0
bdrake529

Wingtip camera mount

Recommended Posts

I've been thinking about a way to mount a video camera (a real camera, like the CX100, as I'm still not impressed by the quality of "action sports" cameras out there, like the GoPro/ContourHD) at arm's length. Coupled with a fish-eye, I'm hoping this shot will be a virtual "wing man" shot, useful primarily for proximity flying footage.

A standard "hand cam" mount doesn't seem useful for any suit with wingtip grippers, as the hand has to be rotated down to hold the gripper. I'm also a little skeptical of any mount involving a forearm "gauntlet" to provide support since my V3 sleeve is a snug fit with a long-sleeve thermal shirt and anything thicker would make zipping up difficult.

The concept I'm currently exploring is a "wingtip gripper" mount. The idea is that the mounting base would be attached to the wingtip gripper, allowing tension-control of the gripper to remain and providing some extra support to the mount.

The mount is attached to the wrist via a strap to provide support, and also to secure the mount/camera after deployment. The idea is that upon deployment, the mount is detached from the wingtip gripper, the arm sleeve unzipped, and then the mount dangles from the wrist allowing (fairly) unimpeded control of the canopy until landing.

I threw together a quick prototype last night. The giant clamp was all I had on hand to functionally serve its purpose, though it's obviously goofy looking and not an ideal solution. Once I'm satisfied with the general design, I plan to have a light-weight aluminum version made by a welder as I don't trust the structural integrity of dowel rod. The shape is what's important, the materials are just for prototyping.

I'm posting this in hopes that perhaps someone will have some advice, critique, a different way of looking at this idea.

Obviously, the mount is only meant for the left hand to avoid PC problems. Also, even with the short RAM mount and a CX100, flying this will require some shoulder strength conditioning preparation. It's possible that the wing inflation/"lift" will decrease the strain.

Thanks in advance for any help/advice/brainstorming,


Brian
Brian Drake

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'll most definitely try it out of a plane first (not because I care about my life, but because I'm in the US and legal big cliffs aren't exactly abundant), and a quick release is also something I'm trying to solve. Though I wonder exactly how it is "snag tastic". When I deploy in full flight, my canopy slides down my legs and past my feet. I'm then pendulumed forward, at which time, I bring my hands to my torso to begin unzipping my wings. I'm having a hard time visualizing how something on my left hand would ever be anywhere near my lines/canopy during crucial stages of deployment.

Perhaps if I had a PC dancing in my burble, but that seems like a very slight chance. Plus it would have to dance all the way across my wingspan and I've never seen that, especially with significant forward speed.

Good safety factor to bring up, but perhaps I need more imagination to see how it's a major concern. My closing pins could potentially attract a lightning strike too, but I haven't seen any BASE rig manufacturer consider replacing them with a non-metallic material. ;)

Brian Drake

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
my only comment is you could easily replace that huge Manfrotto double ball with a micro-Israeli arm and still have far more than enough strength, and lose no maneuverability as to camera positioning.
You'd lose quite a bit of weight, too.
I don't have any short Israeli's arms, or I'd lend you one. I only have longer ones (6"). I believe B&H has the 1" models.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Quote

I'm posting this in hopes that perhaps someone will have some advice, critique, a different way of looking at this idea.



Lts ad a ton of cameras to un-evenly balanced positions in terms of weight and airstream/drag, to make it even more dangerous than it already is:P

Sounds cool to me...hehe
JC
FlyLikeBrick
I'm an Athlete?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
With all the tiny HD-ish cameras out there (GoProHero HD etc) why even go for something bigger..

http://www.flylikebrick.com//playmovie_flv.php?id=49
0:40 seconds is probably close to what you want already.
Thats just the standard headband thingy from the GoPro hero mounted on a wristband (worn around the hand).

Much smaller/lighter...
JC
FlyLikeBrick
I'm an Athlete?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Spot,

Do you have a link to share about what micro-Israeli arm you're referring to? Once I realized you weren't suggesting I dismember our mutual friend Ori, I did a google search but didn't see anything that was comparable in mounting ability.

I'm using RAM products, not Manfrotto, btw. I have both the 1.5" and 1" ball systems. The 1" are lighter, but I was using the 1.5" for the prototype since I have more variety in arm lengths in that size.

Thanks
Brian Drake

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm an HD snob now. The GoPro is a fun camera, and I like the various, creative angles you can get, but the quality is crap. Perhaps the upcoming HD version will be better, but I highly doubt the quality will be in the same arena as the CX100.

...and if I'm going to risk my life skimming past rocks, I'd better get the best looking footage possible or else that risk is in vain. ;)

Brian Drake

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
How about you mount the cx-100 in some custom glove on your left wrist canted forward of the wing leading edge but manage the wing gripper with a an extension that extends forward and angle out in the direction of your hand. Like the tiller on a sailboat.

Assymetrical grippers will be awkward but you will have less bulk and gadgetry while the camera has a more solid platform and the ability for some real time camera aiming.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
With the jitter/stutter that happens with the CX105 (and most similar cameras from sony) when you shoot high speed passing/panning objects close in front of the lens, you may want to test a bit first before you put a lot of effort in and end up with jittery footage..
JC
FlyLikeBrick
I'm an Athlete?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

it's not the camera, it's the codec. MPEG at these bitrates can't manage non-redundant pixels at these speeds.
Unfortunately for you, this is exacerbated by the fact that you're 50i. Those 10 extra frames really do make a difference.
But...now we're getting into a discussion for the camera forum.:P
Brian, here is a link to the 1.5" Israeli arm, I can't find the 1" arms that I know BH and Armato's sell.
http://www.filmtools.com/nemiisarmw1h.html

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Thanks Spot. That's about what I found on Google too. The application isn't glaringly obvious to me. Further elaboration would be helpful.

