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NickDG

Winter Bike Project . . .

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Nina's rather flat spring seat was good on the bumps but I was hanging on for dear life when getting on the throttle. So I decided to buy another seat with some "kick up" in the back to hold me in place. Then I saw the prices which were between 200 and 300 dollars! So instead I took apart the 30 dollar seat I had and just bent up the back. I also moved the spring position a bit forward. I just tried it out (man, it's really windy in So Cal today) and now it's perfect!

It doesn't look as good overall as the slammed seat I had on Nina, but it's not too bad, and it's quite comfortable.

NickD :)

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Kick up looks good..

I built the seat for my wifes bike,(and mine, different story) just usiing a grinder and my welder, ( didn't have a bender at the time) pan, cost...0 (scrap) upolstery, 45 bucks , and works damned fine, (The same saet was on my honda chop for many many years..
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v400/onekick/DSCF2052.jpg

No sliding up the fender, and that small amount of back rest, does wonders..

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Got any 550 cord?

Today the side stand spring broke (I'm kind of rough on it, turning too tight for the bike) and I always keep a small wade of 550 cord in the tbag on the sissy bar. Had to use 550 cord to tie the side stand up to the frame to get home.

Why not bailing wire? It rusts in the bag, 550 doesn't.
--"When I die, may I be surrounded by scattered chrome and burning gasoline."

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Me likey.

My first "hand made custom seat" was a Corbin I bought at a swap meet for $20. I drilled all the rivets out, disassembled it, changed the layout of the base, cut the foam with an electric turkey knife, re-attached the leather cover, and re-riveted it. Nice damn seat.
B|

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Got any 550 cord?

Today the side stand spring broke (I'm kind of rough on it, turning too tight for the bike) and I always keep a small wade of 550 cord in the tbag on the sissy bar. Had to use 550 cord to tie the side stand up to the frame to get home.

Why not bailing wire? It rusts in the bag, 550 doesn't.



switching all my bailing wire, (yes I actually carry a roll) For parachute cord.....

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Normiss, saw your comment over on YT, Locktite on what?

While I do use it on some things on Nina (owning to the fact she's a rigid) I've never used it on the clutch pushrod locking nut or the derby cover. And I've never seen either come loose.

NickD :)

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Thought for sure you would need some on the derby cover.
Being a rigid with belt drive, just seems the compensator can be rough on the primary drive train...but now having owned a rigid, WTF do I know?

My old FXR required anti-seize or loc-tite on damn near everything the way she vibrated.
B|

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:o:o:o

I have thought that the rubber mounts seem to carry more vibrations on some components than the hard tails I've seen.
My FXR was always trying to come off the motor mounts.



After 18 year of riding , my 42 did manage to loosen the mounts, (without me catching it):$ Lucky for me, I was out dirtbiking it, (yes) down the canal from the Perris DZ to Canyon lake , (should have seen the faces of other riders as I went by), I hit a rock breaking my frame....if those bolts had been tight, i'd have also broken my case's .....:o what are the ods that loose bolts would happen at a good time?

PS, I rode it back to San Diego, with a broken frame..

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after the frame broke, it snapped the top motor mount..
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v400/onekick/Bikes/004-2.jpg

break caused by riding like a crazy person...:$B|

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v400/onekick/Bikes/005-2.jpg

which also broke the trannie mounts...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v400/onekick/Bikes/010-2.jpg

Down to this, and back up in less than 3 days..
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v400/onekick/Bikes/014-2.jpg

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>>just seems the compensator can be rough on the primary drive train
Dry and open belt drives (like Nina's) don't use a compensator on the front motor pulley like stock Harleys. You only need that if you're running a chain in the primary (instead of a belt) as the compensator smooths out the slack/no slack jerkiness in the chain. (And makes you feel like a better rider than you really are, LOL!)

NickD :)

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Battery Hell . . .

One constant problem I've been having with Nina is starting up after she's sat overnight. She turns over okay but just won't fire. I spent hours looking over my wiring and everything there seems fine. I didn't suspect the battery, at first, because overnight I have it on a trickle charger, but eventually it dawned on me, it must be the battery. Once started it'll restart all day long, just never after sitting overnight.

The problem stems from instead of doing a lot of extra fab work I went with a battery that would fit in the available space I had behind the transmission. And it turns out now it's just too small at 230 CCAs (Cold Cranking Amps.)

This is the first Harley I've owned without a magneto and I didn't think that through enough. In Nina's case the battery not only has to turn over the motor it has to supply the initial punch to fire the coil (what a magneto used to do on it's own.)

So I've ordered a new battery with 350 CCAs but it's a larger battery so it's going to take some hacking and welding to get it situated. I could build a tray and mount it under the transmission, but Nina sits really low already so things like speed bumps kinda rules that out.

It's looks like I'll have to cut out Nina's lower fender support so I can mount the battery a bit deeper in the frame. But being the shin bone is connected to the thigh bone this begins a cascade of modifications to everything else in that area.

Man, it never ends . . . LOL!

NickD :)

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I've been buying mine from Batteries Plus.
Full AGM - glass mat, more CCA's than most others, less expensive than the bar and shield brand, smaller, and fully sealed - no vents, no leaks.
Used them on a 110 stroker with compression relief valves and a 103 without.

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