Canon Auto Focus

[cratermaker 0]

>THE REMOTE SWITCH YOU USE MUST MATCH THE CAMERA FOCUS MODE YOU WANT TO USE.<


I made this statement in another post about Canon Auto-focusing in One-Shot and AI Servo modes. The fact is these two camera focusing modes are what 99% of videographers use in freefall. Notice that when you select "Sports Mode", it places the camera in AI Servo focusing mode.

If you own a common, off the shelf, Canon remote switch(mouth, blow, or hand) for freefall use, it is wired for One-Shot mode. The switch has two posts. One post is used for the Common(ground) wire and the other post is used for the focus wire and shutter wire tied together. The focusing happens only when the shutter is fired. Hence, One-Shot operation.

If you own a Canon remote switch(mouth, blow, or hand), that has been wired for AI Servo, the two posts are wired differently. One post has the Common(ground) and the focus wire tied to the same post. The shutter wire is used on the other post. This allows the camera lens to focus until the camera body is told to fire. This is how AI Servo is suppose to work.

If you use a common One-Shot Canon remote switch with your camera body set to AI Servo, the camera lens will not be "pre-focusing" until you take the shot. The result is that your camera lens will be focusing in One-Shot mode. (And the camera body saying, "What the Hell?")

If you use a Canon remote switch wired for AI Servo with your camera body in One-Shot mode, the camera lens will be focusing all the time. Again, just the opposite of how it is suppose to work.(And again the camera body is saying, "What the Hell?")

If anyone finds that these are untrue statements, please write in. Join in this discussion. While I believe what I say is true, I could be wrong.

Cratermaker

[BMFin 0]

Theres a few things I dont quite agree with.1st off using the so called "one shot plug" with one shot mode will actually focus 1st and then lock there and fire only after that. Not focus and fire at the same time. Second thing is that using the "one shot plug" with AI servo isnt the same as using one shot mode, since the camera does continue tracking the AF during the burst of shots in AI servo but not in one shot where it locks on the 1st focus point.


Anyways, why make it so complicated ?

IMO its pretty simple.

1.In general there are two type of switches. Mono and stereo. Mono swich will cause the camera to focus constantly when the camera is on. (works only in AI servo mode) This is very basic stuff. IE conceptus offers both mono and stereo plugs to suit everyones needs. See here

2.Other thing is that the canon lineup has different AF modes. One shot focuses 1st, locks this focus point and after that fires the shutter. (keeping the same focus point) AI servo lets the focus keep tracking with the subject through out the series of shots.

Simple.

[BMFin 0]

Forgot to add that IMO stereo plug works as well with a lens that has fast AF. For example the USM motor in the 10-22 is fast enough to focus before the shutter opens even when I use AI servo with the stero plug. There is a short delay between the time when you press the switch and when the shutter opens even with a stereo plug + AI servo. The shutter doesnt open immedietly so if the AF is fast it has time to focus even for the 1st shot of the series.


However a lens like 50mm 1.8 has such a slow AF motor that it does benefit from the mono plug in together with AI servo The time between pressing the switch and when the shutter opens isnt enough for this lens to focus correctly for the 1st shot. By the time of second shot it should have already had enough time to focus.

[cratermaker 0]

BMFin, thanks for your thoughts. A good place to start.

[qoute] There's a few things I don't quite agree with.1st off using the so called "one shot plug" with one shot mode will actually focus 1st and then lock there and fire only after that.***
You are correct that it will first focus, then lock and then fire. How much time it takes varies. How far did the lens have move from the previous focus point to the new focus point, then lock, and then fire? When you are hold the camera body in your hands and compose your shot, it is just like freefall. But on the ground you have a two phase switch in the camera body. A little pressure and the body tell the lens to focus, meter, and lock the settings. A little more pressure and the body tell the shutter to fire. The normal One-Shot remote switch(or any switch we now use) is on or off. When you press your remote switch, two signals are sent at the same time, focus/lock and fire. So there is a delay from the time you press the remote switch until it fires. How much? Dunno. Too many variables such as; how far did the focus points have to move, how long is the lens actually taking time to focus, how fast does it meter the exposure setting, and I'm sure there's more. So for my purpose, I simply say it will focus and fire at the same time.

