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alexey

How to bind curves

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Some hints - because I just cant make it good-looking :(
Binding tape trying to slide to the right (so right stitch line not connected to material) or, there are much wrinkles, or, top and bottom not equal ...

I found, that hot knifing edge one more time (after sewing two layers together) helps a little - as make edge stiffer and easier to sew...

May be try to glue it?

Anyone can add something?

Sorry for bad English
Lexa

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Some hints - because I just cant make it good-looking :(
Binding tape trying to slide to the right (so right stitch line not connected to material) or, there are much wrinkles, or, top and bottom not equal ...

I found, that hot knifing edge one more time (after sewing two layers together) helps a little - as make edge stiffer and easier to sew...
_______________________________________

I've found that hot-knifing all the layers after sewing, makes a 'ridge', that will cause the presser foot to keep pushing the material away, causing an un-even seam. Trying to feed the tape with a Para-Gear type tape feeder is tricky with inside curves. I've had success with inside curves by not using a feeder but, by folding the tape in half, lengthwise and just taking my time sewing it, while using my fingers to control the trim tape.
By the way! are you going to post pics of your rig, when you finish it?B|


Chuck

May be try to glue it?

Anyone can add something?

Sorry for bad English

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Use your left hand to control the material,middle finger holding what would be the center of the circle. DO NOT try to push the fabric into the binder too early, thinking you will "catch" more fabric. You only succeed in having the fabric move away from the needles sooner ,missing the right stitchline.Think of putting the cut edge in position at the center of the presser foot .Inside curves need to be straightened out as they enter the cheap binders, less so with right angle binders. Hope this helps.

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No advise - no rig - nothing to show :)


__________________________________________

Oh, o.k. I mis-understood. From your various posts, I thought maybe, you were making a harness-container. Harness-container mfgr's, use about a $400.00 (U.S.) trim tape applicator for their machines, that can get the trim tape in some odd places.


Chuck

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No, just repair now...


____________________________________

Ah! I understand, now. Repairs, can be harder than making something from scratch.
I think, one of the most troublesome, was (long tme ago) 'just' replacing Velcro on the riser covers of a Vector-1. For some reason, that gave me fits![:/]B|


Chuck

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When doing outside corners/curves I loosen the binder slightly (so it is not rigidly fixed to the table) so I can push the binder somewhat to my left while keeping the material pushed to the inside of the folded tape. This always seems to work for me.
As an alternative, you buy me a ticket, provide the food and I'll come over and teach you how to do it. No wages necessary. Yes??????

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Some hints - because I just cant make it good-looking :(
Binding tape trying to slide to the right (so right stitch line not connected to material) or, there are much wrinkles, or, top and bottom not equal ...

I found, that hot knifing edge one more time (after sewing two layers together) helps a little - as make edge stiffer and easier to sew...

May be try to glue it?

Anyone can add something?

Sorry for bad English






In a word, DRAG!!!! When binding thick material, inside or outside curves you MUST have drag on the tape, lots of drag. This is acomplished by pinching your RIGHT thumb and forefinger around the tape as it enters the tape folder. Without drag the tape will refuse to follow a contour and will want to travel in a straight line evidenced by the tape rolling under and the inside stitch line sewing off the tape. You will want to use your left hand to manipulate the work. Slow down when doing curves it allows for more control of the tape/ work. Drag on the tape will also resolve the tape pucker. The cheap "paraGear" folders are just fine, all it takes is practice, shit I built over 2000 rigs with them. You DON'T need an expensive folder to do quality work, you DO need LOTS of practice in order to be a good binder. It can take years and thousands of edges taped to make a highly skilled binder. When manufacturers get someone like that they will usualy go out of their way to keep them.

Mick.

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Shorten up the stitch length.
The more stitches per inch you have in difficult corners/curves, the more likely you are to sew through all layers of fabric and binding tape.
An yes - like riggermick said - binding is an art form only mastered by a few of us.

... and only on my best days ....

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