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freefalle

sighting the ring site

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okay time to vent. Got the entire helmet put together with a little bit of work and some advise from the masses here it came out pretty damn good (thanks) anyway Im trying to sight in the ring site, its a brent findley cross hair. I tried looking at a point on the wall with the cam hooked up to the TV for some reason I can get the point Im looking at lined up okay but when I put something else in the cross hair its not centered on the screen, any thoughts ideas suggestions Im getting a little frustrated

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you need to keep in mind distance. you have two lines one is your line of site and the other is the line of your camera. Were the two meet is center. When you sight the hole thing you will do it at an average distance. when things are farther away or closer you will need to guess on the ajustment. this is just one of the problems with conventunal sights.
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Some one must go to the edge for others to be able to find it. But if you go be sure you can make it back.

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. . . zoom the camera in . . .


This may or may NOT work depending on the camera you have. I've done a couple of demonstrations for people of how imprecise the zoom lenses on some cameras are.
In my TRV10 for instance, there is a noticable shift in the center from when the lens is zoomed in all the way to when it's zoomed out all the way.
quade -
The World's Most Boring Skydiver

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Make a circle with your fingers and put it out in front of you. Look through the circle at something with both eyes, now take turn's closing each eye, the side that what you are looking at stays in the same place is the dominant eye. I hope this help's.


Ray
Small and fast what every girl dreams of!

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I got a cheap airgun laser sight, mounted it on my video box, and then adjusted the laser so that it was dead center in the video monitor. Put the helmet on, and then adjust the ringsite so that the laser dot is dead center. That laser dot also helps to set up your still camera.

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Maybe a silly question, but before I mount my ringsite, how do I determine my dominant eye?

Thanks,
Ross


If you have ever shot a gun wich eye did you use. The body usuly naturly uses the domanate eye. That is how I found out I was weard. I am right handed and left eye dominant. It makes shoting a rifel wered.
--------------------------------------------------------
Some one must go to the edge for others to be able to find it. But if you go be sure you can make it back.

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this is just one of the problems with conventunal sights.


As opposed to?


As oposed to a heads up diplay or any other display that shows you what the camera is recording.
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Some one must go to the edge for others to be able to find it. But if you go be sure you can make it back.

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Speaking of which, what's going to be the price of those?


If you click on the picture on my home page it will take you to the price and other info. The price is $1,095. I'm tring to get the price down but because it is so high I can't bye in volume so I don't see it happning any time soon.

rredman do I know you?
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Some one must go to the edge for others to be able to find it. But if you go be sure you can make it back.

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Which takes me back to my original point when I wrote my trifling monograph on camera sights -- HUDs are just too expensive right now.



Sorry I had no idea that you knew anything about HUD's. "Camera flyers can use a number of types of sights. From the least accurate and least expensive to the most accurate and most expensive they are;

Dot on goggles (grease pencil or paper reinforcement)
Ring w/ optics (piece of PCV or old ring sight w/ optics knocked out)
Lollypop w/ dot (piece of plastic w/ dot in center)
Newton Cross (polarizer, stressed plastic, polarizer)
Concentric Ring (glass, polarizer, calcite, polarizer, glass)" says nothing about the HUD being the most expensive nor the most acurate. I asume you are talking about the E I sent you to let you know that HUD's were avalible for skydiving as I didn't know you knew that they were.
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Some one must go to the edge for others to be able to find it. But if you go be sure you can make it back.

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Second graf, sentance one and two:
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Ideally, you'd want to see the exact same image for framing as you would of what's being shot by the camera. Unfortunately, a heads-up display that can superimpose the camera image onto your goggles is just not an economically practical solution.


I acknowledge their existance and rule them out . . . as being impractical at the time of writing.
quade -
The World's Most Boring Skydiver

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Sorry to run your post off topic freefalle, this will be my last post off topic.
Sorry Quade I miss read that I thought you said ergonomically
I will say this though. Some people are willing to pay $2k for a peace of nylon with some strings on it.
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Some one must go to the edge for others to be able to find it. But if you go be sure you can make it back.

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Again, that was my opinion at the time I wrote it. I had looked into them several years ago as an option and almost immediately blew them off because of the price issues.
IF you can get a working version in the same price range as a Brent Finley Concentric (let's call it $350) then I'd definitely want to look at it as an option, however, just because it exists doesn't mean that it would actually be a better solution.
For instance, it may be too confusing visually and may interfere with depth perception. I think you have a lot of testing to do first and . . . ya gotta get that price way down.
quade -
The World's Most Boring Skydiver

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Here's my take for sighting a sight.

First, some conceptual stuff. Like Paul said, imagine you have two lines coming out of your head, one from the sight which coincides with the centered pattern (cross or concentric) and one from the camera lens that coincides with the center of the frame.

Now, if you sight in on something close (like 15 feet away), the two lines cross at 15 feet, but nowhere else. You don't want to do this because it's confusing to try to remember:

1 - if the subject is closer than 15 feet, then the true center point is above where my sight points. and by how much?

2 - if the subject is further than 15 feet, then ... below where my sight ... etc.

What you want to do is get these two imaginary lines parallel by sighting in on something VERY far away.

Now, you have a fixed parallax error to deal with (see http://www.photomag.co.uk/Data/Glossary/Pages/Parallax%20error.htm).

That is... you know that these two lines are offset by the distance between your sight and your lens. Let's say your sight is 1 foot below your lens. When you are 2 feet away and want someone's nose in the center of the camera lens, you look 1 foot below their nose.

When they are 5 feet away, you look 1 foot below their nose.

When they are 10 feet away, you look 1 foot below... you get the idea.

When it's a 100 way... who cares... center the formation because 1 foot won't matter. BUT if you center your sight on a point on the wall and you are 5 feet from the wall, AND your sight is 1 foot from your lens...

At 10 feet, the sight is 1 foot off.
At 20 feet, the sight is 2 feet off.
At 50 feet, the sight is 5 feet off.
.
.
.

Brent

ps - Brad Hood told me that they tried HUD displays on one of the world team events when he worked for Tom Sanders and it was a big hassle and hard to deal with the lack of depth perception.
www.brentfinley.com
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Brent

ps - Brad Hood told me that they tried HUD displays on one of the world team events when he worked for Tom Sanders and it was a big hassle and hard to deal with the lack of depth perception.


I fully agree that it is very weird and takes some getting use to. But than again so do I. I don't realy find it a hssle
--------------------------------------------------------
Some one must go to the edge for others to be able to find it. But if you go be sure you can make it back.

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