*** In general there are two types of switches. Mono and stereo.***
I cannot agree with this statement. Switches come in many types. Here are a few: spst, spdt, dpdt, and dpst. Most switches use for skydiving remote use are either spst or dpst. Simply an on off switch. Plugs come in mono, stereo, 4 conductor, etcetera. To say that they determines whether that makes them a One-Shot or AI Servo is false. How they are wired determines this.

*** Forgot to add that IMO stereo plug works as well with a lens that has fast AF.***
I'm only discussing AF modes and switches. Different lenses is a variable outside this arena. Skydivers generally use four types of lens, the one that came with the camera, the cheapest, the best they can afford, and the best available. I'm not going there.

So where are we? The only real disagreement I see, goes back to my original statement.
"The remote switch you use must match the camera focus mode you want to use."
Your replies indicates that you believe that a remote switch wired for One-Shot will work just as well one that is wired for AI Servo when the camera body is set for AI Servo. (Do you also believe the inverse to be true too?) I agree that after the first shot in camera AI Servo mode(with a normal remote switch One-Shot wired), the body and lens will keep focusing and metering as long as you hold the switch closed. But in-between these burst shots, any single shots(I don't rock and roll from exit to opening), you are back to the One-Shot switch operation.

I still feel that if I have my camera body and lens operate in the way each AF mode Canon suggests, I have a better chance of getting the shot I want, instead of the shot I delete. If the camera and lens has determined the proper focus and metering(AI Servo) well before I take the first shot, that shot will come quicker, and I feel, more accurately. Whether I use a burst or not.

Thank you for your input. But don't stop. I still want to hear more thoughts and ideas. I hope more cameramen will join in.

Cratermaker

[mnealtx 0]

You're both right, just in different ways -

If you have a mono plug, then focus will always be 'active' and the only 'control' you have is the shutter - if it's a stereo plug, you can activate shutter and focus separately.

In both cases, you're subject to the whims of Canon's autofocus algorithms. Using a shutter/aperture combo that gives you a good hyperfocal distance can help alleviate that problem.

Mike
I love you, Shannon and Jim.
POPS 9708 , SCR 14706

[BMFin 0]

Quote

In both cases, you're subject to the whims of Canon's autofocus algorithms. Using a shutter/aperture combo that gives you a good hyperfocal distance can help alleviate that problem.

Yeah, but then the photos are only reasonably sharp. AF will yield sharper results.

[mnealtx 0]

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In both cases, you're subject to the whims of Canon's autofocus algorithms. Using a shutter/aperture combo that gives you a good hyperfocal distance can help alleviate that problem.

Yeah, but then the photos are only reasonably sharp. AF will yield sharper results.

Perhaps, and perhaps not....but I can guarantee you won't have the "missed focus" shots using a hyperfocal technique.

Mike
I love you, Shannon and Jim.
POPS 9708 , SCR 14706

[cratermaker 0]

***In both cases, you're subject to the whims of Canon's autofocus algorithms.***

Now we're getting somewhere. If this is true. If the whims were taken into account, perhaps that is why Canon uses two other modes of auto focus beside One-Shot. One-Shot focuses, meters exposure, and locks these settings before it fires. If you fire a burst, no updates on focus or exposure settings are used, it's locked. AI Servo uses a constant focus and exposure setting updates from the get go. AI Focus starts out One-Shot and goes to AI Servo if it detects subject movement. But even in this mode, it is mentioned as detecting movement before the shutter is told to fire. But it updates info in bursts. Funny that in the manual it says that in AI Focus "the camera switches to AI Servo AF and focuses continuously", not as in AI Servo, which "the focus and exposure setting will be adjusted continuously". I wonder why AI Focus leaves out exposure setting adjustments?

