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DrizZ

Still Camera Mount: Which is really the best? (yes I read old threads)

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So, I’ve been working on building my first dedicated camera helmet for stills and researching the ‘best’ mount has been a massive headache. I’ve searched, read, searched again, read more, etc.

I know, I know: It’s all about me. Shutup and search. But maybe this thread will help people in the same situation later? Or, more likely, it’ll just be another resource that they read in a flurry of searches like many other threads were to me.

The camera I’ll be mounting primarily is:
Rebel XT with Canon 15mm f2.8 fisheye
(don’t think I’m brave enough to risk my nexk flying the 5d2 quite yet…)

The helmet being used is a:
Bonehead Optik 210
(yes, it has a cutaway chin cup installed)

The primary issues I’m worried about are:

Removability (e.g. Flatlock,Goldmember, Schumacher, Bogen, X-Shut): Important for battery swapping.
Antitwist support, if any
Stability
Security (let’s not start another thread about the fulcrum point being the tripod screw mount ;) )
Helmet Compatibility (i.e. what helmet you mounted it on)
Snag hazard friendliness (it’s a camera helmet, so this may not matter, but the pull ring on the goldmember and Schumacher seem sketchier than the flatlock’s pulltab)

Sorry to be the asshole asking for repeated information, but any constructive input is appreciated. Yes: I have talked to other camera jumpers in person about this, but I want to extend my question to our lovely dz.com audience.

Thanks,
dr.

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I use a flatlock, works fine for me (MXV with an XSi). Very secure and not a whole lot of things that could go wrong with it. Keep it simple stupid type of construction.

The one quam I have with it is it barely blocks the battery door from fully opening (though, on the XT this isn't an issue). I can still open the door far enough to detach it and swap batteries to put it back in.

Keep in mind the snag hazards you noted (the ring) could be resolved with some spectra or something similar. I would just avoid it because the holes are pretty small and it would be a pain in the ass to fit anything thicker than e thread (maybe 3 cord) thru there, and if it's got sharp edges, will wear it away at the worst possible moment.

I liked the x-shut idea, but the fact that it's such a big hole in the helmet kind of turned me away from it.
"I may be a dirty pirate hooker...but I'm not about to go stand on the corner." iluvtofly
DPH -7, TDS 578, Muff 5153, SCR 14890
I'm an asshole, and I approve this message

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Try refining your search to the following:

search string: "Really right Stuff" and or "Bonehead Mantle"

Only show posts made by: loudiamond

I have posted a lot of pictures of the RRS brackets on both Optik and Mantle helmets and there is plenty of feedback from others using the RRS gear. It is bombproof gear but be forewarned, it is not cheap, consider it top shelf camera gear. Mounted correctly, your camera body, your helmet or your body will break before the RRS brackets give.
"It's just skydiving..additional drama is not required"
Some people dream about flying, I live my dream
SKYMONKEY PUBLISHING

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You want a discussion but your post is filled with what things to not discuss....[:/]

OK.
Buy a Really Right Stuff mount/plate and be done with it.
It's really the best.



I agree with this - the RRS mounts and plates are great!
Skwrl Productions - Wingsuit Photography

Northeast Bird School - Chief Logistics Guy and Video Dork

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All of those 'don't discuss' things were me trying to avoid the typical 'try doing a search' response, DSE. I'm really open to any suggestions, options, discussion, or input at all, especially from you (sorry if that sounds fanboyish).

Is this the RRS plate everyone's referring to?

http://reallyrightstuff.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=B400D&type=0&eq=B400D-001&desc=B400D%3a-Conventional-Plate-for-350D%2f400D&key=ait

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Is this the RRS plate everyone's referring to?

http://reallyrightstuff.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=B400D&type=0&eq=B400D-001&desc=B400D%3a-Conventional-Plate-for-350D%2f400D&key=ait



That is one piece specific to your camera. You also need the Quick release clamp lever release. I recommend the B2 LLR II and or the B2 LR II as both are threaded and make for easy instal on a helmet using typical type 8 bolts. Mounting suggestions and pictures can be seen in the threads I mentioned above.


PS: the levers can be switched over so they fold in the direction you want. You just need a small punch to push the pin out and flip the lever over.
"It's just skydiving..additional drama is not required"
Some people dream about flying, I live my dream
SKYMONKEY PUBLISHING

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Really Right Stuff. It's heavy, but only because it's the best. It doesn't budge. Ever. The camera L-bracket is custom for each camera so no twisting and has designed in access all the necessary cables, and is easily switched back and forth from vertical to horizontal mount.
I have it on my Wes flattop.
http://www.exitshot.com

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I love my RRS setup. I am glad I didn't screw around with anything else and purchased it when I first started shooting stills.

I should get a commision from them, a bunch of other camera fliers have moved on to RSS jaw clamps and L mounts after playing around with my helmet. :)

"The restraining order says you're only allowed to touch me in freefall"
=P

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I've been on RRS mounts for a few years and love them. They are pricey and the cost scares most people off but then those people end up complaining about their cheaper mounts and I am yet to ever complain about mine.
Yesterday is history
And tomorrow is a mystery

Parachutemanuals.com

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