snafuhere 0 #1 April 7, 2006 anyone here using that lens for freefall photo? any experience with AF/MF? https://www.facebook.com/1skydive/ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jimoke 0 #2 April 7, 2006 i bought the rebel x about a year ago approx. 5000 shots no problems. so far I have only used the kit lens.....this year I will buy a canon 10-22. this is a great cam for me under all conditions, so far. I use sports mode auto focus for tandems. stay safe jimokeThe ground always, remembers where you are! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DJL 232 #3 April 7, 2006 Works fine but I'd be happier with a 10-15mm."I encourage all awesome dangerous behavior." - Jeffro Fincher Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BlueSBDeath 2 #4 April 8, 2006 I use it on my Dig Reb 300, it has been working great!!! (AF most of the time) I plan on getting the Canon 10-22 very soon :) Stay Safe!! ArvelBSBD...........Its all about Respect, USPA#-7062, FB-2197, Outlaw 499 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
snafuhere 0 #5 April 8, 2006 I have just tested the lens. Actually this was my first still camera jump. Using AF & sports mode. Not very happy with the results though... https://www.facebook.com/1skydive/ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LukeH 0 #6 April 8, 2006 Do a search and you'll find plenty of info on suggested settings. But for a start use Tv mode with a shutter speed of around 1/500. You could also try Manual Focus set close to infinity (test the focus on the ground first). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BlueSBDeath 2 #7 April 9, 2006 First means BEER!!!! Now just keep jumping and working out the details!! I use TV/500 and AF, not all good, and not all bad, just find what works for you!!! NEVER GIVE UP!!!! ArvelBSBD...........Its all about Respect, USPA#-7062, FB-2197, Outlaw 499 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ScottyInAus 0 #8 April 9, 2006 wow.... I use AV (mode) and size of about 5.5-6.2 (about that) and normally get a shutter speed of about 1000-1200... many of your shots blur? Cheers, Jason. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sdctlc 0 #9 April 9, 2006 I went with the kit lens for awhile but now have a Sigma 15mm lens. I set the focus and run mostly in TV with a shutter speed usually around 320. I think that is the setting I dont have the camera in front of me. Dont usually have any Blurr issue and with the above settings (faster shutter on really bright days and maybe one step lower on the cloudy days) I have been getting some good shots! Play around and fid what works best for you.. Scott C."He who Hesitates Shall Inherit the Earth!" Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
snafuhere 0 #10 April 9, 2006 QuoteFirst means BEER!!!! thanks I use sony pc350 with 0.3 diamond for video. The frame diff between pictures taken with 18mm lens setting (28mm on 35) and my video is noticable only when I am very close to the subject. so the kit lens works for me https://www.facebook.com/1skydive/ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
snafuhere 0 #11 April 9, 2006 Quotemany of your shots blur? not really, they are just not as sharp as I thought they would be... the second picture is a crop, that's why it blurs here I post the full frame https://www.facebook.com/1skydive/ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
newshooter12 0 #12 April 9, 2006 the second one's subject is just as blurred as the full frame's subject. i'm taking an educated guess that is because the subject actually makes up so little of the frame and many auto focus systems have trouble finding focus of a close subject with very wide lenses like the 15mm, etc... matt Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
snafuhere 0 #13 April 9, 2006 Quotethe second one's subject is just as blurred as the full frame's subject would manual focus (and high aperture help)? or is it the not-so-good-lens? ==== actually half of the pictures I've taken are not sharp often second plan is sharper then the main subject anything wrong about the camera? am I missing something important? https://www.facebook.com/1skydive/ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jimmytavino 16 #14 April 9, 2006 interesting airplane.....(first picture...exit shot...) high wing twin,,,, with retractable gear... what is it??... Dornier???? how many jumpers does it carry?? why wouldn't the pilot leave the gear stowed on jump run??? is airspeed a factor??? i'd imagine there is lots more drag...with the gear extended..... but surely the pilot can throttle back and add some flaps instead of cycling the gear........right???? jmy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
snafuhere 0 #15 April 10, 2006 it's Chech made Turbolet L-410 18 jumpers I jumped on two different DZs and the pilots always do that to slow it down, don't know why https://www.facebook.com/1skydive/ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
