links or the male end of the quick release fittings, is a main pack alteration. Any main parachute alteration that affects the strength or operation of the auxiliary parachute, including the harness, must be regarded as an alteration of the auxiliary parachute and handled accordingly. MEL DPRE since 1995 First Jump September 30th, 1976 Skyworks Parachute Service, LLC www.Skyworksparachuteservice.com

Yep! There was a big long discussion about it a few years ago on here. Search for it. MEL Skyworks Parachute Service, LLC www.Skyworksparachuteservice.com

Mark, That came from 8300 Volume 2, Chapter 28 IIRC, which was the inspector's handbook. It also is a test question in the FAA Parachute rigger's written test and has about 4 different variants of that question. You've got to be kidding.................. MEL Skyworks Parachute Service, LLC www.Skyworksparachuteservice.com

The FAA defines any change from the original manufactured configuration an alteration, so that is where I was coming up with the term alteration. You are right. The manufacturers have different chest strap lengths that are approved, but once out in the field, changing from one to another would be in that term an alteration according to the definition. MEL Skyworks Parachute Service, LLC www.Skyworksparachuteservice.com

Walt, It pretty much comes to this: 1. A non-certified owner can only pack a main parachute that he or she will jump. He or she cannot do any maintenance (unless supervised by the appropriate rigger) 2. A Senior Rigger is the next level up, only being allowed to do simple repairs that will not affect airworthiness. This rating is meant to be a beginning rigger. What he or she can do is pack both a main and reserve parachute, replace velcro, make small patches that do not encompass a seam, replace snaps, and assemble/inspect parachutes. Pretty much the simple stuff.... 3. A Master Rigger or the manufacturer does everything else. Back to the OP's question; Altering the length of a chest strap is plain and simple an alteration which a Senior rigger cannot do with or without any manufacturer's BS. Cheers, MEL Skyworks Parachute Service, LLC www.Skyworksparachuteservice.com