This train of thought about "the whims of Canon's autofocus algorithms" seems to emphasizes my belief that the remote switch must match the AF mode you want to use. Why hinder what Canon is trying to give us.

As far as manual setting vs. auto setting, that's out side of this discussion arena. But it sure would make a good one on it's own. The good old days with my Nikon 2000, 24 mm F1.28 lens, and Sony V-101. Nah, I won't go there either.

Cratermaker

[bomb420 1]

Just to add slightly to this conversation. I use a "focus mode selection switch" before the bite switch like cratermaker describes. In one mode its a focus and fire and in the other mode its continuous focus. By having my camera constantly focus in freefall, I generally don't get any "out of focus" pictures on my 50D anymore. Before, with the focus and fire (shutter lead connected to focus lead), I would always get a few out of focus shots on each jump. I stole the constant focusing idea from Steve Curtis's setup and refined it with a switch. Since then I have noticed other people are working on the same concept.

HYPOXIC

[BMFin 0]

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I stole the constant focusing idea from Steve Curtis's setup and refined it with a switch. Since then I have noticed other people are working on the same concept.

In fact its not really a new concept. For example conceptus has been offering both mono and stereo type of switches since they started their business..

[cratermaker 0]

*** Using a shutter/aperture combo that gives you a good hyperfocal distance can help alleviate that problem. ***

Did you notice this? A year or more ago I was playing with my Canon XTi off the helmet. I noticed that the DoF scale on my lens did not seem to match the true DoF I was shooting. Puzzled, I went to a few websites for some info. One of them was the site mentioned above. On this site, they have an On-line DoF Table. Here I found the answer to the difference. It's called the "circle of confusion". Such a perfect term for skydivers! As a lot of us use full frame lenses on our digital XT and non 5D cameras. The full frame lenses have the DoF scale set for full frame CoC(circle of confusion), about 0.03mm. The CoC for Canon XT and 10D-50D is about 0.019mm. The digital camera lens focal length multiplier also applies to the CoC as well as the focal length of the lens. Not a great deal of difference, but enough to be noticed. You may want to note this for future reference. It's always something. I got involved anyway.

Cratermaker

[mnealtx 0]

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*** Using a shutter/aperture combo that gives you a good hyperfocal distance can help alleviate that problem. ***

Did you notice this? A year or more ago I was playing with my Canon XTi off the helmet. I noticed that the DoF scale on my lens did not seem to match the true DoF I was shooting. Puzzled, I went to a few websites for some info. One of them was the site mentioned above. On this site, they have an On-line DoF Table. Here I found the answer to the difference. It's called the "circle of confusion". Such a perfect term for skydivers! As a lot of us use full frame lenses on our digital XT and non 5D cameras. The full frame lenses have the DoF scale set for full frame CoC(circle of confusion), about 0.03mm. The CoC for Canon XT and 10D-50D is about 0.019mm. The digital camera lens focal length multiplier also applies to the CoC as well as the focal length of the lens. Not a great deal of difference, but enough to be noticed. You may want to note this for future reference. It's always something. I got involved anyway.

Cratermaker

I remember reading about the COF on the site, but I didn't really pore over it, no - interesting data, though!!

Mike
I love you, Shannon and Jim.
POPS 9708 , SCR 14706

[PhreeZone 15]

To futher muddy the waters with Circle of Confusion issues Nikon and Canon use different crop factors in their camera bodies so you have to look it up for each camera to make sure you are using the right scale. Canon tends to use either 1.3 or 1.6 crop sensors and Nikon is more of a 1.5. Full frame sensor bodies let you use the scale on the lens.

Then again if you use EF-S mounted lens they tend to be adjusted for the 1.6 crop sensors and the scale is correct for those again.

