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freefalle

wide angle lenses

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okay guys Im sorry to ask this, Ive looked in previous post and cant find the exact answer to this question.

Im looking to buy a good wide angle lens. I may even have to buy two to do what I want. I need one for shooting RW and tandems and such. I also would like one for shooting closer freefly jumps.

What size lenses are commonly used for each of these types of jumps and who makes a good lens. I frequently see Keneko (spelling) lenses around the DZ are they worth buying? Thanks alot for all your help Ive learned alot in here!

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The stock Sony 0.6 works well for normal RW. To tell the truth, I push it in slightly so that it more closely matches what I'll get top-to-bottom with my 28mm still lens. I'll put a 0.42 on the back-up camera when I go to Nationals and fly them both.

0.45 to 0.42 seems about right for freefly, but I have limited/practically no experience with that.

A lot of folks are touting the new 0.3 for freefly, but you're going to have to be right in the middle of things unless you wanna see ant-sized freeflyers on the screen.

Lastly, different lenses from different manufacturers give different results. A 0.45 is not always the same 0.45 from one manufacturer to the next. This can also be caused by step-up rings if you need those to adapt the lens to your camera.
quade -
The World's Most Boring Skydiver

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I've got a Kenko .5 on my PC110. It's good for outside RW and 4 way. You can cheat-zoom it if you need to get a little closer.

It's not wide enough to shoot inside RW or anything linked. If you're outside looking in, it's OK.

For anything inside or linked I want that new Diamond .3

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I've had very good results with Kenko's 0.5 wide angle lens for Tandem, AFF, and RW (matches up pretty good with my 24mm lens on my still camera. For freeflying I'll use a Kenko 0.43. If you're tight and very comfortable interacting with Tandems, you can use the 0.43. I've started using it a lot more with Tandems because I like the fish-eye effect on the horizon and puffy Florida clouds....but you've got to be close to your subject(s)! I've never zoomed in...always full wide on my camera, so I cannot comment on how much farther you can get away with being with these two lenses.
Jairo
Low Profile, snag free helmet mount for your Sony X3000 action cam!

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Thats kinda why I went with the 0.6. It closely approximates the 28mm lens I shoot stills, but also I want to be able to zoom all the way out as a default and still be ok. The 0.6 can get to looking too wide if you get separated on exit, but its great for the close ups and you dont HAVE to be right in the tandem's lap.

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Quote


The 0.6 can get to looking too wide if you get separated on exit, but its great for the close ups and you dont HAVE to be right in the tandem's lap.



...unless your filming the naked Hooter's Girls getting their "free" tandems. B| Then you'd want to be right in their laps!
But seriously...I guess I'm enjoying flying the o.43 recently because it challenges my flying skills a lot more than the 0.5. Just adds to MY fun when I'm up there. Also, when I grab the Tandem student's hands in freefall to spin them, the 0.43 keeps both the student and the TM in frame, whereas the 0.5 cuts part of them off the screen. However, if I see that the student is 220+ lbs and they're going with an already heavy TM, I'll change back over to the 0.5 because I know they'll be haulin' ass (potential separation) until they get the drogue out.
I agree with you, Sniper CJ, that for Tandems and the such, one should choose a wide angle lens for video that most closely matches the wide angle lens for the still camera. In your case, the 0.6 approximates your 28mm, whereas the 0.5 matches up well with my 24mm for the still.
So overall, when choosing a wide angle for the video, one should evaulate one's preference in how close or far you're wanting to be, and also the wide angle for the still camera..and go from there.:)Jairo
Low Profile, snag free helmet mount for your Sony X3000 action cam!

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I've got a Kenko .43 and I love it. I zoom it in SLIGHTLY to get rid of the vingetting and it is the poop. In fact...it makes all ranges look a lot better than the stock lens. It does get to a point....way out there where you really can't tell whats what but thats like 100 Yds or more. I'm still a bit timid chasing Head down two ways but my footage usually still looks decent. It rocks for tandem stuff.

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