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It helps to put a weight on the risers to prevent them from twisting as you do the line continuity check. Make sure the risers are in the correct orientation first. After that, here's the method I was taught: Lay the canopy on the floor tail up, just as if you were going to pro pack it. Find the warning label and trace the tail to either control line. Follow the line to the riser. Verify that it passes through the correct slider grommet and guide ring without going under any other lines. Put the control line on your shoulder and behind your neck to keep it out of the way. Follow the stabilizer down to the first C-D cascade. Put that line between your thumb and index fingers in the hand closest to the container. Pick up the D line attachment point and follow the reinforcement tape along the bottom skin to the next D line. Put that C-D cascade between your index finger and your middle finger. The next cascade goes between the middle and ring fingers, then ring and pinky. If you have a 9-cell, put the first line on your wrist or just hold the last cascade in your other hand. While maintaining the lines in the correct order in your hand, walk toward the container. Verify that they pass through the same grommet as your first control line, do not cross any other lines, and that their order on the rear riser is the same as in your hand. This is very easy to see with your hand a few inches from the riser and applying some tension to the lines. Put the C-D lines behind your neck with the control line and repeat the same process for A-B cascades. When this side is done, put all the lines on the floor out of the way, find the warning label, and repeat for the other side. Also, some people will point out that only a rigger or someone under the supervision of a rigger is allowed to hook-up the lines to the risers.

Wanted to check if there are any new developments on this front. I'm about to assemble my Spectre 230 with SR-1 slinks. I requested these when I placed the order, but only the main version comes with the slink riser covers. Sent PD an email asking if they can send me the SRCs separately, but they said that the covers were only designed for Type-17 risers. Their recommendation was to jump without anything covering the slinks/risers at first. If I begin to notice any damage, then use either the silicone tubing or fabric covers for protection.

One of the coaches at my dropzone explained how to do leg turns for my 25th jump (had all other A license requirements done). She also mentioned that side slides are similar, only the arm and leg input is in the same direction. I only got to practice leg turns on that jump, but on subsequent jumps I started trying to figure out side slides on my own. I did this by initiating the leg motion and then shifting my arms to counter the turn, exactly as in your diagram. This method seemed more natural to me than dipping the arm. After a bit more practice, I had no problems maintaining my heading or introducing controlled turns into the slide, so I'm a fan of this method from the student's perspective.

That's another good point. When manuals say "pre-stretched" one can easily understand that to mean "before any stretching" instead of "a loop that has already been stretched." So the poor use of language continues... By the way, is the reserve anchor plate on the bottom of Vector 3 supposed to have a slight curve to it running the entire length (top to bottom) or is it supposed to be completely flat? I don't use the torque tool, and I doubt that I could have bent it just with my hands, but I haven't noticed it previously.

The current manual says 4 1/2 ±1/4" on page 16 and 4 1/2 ±1/2" on pages 30 & 38. I didn't even notice originally that the range is 1/4" in one place and 1/2" in the other . Where this is measured from is never stated, but I guess if you try to measure it from the grommet, you'll find out that it doesn't work. From your records, which container sizes required a loop of 5" or more? Is there a clear pattern of bigger containers requiring longer loops or are there other factors involved? Do you have any records specifically for a V358 by any chance?

Given that a container lock is a possible outcome of an AAD fire with a loop that's too long, you'd think that UPT would spend a bit more effort covering the subject. I finally managed to close my container using a 5 1/8" pre-stretched loop, which is outside the spec. I'll do some testing later this week and then repack everything, but I'm not sure what else I can do to get the loop under 5".

It would be nice to see how the old studies were done, but if we can't easily obtain the same products today, then I think it's time to repeat the experiment (thanks mark!). I assume it was never determined which chemical properties of the dixion lead made it safe(er) than the alternatives? That information would have been more useful than just a specific production recommendation.

