Closing loop stuff?

[jmidgley 0]

Hi

I'd like to make some closing loops to have as spares - what do I ask for? And is it the same stuff as the cord on a powertool/packboy?

Do you (questions, questions) 'spike' the hole where you thread the line back through itself, or cut?

You'll guess I haven't made any before...

John

[Hooknswoop 19]

You'll need type IIa, which is type II with the core cords removed. Paragear sells a 100-yard roll for $22.50. They also sell the fids to fingertrap the closing loops. You can also make your own tool out of 0.20 or 0.32 safety wire.

I have switched to Type IV, removing the inner cords, for closing loops.

Derek

[mr2mk1g 10]

buy them - they're 50p each - ask at your DZ shop

You cant make em for that and why take the risk of introducing shoddy workmanship (not to disparrage your skills or anything)

[Pablito 0]

I made mine of Spectra 1000. I like them better for not any paticular reason. Hoopnswoop wrote some great advise:)
Cielos Azules
Pablito

"If you don't overcome your fears they will overcome you first"
Shady Monkey/6Segundos Rodriguez/AKA Pablito

[Samurai136 0]

The cord on the packboy/ tool is cypres loop.

My team mate's tool needs to be re-lined (yes he packs that much!). I'm re-lining his tool using the "no sew" technique this afternoon.

Ken

"Buttons aren't toys." - Trillian
Ken

[JohnRich 4]

Quote

I have switched to Type IV, removing the inner cords, for closing loops.

I'd like to put some emphasis on your comments about removing the inner cords, for other readers here. In the old days, we just used 550 cord, which has 7 strands on the inside. If you use cord with inner strands like this, it is very important to "gut" the cord, removing those inner strands. There have been incidents long ago, whereby that wasn't done. This can cause those inner cords to shift around and bunch-up inside the hollow sheath, creating a lump that won't slide back through the grommet at opening time.

Beware.

[diablopilot 2]

I'm a big fan of using leftover Spectra from old line sets. It wears very well, and lasts a long time.

Oh, and it's usualy something you can get from your rigger for free.

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You're not as good as you think you are. Seriously.

[mjosparky 3]

Go to your local gear store or talk to your rigger and buy some. Much easier and unless you plan on becoming a rigger, you won't have to by a finger trap tool.
Sparky

My idea of a fair fight is clubbing baby seals

[diablopilot 2]

Of course you can make your own fingertrap tool with an old hard toggle, or drawer knob, and a guitar wire for about a buck.

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You're not as good as you think you are. Seriously.

[PhreeZone 15]

Or you could talk to the guys in the machine shop at the DZ and make one in abouth 30 seconds with Safety wire

Yesterday is history
And tomorrow is a mystery

Parachutemanuals.com

[jmidgley 0]

Quote

buy them )

I'm not mean, I'm careful...

I like to be self-reliant, I like to know how things work, and I hate mysteries.

John

[jmidgley 0]

Quote

The cord on the packboy/ tool is cypres loop.

[snip]I'm re-lining his tool using the "no sew" technique this afternoon.

Ken

Different from/harder to obtain than the Spectra referred to in this thread?

If you have a mo, clue me in on the 'no sew' technique.

Regards
John

[jmidgley 0]

OK, I've dismantled the old closing loop. It looks like a micro version of the polypropylene rope towing bridles I've made for towing hang-gliders (you don't want a knot, which can whip round and tie itself to the A-frame - bad day). I'm trying to envisage how you employ a piece of wire to tease the cord down. Please relieve my ignorance.

As for the packboy, I've got this here lathe...

Regards
John

[darkwing 4]

no-sew fingertrap -- see this thread.

-- Jeff
My Skydiving History