Monkey's given me a cool new idea that I'm going to try to make a 3D model of in the next few days.

Glen, the glove w/ tiller idea has potential too. Worth investigating as well.

Thanks everyone.
Brian Drake

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Quote

high speed passing/panning objects close in front of the lens,



I plan to have this pointing at me, across my body to whatever is to my right. Thus the "virtual wingman" thought. The "high speed passing" will be at least 6+ feet away from the camera. That + is a big + as I'm not skimming inches from rocks (not yet). So probably 10 ft or more from the camera.
Brian Drake

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
That may be one of the coolest camera mount ideas I've seen.
Do you really need the box-on-a-post part though? How aimable do you need it to be?
If I were building it, I think I'd ditch the "industry standard" mounting style and build box-on-a-plate. Flush-mounted, so theres little to no lever-arm physics going on when wind and inertia start shoving that camera around on its post. No post. Basically integrate it into the wingtip. Camera lies on the back of your wrist like a particularly hard piece of wing topskin. Pretty close to the triangular dowel/plate arrangement youve got but bigger. If the angle isn't right, include a wedge angle into the flat of the plate itself so the camera is flat and level when your arm is in "standard flight posture", whatever that angle turns out to be. If rigidity is a problem you could back it up with a stiffener in the back of your sleeve.

Then you could ditch the entire wrist tether altogether... you'd just have one unusually bulky, flat, rigid gripper on that side. Post-deployment, the camera hangs at your side as part of the wing. I'd probably make it out of carved and bent lexan once I' got the exact shape, geometry and proportions...
Now that you got me thinking about it, I'm tempted to try to build one for myself. I'm starting to think I might be able to pull it off with a single piece of lexan, maybe two or three if getting the bends right is too tricky.
-B
Live and learn... or die, and teach by example.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Lurch,

The RAM arm is less for aiming and more for elevation. If I mount directly on the wingtip gripper, it's possible that once the wing inflates, it will obscure the entire (or most of the) camera view. There's also the height of my rig which will take a lot of screen real estate (I plan to have a Razor or Hybrid L/D with a Feather in it by next year, but it's still some height off my back) so the elevation is meant to "see over" that too.
Brian Drake

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I spent about an hour tonight trying to modify a rollerblade wrist-guard into a mount base glove like Glen suggested, but didn't have much success at keeping the mount in the position I want since there was a continual rotational torque on the soft material of the "glove".

Then I tried something that just may work. And I feel stupid for not thinking of it first. Using my mid length RAM arm, I simply held that in my hand, allowing me still to pinch the gripper. The wrist strap is still there in case I drop it, and for after deployment. Attached are pics. Also attached is a screen grab (I haven't yet adjusted the lens hood on my Opteka 0.3, so there's some vignetting). Though not exactly the angle I want (my body should be horizontal across the screen, not an angle), it gives the general idea.

The "hold a stick with a camera on it" approach is what I'm going with for now, but I'm still going to try some of the other ideas I've thought of or have been proposed to me in case this doesn't work as well in practice (high speed wind) as in theory (my living room).

Thanks again everyone. Keep the ideas coming!
Brian Drake

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I'm not a BASE jumper nor a proximity flyer (except for clouds), but I would be worried about the mental distraction of a mount like this in an environment as mentally intensive as proximity flight. I mean, a camera on your head (out of sight) is bad enough for a distraction. If I had something in my hand, I would be thinking about it no matter how hard I tried not to. To each his own though. The angle is indeed kind of cool.
www.WingsuitPhotos.com

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Quote


Nice work, Brian. Now you just need a belly, toe, and while you're at it, why not put a CX 100 in the nose of your canopy (airpressure will allow it to stay there, according to the PDFT guys). Why not get seven angles per jump? :)one curiosity; when you move the swingarm on your helmet to the rear, are you certain it won't get in the way of a reserve deployment?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
"Now you just need a belly[check], toe[check and ankle check]"

Nose of the canopy? Not interested. Anyone who saw my BASE videos knows that all that hassle of rigging isn't worth it for only 3-5 seconds of footage (j/k)

"Why not get seven angles per jump?"

I've got 3 cameras (4 once I fix my stuck-in-night-shot-from-sliding-with-me-down-a-mountain-while-hiking-to-a-jump HC5), so I could get a bunch of angles per jump. But I mainly stick to 1 "specialty" angle and 1 normal (forward facing) helmet cam on most jumps. No need to get too crazy. Believe it or not, but excessive drag is something I at least think about (if not always act on).

Reserve problem? Chin to the chest keeps the camera in-line with my torso, and not covering the reserve flap. Should be ok. But Jarno's right, I don't usually jump that angle with skydiving gear. Only did yesterday to see what was happening back there with the wing mount. Actually, come to think about it, that's the only jump where I've used that rear facing mount with skydiving gear (I tested it out of a balloon with BASE gear before taking it off a cliff) and I don't have plans to do it on a regular basis. Thanks for the safety concern though.
Brian Drake

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

0