So what is it for the Vector? The manual says 4 1/2" +/- 1/2" on pages 16 and 30 (paper version) for all container sizes. From the washer or the grommet? I'm having a really hard time packing my V358 with OP-235 (standard fit) for the first time with a 4 1/2" loop measured from the washer. I would call the Vector manual poor. Some information is missing altogether. Are we not supposed to attach the reserve pilot chute to the bridle...? I guess it's not that important because we're never told to do so or how to do it. We have to refer to a separate document for hesitator bungee installation instructions. Why? Look at the top photo on page 19 (skyhook). Think anyone might find it confusing why the magnified "To Pilot Chute" text is pointing toward the free bag? And then there are the spelling and grammar errors... I think UPT could have done a lot better.

For anyone else interested in doing this, I sent UPT an email asking about using Scotchgard on my Vector and was told that it's not recommended. Here's the actual response:

I'm guessing you don't have a digital altimeter that records your descent profile? Would be interesting to compare that with what the Vigil recorded. What I'd like to know is whether the burble generated at a lower speed (e.g. 50 mph) would be sufficient to trick the Vigil into reading a faster rate of descent as you transition from a mostly horizontal to a mostly vertical orientation. For example, in freefall at 120 mph Vigil says that the difference in altitude readings between belly-to-earth and upright/back-to-earth orientations is 260 ft. Let's say you take 3 seconds to make that transition, so as far as the Vigil is concerned you're traveling an extra 260 ft in addition to your actual loss of altitude of 528 ft over 3 seconds. Vigil will calculate your average speed as 179 mph during that transition. Something similar may be happening under the canopy if the AADs are firing as you exit the turn. The reason I'm picking 3 seconds as the transition time is that Vigil almost certainly has logic in its software that would filter out an instantaneous speed of 475 mph if the transition happens over 0.5 seconds. However, if the transition takes longer, Vigil can no longer be sure whether the speed increase is real or a result of leaving the burble. [edit] Darn, billvon beat me to this theory by a few years: http://www.dropzone.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=4359425#4359425

PRH and Poynter Vol. II recommend using Dixon #134 pencil (was Para Gear S7967) for marking canopy material. Unless it's called something else now, I can't find this type of pencil in the usual places. Is there a good alternative that I can buy at the local Jo-Ann or another arts & crafts store that's known to be safe on ZP fabric? Should something else be used when marking a fabric pull test? TS-108 recommends "approved ink or a black Sharpie," but I'm not sure about the latter being free of potentially harmful chemicals (as far as I know, most Sharpie ink is acidic). In general, what pencils or markers should be used on various line types and nylon tapes/webbing? I know that some riggers don't like seeing Sharpie on the reserve bridles, but is it considered safe for things like closing loops and different line materials? What do the manufacturers use for marking the reserve bridle?

Mark Procos from UPT talks a little bit about PDR vs OP differences in the following video. I actually recommend watching the whole thing along with the other videos from BPA 2015. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1khn7DY9OPk&feature=player_detailpage&list=PLMqCekDhfSja0GAZnz34dY2cyYZQNQFEb#t=1249

Keep in mind that out of tens of millions of jumps the issue has happened a few times. UPT did testing and added it as an alternative method to their manual. Skydivers do read the manuals right? It's now the primary method in the updated manual. I really wish they had a mailing list to let people know when new documents are published... It also looks like new Vectors will no longer have the hook velcro on the top main flap. I had to request this explicitly when ordering my V3 a few months ago. One of the instructors at DeWolf's course actually pointed out to me that routing the bridle from the bottom may cause problems if you happen to deploy from an upright position. You have to leave enough slack to allow the pin to rotate 180 degrees.

Why does she refuse to pack anything with an OP? Asking as I have an Op, and want to know more about the negative side of my kit. He A bit of searching turned up the following threads: Reserve characteristics? Reserve PC design: fabric to mesh ratio? Who's raised their CYPRES 2 firing altitude? The main issue seems to be compatibility with the Cypres. The Optimum has a longer snivel, which may be too long for the default firing altitude of ~750 ft. MEL, if you're reading this, is that the main reason why you refuse the pack the Optimum or would you not pack it in any configuration? I've ordered mine (235) before learning this and it should arrive any day now. I'll be using it with a Vigil 2+, which is set to fire when reading 1,100 ft (840 actual when belly to earth). Your thoughts on this combination?