Yesterday is history
And tomorrow is a mystery

Parachutemanuals.com

[cratermaker 0]

Thanks bomb420. My point exactly. While your Focus Selector Switch(and mine) eliminates the need for two different camera remote switches. the point still is, the remote switch you use must match the AF mode you want to use. The great thing about the FSS is that you only need one remote switch to do both jobs. When the camera body is in AI Servo, you can also place the FSS in One-Shot mode to stop the auto-focusing until you are ready to jump. You can't do this with just the remote switch by itself. Another bonus with the FSS is that you only need two remote switches. One for use and one for a spare. Without the FSS, I'd have four remote switches. One for each use and a spare for each. You do keep a spare remote switch in your kit don't you?

I'm friends with a very, very well known videographer. He shoots a Canon 5D Mk II for stills. He also uses an AI Servo remote switch(after all, he is a true professional photographer). What scares me is that his still camera setups can make it impossible to turn off the camera with the on/off switch to stop the auto-focusing sometimes. I've seen him turn on the camera and mount it on his helmet. Then he opens the memory card door to stop the auto-focus. Closing the door returns the camera to full operation. I'm sorry, but I see all kinds of bad things that could happen doing this for every still camera jump he makes. Digital cameras really don't like dust and moisture. I'm not going to open up my camera body's card door and invite either in. Another good reason for a FSS.

Whether we talk AF modes, remote switches, or FSS, I'm seeing some good response to this discussion. Please, keep writing in. Nothing is ever set in stone. Let's turn over a few rocks.

Cratermaker

[BMFin 0]

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Perhaps, and perhaps not....but I can guarantee you won't have the "missed focus" shots using a hyperfocal technique.

Not even if you are shooting 85mm at f/1.2 for example ?

[cratermaker 0]

BMFin, you should really start a new discussion on manual vs. auto settings and lenses. Things are getting really extreme here on this subject. It would be a really good place to develop the thoughts you are generating. One other comment.

You keep stating mono plugs are AI Servo and stereo plugs are One-Shot. You are going to eventually have a bad experience when you plug in a stereo plug and get AI Servo as a result. Conceptus makes a fine switch. But they aren't the only ones out there. Some use only stereo plugs and wire the switch for One-Shot or AI Servo. And I'm one of them. I do use different colors of heatshrink to tell them apart visually. I prefer to differentiate the two switch types as One-Shot or AF Servo, not mono and stereo. Less confusing that way.

Also, bomb420 is talking about a focus selector switch, not a remote switch. Two entirely different animals. The biggest dif is that the FSS does not control the shutter operation, only the focus operation between the two modes. You have to use two different remote switches to achieve the same results.

Cratermaker

[BMFin 0]

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You keep stating mono plugs are AI Servo and stereo plugs are One-Shot.

Oh, Im not saying that. "AI servo" and "one shot" are AF-programs developed by Canon. The switches we use have nothing to do with those names.

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Also, bomb420 is talking about a focus selector switch, not a remote switch. Two entirely different animals. The biggest dif is that the FSS does not control the shutter operation, only the focus operation between the two modes. You have to use two different remote switches to achieve the same results.

I totally undestand the function of the switch. I agree its a good idea to have when using a mono type of switch that utilizes constant focusing. Its easier since you dont have to turn on the camera and open the memorycard lid to stop focusing before exit. Im sure it makes it more convinient..

[mnealtx 0]

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Perhaps, and perhaps not....but I can guarantee you won't have the "missed focus" shots using a hyperfocal technique.

Not even if you are shooting 85mm at f/1.2 for example ?

You go right ahead and shoot a skydive with those settings, just make sure you post the pics so we can all see them - seeing as how the depth of field is less than an inch with those settings at 5 feet, you'd better pray the AF locks on the bridge of their nose and not the tip of it, or you're fucked.