newshooter12 0 #16 April 10, 2006 the more i think about the picture the more i believe there is both motion blurr from a slightly slow aperture and an autofocus issue. to really know i'd like to see the original file with the metadata so i could see what setting the camera was on. Quotewould manual focus (and high aperture help)? high aperture would give you a greater depth of field, but still won't fix the focus problem if the camera isn't focusing on the only thing in the sky besides the horizon. Quoteor is it the not-so-good-lens? it's not so much the lens as probably the combination of settings and your distance from the subject. being closer to the subject would definitely help because then the person would fill more of the frame and the autofocus would have a better chance at getting it right. it just seems like the camera figured that the background was the most consistent area so it focused to that. i don't know the canon camera well enough to say if it has a feature like the nikons do called "closest subject" in the autofocus menus. if it does i'd give that a try. in theory it should focus on the closest subject which would be your HD friend rather then the background. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites BlueSBDeath 2 #17 April 10, 2006 Some other things to consider, is your helmet nice and tight (no shake), are you useing a BITE switch (I used to bite hard and flinch causing camera shake, now I use switch), also, I pick my shots (not hold down the switch) and I make sure I am well placed and in a solid steady body position. I don't take as many pictures as other camera folks, but most of mine are very good (IMHO). Also, because of your .3 to 28mm differance, I would fly in for the Vid and then back out for the stills (I have done this for years). Hang in there and have fun!!! Stay Safe, ArvelBSBD...........Its all about Respect, USPA#-7062, FB-2197, Outlaw 499 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites snafuhere 0 #18 April 10, 2006 settings of the picture attached the camera was in sports auto-mode which is basically iso-400, ai-focus (continous focusing and predicting moving subject distance) I was using tounge switch helmet is tight I belive I'm pretty stable I bought the camera 3 days ago many of the pictures I have taken on the ground are out of focus maybe it's me not experienced, but I do know something about photograpy my previous digital was olympus 5060 'prosumer compact' - the pictures were great https://www.facebook.com/1skydive/ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites ScottyInAus 0 #19 April 10, 2006 Quotewhich is basically iso-400, Quick Hi-jack, what ISO speed do most you guys use? say on a normal (read: bright) day, and why? Cheers Cheers, Jason. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites freeflydrew 0 #20 April 10, 2006 100... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites JohnRet 0 #21 April 10, 2006 You're using an aperture of f11, too. Try around 6. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites JohnRet 0 #22 April 10, 2006 Senn as I had the same camera and lens; try these settings. in TV mode, set the shutter speed to around 250 / 300. Depending on how bright the sky is. Take a few practice shots of the sky from the ground and see what you like best. I wouldn't go anywhere below 250, that's blur territory. Use Manual focus, back the lens down to it's widest, then focus on somehting on the ground, which is the same distance as you'll be shooting at in the air. As someone else said, don't keep your tongue presed down on the switch, focus on taking individual shots. Also, put a couple of elastic bands / tape around the zoom and focus on the lens, the focus gets knocked and moved about easily on the kit lens. Then come back and tell us how it's going Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites freeflydrew 0 #23 April 10, 2006 QuoteYou're using an aperture of f11, too. Try around 6. By moving the ISO to 100 and keeping the shutter above say 500, the aperture will naturally become larger (a smaller number). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites ScottyInAus 0 #24 April 10, 2006 yer thought 100 was the trend. I use the same. I was told by someone that 400 was good, I don't know of any down sides to 100ISO but I know 400 has them (eg. Noise) thats why I was wondering. I've noticed some pics shot at higher ISO's look shit (basically) on high temp shots, at full resolution. On an average for me, I use AV and shoot: 18mm Focal 5.5-6.2f/ 100 ISO and normally get a Shutter Speed of about 1000-1250 (bright days) Cheers, Jason. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites JohnRet 0 #25 April 10, 2006 100 for daytime, up to 400 for sunset. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites Prev 1 2 Next Page 1 of 2 Join the conversation You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account. Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible. Reply to this topic... × Pasted as rich text. Paste as plain text instead Only 75 emoji are allowed. × Your link has been automatically embedded. Display as a link instead × Your previous content has been restored. Clear editor × You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL. Insert image from URL × Desktop Tablet Phone Submit Reply 0 Go To Topic Listing