I'm thinking it would not be in there for months, but I could be wrong. My machine may sit unused for months in a closet until the day that I need it. The OP said it, not me. I may have exaggerated a little. The ebay listing that Sean and MEL recommended ended up going for $150, which was higher than my bid, so I'll have to keep looking. I also found a guy who rebuilds these machines to like-new condition: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SINGER-401-SEWING-MACHINE-EXCEPTIONAL-/191464449057. I know it's not worth it, but it's still very tempting.

AC-105-2E 15.c.2? It's still making a distinction between main and reserve: "The same kind of repair may be classed as major or minor depending on whether it is done to an approved or unapproved component. For example, replacement of a suspension line on a reserve canopy is usually a major repair, while replacement of a suspension line on a main canopy is generally considered a minor repair (even if the identical technique is required for both replacements)."

Anyone think that this is a good deal: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Singer-401A-Sewing-Machine-/191496809506?

Bringing an old thread back to try and resolve some conflicting information. First, is there such a thing as a Dacron line with inner threads (guts)? Second, can anyone say for certain that Jump Shack is using Dacron rather than 1000 lbs Type V nylon? I ask because I called Jump Shack and asked for 1000 lbs flat braided Dacron, and even mentioned that I want the same material that they are using for their main closing loops. They sent me 1000 lbs Type V nylon for $0.83/foot, while it's $0.80/yard from ParaGear: http://www.paragear.com/skydiving/10000043/W9720/ So... are people actually using Dacron for main closing loops or are you using gutted 1000 lbs nylon?

Thanks for all the suggestions! I plan to stop by some local thrift stores this week. If I don't find anything, it looks like getting a Singer 401A from ebay will be my best bet. What's a reasonable price for one that claims to be already serviced? They seem to range from $100 to $400.

What are the maintenance requirements of the Sailrite as compared to something like the Pfaff 230? My machine may sit unused for months in a closet until the day that I need it. Would a newer sewing machine have an easier time with that or are they all about the same?

I did that at Dave DeWolf's rigger course a few weeks ago. Unfortunately, I don't have any place to put a "real" sewing machine, so I'm trying to find a good compromise for now.

Hi all, I'd like to get my first sewing machine that can do a straight and zig-zag stitch. I don't anticipate doing any container or harness repairs, and half the time it will probably be used for non-rigging work as the only sewing machine in the house. Space is a bit limited, so it will have to be one that I can keep in a box inside of a closet when not needed. From a bit of searching, it seems that Singer 401A is the typical recommendation. I found a few on ebay, but it's hard to figure out which ones are junk and which ones are in good working order. Sailrite LSZ-1 is another option, but it's much more expensive if new and I can't find any that are used. Finally, there are some cheaper home sewing machines, like the Janome HD 1000 or 3000, that would probably do 99% of what I need, assuming that they can handle E thread reliably. What would you recommend? Under $400 would be ideal, but I want something reliable. If the Singer requires much more maintenance to keep it running smoothly than one of the more modern alternatives, then I would probably go with the latter. Any first-hand experience with the Janome or similar machines? Is the Sailrite worth it? Thanks!

Sent UPT an email today and immediately got a reply saying that this was a mistake. They will send me a new set and I'm sending mine back.

OP doesn't specify what risers he has and I brought this thread back from 2013. I don't see why the riser type would change the loop orientation. If this was designed so that you grab the riser rather than the loop, then type 8 actually makes it more difficult and uncomfortable to do that. It's very stiff right where your hand would go. The loop, on the other hand, is soft and would distribute the force on the fingers much better if it was on the rear of the riser. I'm leaning more toward a manufacturing error. Will contact UPT when they are back from vacation and report back.

I just got a new Vector3. Type 8 risers with Louie loops. The loops are on the front side of the front risers: [inline louie_loop.jpg] Design change? UPT are closed until the 5th of January, so no one to ask there.