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cestarmm

Riser/Ring size

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I have decided to order Vector 3 as my first container. How do I know how to select riser size? 19" vs. 21" vs. 23"??? Also Ring type size: large ring Type 8 (what is this), Mini ring with Type 17 (what is this)? Thanks for your help.




cestarmm... like folks up post said, you can do a search on DZ.com for more info... however, for the most part, this is a conversation you should have with whom ever you're buying your rig from and/or folks at The Relative Workshop (everyone else, yeah, I know Mr. Booth recently renamed it, but I can't recall the new name right now and most folks still call it that) when you order your Vector 3.

... but to give you a little info here... most folks choose 19" or 21" risers these days because, for one reason, most folks want to be able to reach their slider easily after opening to collapse it.

Type 8 & Type 17 refers to different types of webbing. While there are others, both are typically used for riser and/or chest strap material. In lay-terms, most jumpers refer to Type 8 risers as the "thick" or "fat" ones since Type 8 is about 2" wide. While Type 17 risers are usually referred to as the "skinny" ones.

Here's some info from Para gear on Type 8 & Type 17...

http://www.paragear.com/templates/base_template.asp?group=31#W9930

http://www.paragear.com/templates/base_template.asp?group=31#W9970

... but like we've said, for the most part, you want to talk to your local rigger or gear store or the manufacturer about the questions you have as it all depends...

Good Luck.

:)

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I'll be the one everyone flames and make recommendations:

For a first container, get Type 8 risers and large rings. You can get mini rings later if you decide to choose your gear based on fashion, but for now get the bigger, less fashionable option. The big three ring system just plain works better than the small system, and you won't be going so fast through the air that the parasitic drag of your risers will ruin your swoops, anyway.

I started out with big risers, and I liked them a lot. However, everyone else had the smaller ones, so I got smaller ones, too. The smaller ones looked like everyone else's, which was cool, but I kept getting my thumbnails bent back by the slider as it came down the lines over my mini risers. Ouch. But I looked good, and the reduced drag made a quarter inch of difference in what I thought was a swoop. I could also pull my collapsed slider behind my head like the cool people. That was good for another quarter inch, at least.

Riser length is more complicated. It determines how far away from the large ring the toggles and slider are when the parachute is open. However, too short risers have been implicated in some opening problems where lines from the main risers snag under the reserve container. So you want to make sure that whatever length of risers you choose make it to the bottom of the reserve container, which the mfg. should take care of for you. Note that within minutes, at least one person will reply to this post to tell you that no one has ever proved that short risers were the cause of any malfunction.

To choose your riser length without considering compatibility with the container, base it on your sleeve length. Tall fokker with 37 inch sleeves like me? Get the longest ones. Normal height? The ones in the middle. Short? Get shorter ones.

But the people who are selling you gear will be in a much better position to guide you through the process.

Brent

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www.jumpelvis.com

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The current fashion includes one inch wide risers (made of Type 17 webbing) and mini-rings (RW8).

You might hear rumors about mini-risers breaking, but that only refers to risers made before the 1993 or 1998 pattern.
Yes, tolerances are tighter on mini-risers, but modern mini-risers are stronger than the human body.
IOW if you open hard enough to break a modern mini-riser, you are:
A - a terrible packer
B- in so much pain (dislocated shoulder, pelvis, detached aorta, etc.) that you will wish you had died.

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Why don't you buy some good used equipment from a reliable source, so that you can do most of your bad landings on something that will not depreciate so much when you get dragged across a runway. B|
Not trying to wish you bad luck, just going by statistics.;)

Then you can spend the money that's burning your pocket on jumps to actually become good rather than just looking good.

Obviously this is not an answer to your question, just an unsolicited, well-meaning comment.

Kevin
_____________________________________
Dude, you are so awesome...
Can I be on your ash jump ?

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The current fashion includes one inch wide risers (made of Type 17 webbing) and mini-rings (RW8).

You might hear rumors about mini-risers breaking, but that only refers to risers made before the 1993 or 1998 pattern.
Yes, tolerances are tighter on mini-risers, but modern mini-risers are stronger than the human body.
IOW if you open hard enough to break a modern mini-riser, you are:
A - a terrible packer
B- in so much pain (dislocated shoulder, pelvis, detached aorta, etc.) that you will wish you had died.



There have still been failures of small risers. 2 years ago one failed on a Vector III at my DZ. It was a very hard opening, fairly big guy. I can't say how many jumps were on them, or if they showed signs of wear that could have been spotted before the failure.

As you mention, the mini risers may be thought of as a force limiting device, and many will say that after 4-500 jumps they should be replaced. But if someone has a slammer opening, should that count for more than one jump? I like the idea of a force limiting device, but I think the device should have some reliable way of inspection to determine if there is life left in them. Also, a very light person would break a mini riser at a much higher G-load than someone heavy.

Some of the rig mfgs recommend the large rings for heavier jumpers, around 200+ pounds. However, that is widely ignored.
People are sick and tired of being told that ordinary and decent people are fed up in this country with being sick and tired. I’m certainly not, and I’m sick and tired of being told that I am

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For a first container, get Type 8 risers and large rings. You can get mini rings later if you decide to choose your gear based on fashion, but for now get the bigger, less fashionable option. The big three ring system just plain works better than the small system, and you won't be going so fast through the air that the parasitic drag of your risers will ruin your swoops, anyway.



Get small rings because most containers don't have large rings and you want compatability. As long as you have hard riser housings, cutaway forces are reasonable even under rapidly spinning ellipticals which you will not be jumping.

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Get small rings because most containers don't have large rings and you want compatability.


Just to clarify...
Harness & container - Get the large rings. When swapping out canopy's (demo'n or borrowing) you can put either style of riser "rings" on it. IF you get the small rings here, you can't jump a canopy with the large rings unless you change the risers.
Canopy - Get the small ones... good for either style of 3-ring .

I didn't make myself clear enough to my dealer... and wound up with mini-rings on my harness, and regret it. If I win the lottery, I'll be paying to have them changed.

My suggestion only, YMMV.:)

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