Mike
I love you, Shannon and Jim.
POPS 9708 , SCR 14706

[cratermaker 0]

Com'on now guys. Let's play nice. BMFin may be under a little stress. It could be that his brand new still camera may have arrived. I'm sure he's ready to mount his 85mm F1.2 lens, get to the DZ and shoot some tandems. You would be too. And
yes, I too, would like to see him post some shots of his 85 mm lens. Set to 1.2 F stop exposue. In manual settings. And don't forget the burst shots on exit/openings. He may have a digital lens instead of a full frame lens. That could make all the difference in the DoF. I would also like to see some comparison photos shot with AF settings. In AI Servo focusing mode. And One-Shot focusing mode if possible. But he could be having trouble finding a mono switch for his new Canon 10D. Or a stereo
switch for that matter. His camera mounting may not require a FSS. So that may not be a factor.

Or it could be something else entirely. Who Knows?

How about some fresh voices, Some fresh ideas/thoughts. I'd settle for a good question on the title/subject of this disscussion.

If I change the title of this discussion to "For optimum results, the remote switch you use SHOULD match the focus mode you want to use.", would that spark anyone's mind?

There seems to be a problem giving the two types of remote switch wiring a name acceptabe to most videographers. How about CF and FF. Constant Foucus and Focus/Fire. Or CMF and FMF. Constant Meter/Focus and Focus/Meter Fire. What do you think?

I'm sure some of you jump your Canon still camera in Sports Mode. I've seen it. Did you know that Sports mode selects AI Servo as it's focusing/meter mode? Which type of remote switch do you use? Focus and ground or focus and shutter? Does
the wiring of your remote switch match the AF mode setting? How are your results?

For those of you that personally select your focusing mode from the camera's menu, is your remote switch matched to it? If not, have you tried a remote switch wired for the focusing mode you selected? How are your results?

Are there anymore of you out there that have made or experimented with some form of a device that allows you to switch between the two types of wiring? Some kind of FSS. Do you want to talk about it? How are your results?

How many believe that it makes no difference which type of remote switch wiring you use with your AF focusing mode? Any exceptions? How are your results?

I'm not trying to change anyone's mind, But my mind may be changed. Or even better, expanded. To me, that is a good thing. How are your results?

Cratermaker

[velvetjo 0]

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Forgot to add that IMO stereo plug works as well with a lens that has fast AF. For example the USM motor in the 10-22 is fast enough to focus before the shutter opens even when I use AI servo with the stero plug. There is a short delay between the time when you press the switch and when the shutter opens even with a stereo plug + AI servo. The shutter doesnt open immedietly so if the AF is fast it has time to focus even for the 1st shot of the series.


However a lens like 50mm 1.8 has such a slow AF motor that it does benefit from the mono plug in together with AI servo The time between pressing the switch and when the shutter opens isnt enough for this lens to focus correctly for the 1st shot. By the time of second shot it should have already had enough time to focus.

Crater, nothing against the concept of FSS's, if that's what works for you. Just be aware that changing other variables (like the lens) may make the switch less of a factor in the overall system. The information above is a good point that shouldn't be ignored. The lens is an integral part of the camera system, and a USM AF lens like the Canon 10-22mm can make a difference. Simply dismissing lenses from the conversation doesn't make them any less of a factor.

My personal experience: a tongue switch with a stereo plug (not constant focusing) on a Rebel XTi with a Canon 10-22mm lens (AF + AI Servo mode) is plenty fast enough to take very sharp images in burst or single mode. Combine that with less battery drain due to no constant focusing, and it's a solution that works fine for my purposes.

What's optimum for a still camera switch? Not sure, since each of us likely has different "best" parameters to work toward. Can you give us any hard data from your setup that shows specific and measurable differences? That would help me understand where your version of "best" is, and might redefine mine.