BlueSBDeath 2 #17 April 10, 2006 Some other things to consider, is your helmet nice and tight (no shake), are you useing a BITE switch (I used to bite hard and flinch causing camera shake, now I use switch), also, I pick my shots (not hold down the switch) and I make sure I am well placed and in a solid steady body position. I don't take as many pictures as other camera folks, but most of mine are very good (IMHO). Also, because of your .3 to 28mm differance, I would fly in for the Vid and then back out for the stills (I have done this for years). Hang in there and have fun!!! Stay Safe, ArvelBSBD...........Its all about Respect, USPA#-7062, FB-2197, Outlaw 499 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
snafuhere 0 #18 April 10, 2006 settings of the picture attached the camera was in sports auto-mode which is basically iso-400, ai-focus (continous focusing and predicting moving subject distance) I was using tounge switch helmet is tight I belive I'm pretty stable I bought the camera 3 days ago many of the pictures I have taken on the ground are out of focus maybe it's me not experienced, but I do know something about photograpy my previous digital was olympus 5060 'prosumer compact' - the pictures were great https://www.facebook.com/1skydive/ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ScottyInAus 0 #19 April 10, 2006 Quotewhich is basically iso-400, Quick Hi-jack, what ISO speed do most you guys use? say on a normal (read: bright) day, and why? Cheers Cheers, Jason. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JohnRet 0 #21 April 10, 2006 You're using an aperture of f11, too. Try around 6. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JohnRet 0 #22 April 10, 2006 Senn as I had the same camera and lens; try these settings. in TV mode, set the shutter speed to around 250 / 300. Depending on how bright the sky is. Take a few practice shots of the sky from the ground and see what you like best. I wouldn't go anywhere below 250, that's blur territory. Use Manual focus, back the lens down to it's widest, then focus on somehting on the ground, which is the same distance as you'll be shooting at in the air. As someone else said, don't keep your tongue presed down on the switch, focus on taking individual shots. Also, put a couple of elastic bands / tape around the zoom and focus on the lens, the focus gets knocked and moved about easily on the kit lens. Then come back and tell us how it's going Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites freeflydrew 0 #23 April 10, 2006 QuoteYou're using an aperture of f11, too. Try around 6. By moving the ISO to 100 and keeping the shutter above say 500, the aperture will naturally become larger (a smaller number). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites ScottyInAus 0 #24 April 10, 2006 yer thought 100 was the trend. I use the same. I was told by someone that 400 was good, I don't know of any down sides to 100ISO but I know 400 has them (eg. Noise) thats why I was wondering. I've noticed some pics shot at higher ISO's look shit (basically) on high temp shots, at full resolution. On an average for me, I use AV and shoot: 18mm Focal 5.5-6.2f/ 100 ISO and normally get a Shutter Speed of about 1000-1250 (bright days) Cheers, Jason. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites JohnRet 0 #25 April 10, 2006 100 for daytime, up to 400 for sunset. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites Prev 1 2 Next Page 1 of 2 Join the conversation You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account. Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible. Reply to this topic... × Pasted as rich text. Paste as plain text instead Only 75 emoji are allowed. × Your link has been automatically embedded. Display as a link instead × Your previous content has been restored. Clear editor × You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL. Insert image from URL × Desktop Tablet Phone Submit Reply 0
freeflydrew 0 #23 April 10, 2006 QuoteYou're using an aperture of f11, too. Try around 6. By moving the ISO to 100 and keeping the shutter above say 500, the aperture will naturally become larger (a smaller number). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ScottyInAus 0 #24 April 10, 2006 yer thought 100 was the trend. I use the same. I was told by someone that 400 was good, I don't know of any down sides to 100ISO but I know 400 has them (eg. Noise) thats why I was wondering. I've noticed some pics shot at higher ISO's look shit (basically) on high temp shots, at full resolution. On an average for me, I use AV and shoot: 18mm Focal 5.5-6.2f/ 100 ISO and normally get a Shutter Speed of about 1000-1250 (bright days) Cheers, Jason. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JohnRet 0 #25 April 10, 2006 100 for daytime, up to 400 for sunset. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
