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  • AAD
    MarS Parachute AAD

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  1. Have the risers been changed on the set-up? Has someone else jumped the canopy and reported the same issue?
  2. The REI house brand for camping/hiking is great and can be found on sale some times. You may want to consider keeping the temp logbook until you finish AFF so you have a designated student logbook. If money is no issue, new gear all day everyday. For most people money is limited and therefore majority tends to go used. However, as a new jumper I wanted my gear really good, in order to allow me focusing on my skills. They will wear out faster than you like... I use an android app called Spot Assist (bought the full version), I firmly believe this app is a game changer. Ask your instructor, if they are willing to work with you with the app. My advice: Stick with skydiving, the videos look you are doing a fantastic job. Your instructors seem very solid and will guide you through AFF. Trust in your instructors and you will a great skydiver.
  3. I think it depends on your budget. If you think about putting down $6k for a rig, why not get a cheap used rig for $4k and put $2k in the tunnel?
  4. When did they go under? I still have my Alter and still love it.
  5. At what wingloading do you think it had the best flare? Flare gets better the higher the WL goes, as teh forward speeds goes up and flare transforms forward speed into upward speed. However due to the timing of the flare, more speed means your room for error gets smaller. I found the 230 had too much toggle pressure and could make flaring all the way hard (depending on brake length setting). The 150 is wicked fast and not for the faint of hearted. The 170 brings the risk that too much flare on a straight in will lift you up. The 190 (WL 1.3) is what I would consider the best compromise. You can get speed with a 90 degree double FR turn, you can land softly from slow flight, or go in straight and safe. Please note this is in regard to a DZ altitude of ~1k feet over MSL
  6. I don't like to pull below 4k. Here is why: If everything goes as planned canopy fully open at 3.3k. Stowing slider, opening chest strap, arranging in harness, open helmet, check steer ability -> 2.5k This leaves me only 1k to get into a solid landing pattern and slot in with traffic. Which means If I pull at 4k, and have any issue I got 1k to resolve it. 1k under no canopy ->5 seconds Spinning or otherwise issue -> 10 seconds Fully working canopy -> 30 seconds
  7. Downsizing is a very personal question. Why would you want to downsize? No one ever got hurt from having too much canopy. Do you want to have less Nylon to wrangle? Looking cool walking with a small rig? Something easy to sell/ buy? Do you want to go fast and swoop? Those question will determine what canopy and size you fly. The path to downsizing then will depend on your training (professional courses) and jump frequency, as well as location. For me personally, I used to jump 10 times EVERY weekend. Like going fast. Have good health insurance and a desk job I can do with broken legs. Therefore I was jumping a 190 at around jump 100 (same weight as you). And I would start buying a rig for a 190 right now, because I would hit the 100 jump mark before the year is over. A good rig with a 190 max for a big boy is not that fast to be found.
  8. I had Sabre 2 in 230, 190, 170 and 150. At exit weight of 230 - 270 The openings depend somewhat on the pack job. The 170, loaded at 1.6 will turn closed end cells in a very fast spiral. I usually can't wait for them to open by themselves. The 190 at 1.3 had the best openings, no end cell closures and on heading (it was in a rig for 190-230; loose but safe fit). I also had a 170 Sabre, VERY DIFFERENT than a Sabre 2.
  9. While I still learn as well here are a few things that helped me: Right Equipment: Sabre 2 (the newer the better) Flysight (and make sure you study the length of recovery arch based on winds and maneuver) Camera (to pair with flysight data) Log-Book write down every detail in order to work with the above Digital Altimeter Right approach: Do Hop'N'Pops and pull out the door or high pulls practice everything up high (90's, different directions, time holding fronts, etc...) Say out loud what you are doing as you might not be able to see it on the video Be SUPER conservative when you try new things on landing (aka close to the ground) Get a coach, or qualified jumper watch you from time to time, take feedback and be thankful for it Most importantly, always have a plan B, be ready to bail. better to bail if you don't need to, rather than needed to bail and did not to.
  10. I got my alter and it is great...
  11. Based on your information your exit weight is 210lbs, correct? A 170 puts you at 1.24; 150 at 1.40 and 135 at 1.56. If you get a new rig that holds a 170 tight, it will allow going down to a 135 most likely. Hence, if you got the money get a new rig. There is a good chance you will never jump anything smaller than a 135 (as ~1.6 is a solid loading for non-swoopers). Therefore buy the new rig, go all out, make sure you love it and plan on keeping it forever. Don't worry about going smaller than 170 or not, only time will tell what WL/canopy you are comfy at. Not to mention that a 135 Pilot and a 135 Katana fly very different.
  12. You do 270's on a crossfire 3 at under 400 jumps? No I don't. 90s only right now. I said, I'd move to a smaller canopy when I mastered 270s on it. Long road out right now. I assume you have a dedicated swoop coach you are working with?
  13. You do 270's on a crossfire 3 at under 400 jumps?
  14. and then practice some more. Google for the youtube video on packing from PD and follow them in detail
  15. Every winter when I pack ind ry air, my nail beds on my fingers get bloody from packing stows where the rubber band slides over my finger....