Thanks,

Lance

[cratermaker 0]

*** Just be aware that changing other variables (like the lens) may make the switch less of a factor in the overall system. ***

velvet, there's your answer. As I keep saying, leave this talk about lenses out. I'm sure you have a great lens. I don't believe I've seen a negative review. It's just that I'm still trying to lay a foundation. Even talk about the FSS is moving beyond the original thought. It's saving grace is that also applies to the Auto Focus discussion. If you read previous posts, you will see that the lens has already been accepted as a variable. Besides, what about those of us that do not own a Canon 10-22mm lens. Most do not. They may want to get the most out of their Sigma 15mm or Canon 15mm, or one of the many, many other lens used on a freefall camera system. I could be wrong, but I feel the average videographer out there will spend $50.00 on a different remote switch to try and improve their camera system performance before they will spend $500.00 on your Canon 10-22mm lens. But once again, I could be wrong.

*** My personal experience: a tongue switch with a stereo plug (not constant focusing) on a Rebel XTi with a Canon 10-22mm lens (AF + AI Servo mode) is plenty fast enough to take very sharp images in burst or single mode. Combine that with less battery drain due to no constant focusing, and it's a solution that works fine for my purposes.

Thank you for your description of your still camera set up. This is what I'm looking for. While you say that the type of a remote switch may make less of a difference factor in the overall system(compared to your Canon 10-22 lens), you do concede the type of remote switch COULD be a factor. You seem to be very happy with your results. That is all anyone could ask for.

If you are looking for my "hard data", it's right in front of you. Reread the posts here. There's my data. If you desire "specific and measurable differences", mine are going to be very similar to your description of your lens focusing speed as "is plenty fast enough". It is going to be subjective. Sorry.

OK, here's my "optimum still camera switch" One that has a failure rate of less than 1 in 10,000 SKYDIVER USES, comes in all versions(bite, tongue, hand, and blow), has plugs for all DSLR cameras, can be wired for constant focus or/and focus/fire, and looks pretty.

Finally, let me repeat for you, I am not trying to change anyone's mind. Only you can do that. What my "best is" is just that, MINE. You are free to decide what your "best is" That will make it YOURS.

Cratermaker

[PhreeZone 15]

The issue is that you can't leave lenses out of the discussion on metering/focusing. The lens is as much a part of the conversation as the body is. If you have a really slow focusing lens then you need to have it set to focus constantly or else it just takes too long to focus, meter and then shoot the photo. Faster focusing lenses make the need to constantly focus much less pronounced.

Sigma/Canon 15 have fairly fast focusing compared to the Kit 18-55 that many people including me are jumping. One the slower lens having the switch set up for constant focusing helps a lot to deliver accurate photos.

The other portion of the conversation that needs to be had is the metering part. With One shot it locks in the focus setting and metering and will retain those settings until the switch is released. This might not be bad unless you have a subject that is sliding around with the sun either coming into or out of the frame and it can cause the camera to over/under expose depending on the situation. AI Servo on the other hand will re-meter on each shutter activation and this can help to save some of those same shots that otherwise would have been blown.


The second part of this conversation that needs to be had is what metering settings everyone is using, Spot, evaluative, partial or center weighted. Depending on that setting will impact how the metering info is carried from shot to shot and if it really will have an impact on how the end shot turns out. Some configurations it really will not matter if the metering data is the same from shot to shot, other configurations it will result in a lot of blown shots.

If you want to go off on even more of a tangent we can bring up how the AF settings need to be configured if you are using a flash and are wanting to use the flash to illuminate the subject with the focus grid for focusing prior to firing since it only works in certain settings.




Here is a nice blurb right from Canon on how all this stuff really works:

Hi, Doug:

The EOS 40D is consistent with other EOS Digital SLRs in terms of its evaluative metering algorithms, so what I'm about to say here applies just as well to other models like the 50D and the 5d Mark II, etc.

