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mountainman

Fish-eye vs. Wide-Angle lenses

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what the difference is between Wide-angle and Fish-eye lenses



Fish eye just refers to the amount of distortion around the outside of the frame. Many people, me included, zoom in just a little to cut down on that effect and get rid of the vignetting. The Diamond .3 is the best of both worlds with a VERY wide field of view with no fish eye. Of course for $200 it better be "THE SHIT"

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Keep in mind the .3 will be way to wide for many purposes. If you get the .3 you will probably also want a .43 or .5 for doing different kinds of photography.

Of course if you're just going to be freeflying, then the .3 is great.

_Am
__

You put the fun in "funnel" - craichead.

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If you get the .3 you will probably also want a .43 or .5 for doing different kinds of photography.




Only problem with that would be your camera mount. The FOV is so wide on that .3 that you will have to have your camera mounted pretty far forward to keep your nose, goggles, etc out of the frame. I don't think you want to turn around and stick a "big" lens on there and have it hanging out twice as far as normal. Plus....why change out lenses when you can just zoom in a little.

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Clay, do you have any problems zooming all the way in with the Diamond? I read you can't zoom with it on there, and I can't figure out why. All the elements are internal on the camera's lens, why would the wide angle keep you from zooming in?

And I had some coaching video done with the .3, and it was all pretty much arms-reach. You gotta be REAL close with that thing. I'm looking forward to using it on inside RW video and inside FF formation video as well. My wife got me one for my birthday, it should be here in a couple of days!

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why change out lenses when you can just zoom in a little.



Clay,
If you zoom in very far with a wide angle lense the picture will get grainy. You can get away with some zooming in, but if you go very far at all and then play your video on a good tv you will notice a signifigant difference in picture quality. I have a Kenko .43 myself, and am considering buying a .5 for things like filming rw or any other shot I am trying to get without having to fly very close.


Skydive Radio

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If you zoom in on a wide angle lense you're going to start getting distorion... I can't really explain WHY, the physics of lenses is a bit beyond my education, but I know this from my former life as an amateur photographer.

_Am
__

You put the fun in "funnel" - craichead.

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Great information here guys.

I won't even be using this lens for skydiving for quite awhile. However, I think that when the time comes, I'll probably be doing freeflying more than anything.

So, with that in mind, the Diamond would be a good choice, right?

Thanks y'all.

:)
http://www.brandonandlaura.com

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So, with that in mind, the Diamond would be a good choice, right?



Again, it really depends what you want to use it for.

The .3 is a very, very, very wide angle lense. Yes, it is good for freeflying, and also taking video from inside an RW formation. That's about it.

Since you're buying the camera now, and won't start jumping it for a while, what will you use it for in the meantime? Will the .3 work for that as well?

_Am
__

You put the fun in "funnel" - craichead.

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If you zoom in very far with a wide angle lense the picture will get grainy



Very true but I think you can do SOME zooming without too much problem. One thing I just thought of though. With the lens being THAT wide you will have to stay VERY close to your subject. Even with my .43 anything over about 50 ft gets blurry and SMALL. Just food for thought.

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So, with that in mind, the Diamond would be a good choice, right?***

Thanks y'all.

:)



NO.

I have a .5 on my PC110. Sunday I flew camera on a FF 2 way with two really great fliers. We left the plane with me back on the rear float (Kingair) but with them linked they were hauling ass. I went head down to catch up and transitioned to sit at level while they were in a two hand Spock (one vertical, one sit, both with a hand on the other's head) I closed up to about 10 feet before they broke, but you would not have been able to see that they were in that dock as long if I had a wider lens. They pulled another couple of docks before break off, but I would have been really pissed if I didn't get that spock shot.

NOTHING in skydiving camera is a cool as having a past national champ ask you for a copy of your video. Well having him pay might be cooler, but I'll take a compliment for now.

I'd have missed that shot with a .3 .

Having said that, I've ordered one for when I'm inside a formation. That .3 is an arms-reach lens.

Start with a .5 or a .6. Otherwise everything will be teeny and you'll be really frustrated with your work for a long time.

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Thanks Deuce.

So, it sounds like when the time comes that I'm ready to start flying with a camera, I should use something that isn't a wide (Diamond) because since I won't be able to stay as close as I want, everything will be tiny. The "less wide-angle" lenses will give me a bit of leeway as far as how close I am.

Thanks again guys. Great thread with great info from all.

:)
http://www.brandonandlaura.com

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