First, Evaluative metering is always linked to a single focusing point. This is true even when multiple focusing points light up simultaneously, as might be the case with a large subject when the camera is set for the combination of One-Shot AF or AI Focus AF and Automatic Focusing Point Selection. The active focusing points do not light up when the camera is set for the combination of AI Servo AF and Automatic Focusing Point Selection and the camera is focusing.

Speaking about One-Shot AF and AI Focus AF with stationary subjects: If only one focusing point lights up, then that one is the active focusing point. If more than one light up, it means that those points are all within the depth of focus as determined by the AF system, but the camera's AF detection algorithm selects the metering segment surrounding one of those points as the primary segment for the evaluative exposure measurement. In such a case, the user cannot be certain which focusing point the camera has chosen to meter for exposure. However, in many cases, it's possible to take a preliminary test shot and review the histogram on the LCD screen to determine if there is any need for exposure compensation.

Speaking about AI Servo AF with Automatic Focusing Point Selection: In this case, the user is never certain about which focusing point is active because the focusing points do not light up while the camera is focusing. As in the case of One-Shot AF, it's sometimes possible to take a test shot and review the histogram on the LCD screen to determine if there is any need for exposure compensation.

Evaluative metering is at its best when photographing people, but it also works very well with a wide range of non-human subject matter. It may need some help from time to time in terms of exposure compensation, especially in situations where the primary metering segment is centered on subject matter that is particularly bright or dark.

I would also say that there are some situations where it might be best to take an exposure reading ahead of time and set the camera for manual exposure. This can help improve the consistency of exposure in burst mode shooting, compared to using an AE mode like Program, Shutter Priority or Aperture Priority.
__________________
Chuck Westfall
Technical Advisor/Professional Products Mktg. Div.
Consumer Imaging Group/Canon U.S.A., Inc.

Yesterday is history
And tomorrow is a mystery

Parachutemanuals.com

[cratermaker 0]

PhreeZone, thanks for you additional info on Nikon lens multiplier. I got away from Nikon after my Nikon 2000 and I am not currently up on Nikon's DSLRs. That is why I talking about Canon Auto Focus now. Do you jump a Nikon? Does Nikon have focus modes similar to the focus modes used by Canon? Is there a focus mode in Nikon that uses constant focusing and/or metering? Could this Canon Auto Focus discussion apply to Nikons too? Just wondering. Please, let me know your thoughts. Or anyone that uses a Nikon for skydiving.

I just read your new post. Excellent information. I completely agree that there are factors outside our discussion of focus modes and remote switches that makes a difference. We do need to be aware of them. For my purpose here, I starting with remote switches. You seem to agree that how the remote switch is wired can be a factor. And the two auto focus mode we have to choose from can really make a difference. Especially when due to the different lens available for us to use. As far as metering modes, yes that is a factor too. For some camera system applications it could be a big one. Or a small one. As far as flash factors, yea, that is another tangent entirely. Right now, lets lay the foundation and maybe even pour the floor. The walls, windows and roof can come later. They are in the blueprints after all.

Cratermaker

[mnealtx 0]

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I would also say that there are some situations where it might be best to take an exposure reading ahead of time and set the camera for manual exposure. This can help improve the consistency of exposure in burst mode shooting, compared to using an AE mode like Program, Shutter Priority or Aperture Priority.

Sunny 16, to the rescue!!

Mike
I love you, Shannon and Jim.
POPS 9708 , SCR 14706

[BMFin 0]

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You go right ahead and shoot a skydive with those settings, just make sure you post the pics so we can all see them - seeing as how the depth of field is less than an inch with those settings at 5 feet, you'd better pray the AF locks on the bridge of their nose and not the tip of it, or you're fucked.

I dont have a 85mm f/1.2 so I havent shot skydive with one. I have shot some with 50mm f/2.0 and I can show some of those. The DOF with this lens is also quite shallow and I dont think it is possible to use hyperfocal technique. AF is the only way to go IMO.