0
wildernessmedic

Landing accuracy.

Recommended Posts

I've had around 10 jumps in a row with great landings right near target and i'm wondering what the next step is. I'm wanting to taking a canopy control class for my B license but the only one I could find coming up locally is full.

Right now to get on target rather than making 90 degree turns I've been making more or a bow out to bleed off just the right amount of altitude before coming in on final. Should I be working on making those sharper 90 turns or is this ok? It seems much easier and smoother than trying to get a sharp 90 just at the right time.

I've also been messing with the front rise to adjust the glide angle while at a safe altitude. Seems pretty hard to pull it down much. On some of my coach jump videos i've seen them do this to to bleed off altitude. Is this something I can gently mess with for landing or way beyond where am at and should not attempt at all?

What's the next step to work on as far as canopy control and landing, just keep doing the same thing for a while or...?

Thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Has anyone given you your B license progression card yet?

http://www.uspa.org/Portals/0/files/Form_CPProficiencyCard.pdf

I plan on just heading to either Eloy or Florida sometime this winter for a canopy course but I know you can have this stuff signed off at your home DZ too and don't necessarily need to take a canopy course.

I do the same thing and run out my base a little longer sometimes as well or turn in a little shorter depending on the winds etc. If you think about it unless its a no wind day you will always be crabbing anyways on your base. I found a great article somewhere in here that I printed off to improve your accuracy and it basically talks about that exact same thing. As soon as I find it I'll post it for ya.

I did find this as well, not quite what you are asking but still a great article by PD http://www.dropzone.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=48240;

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Canopy course, yep. The guys working on their accuracy will usually put a target (often a frisbee or traffic cone) out in the field and then do a bunch of hop and pops to try to land on it. Some of those guys can land on a Smurf. Or a puffin.
I'm trying to teach myself how to set things on fire with my mind. Hey... is it hot in here?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Someone mentioned TK's seminar, which I agree is helpful.

You think you might need to sharpen up your turns, but too sharp or not sharp enough should be considered related to the local canopy traffic on each jump. On any given jump even the best canopy pilot will be landing in different places as a way to help accommodate those around him/her.

Learning to be accurate without setting up over specific turn points and without turning at specific altitudes will help you be better when the sky is full of canopies. It is often like, "Based on where I am right now and where everyone else is, where do I need to go and how do I get there without being a problem for others?"

It sounds like you are on the right track. More practice never hurts. The C license requirement is 25 landings within 2 meters. It is never too early to make your average closer to the target and you can start counting those now. Just be sure to log them.
Instructor quote, “What's weird is that you're older than my dad!”

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
gunsmokex

Here it is TK's accuracy seminar I learned a lot from reading this!

http://www.dropzone.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=146319;


Thanks!

I asked two different people about the B license proficiency card and they said there wasn't one, you just need to take a canopy control course.

I will grab what I can and get started. The last handful of jumps I was within 2-3 meters of the cone. One or two I could have landed on the cone.


So basically, what do to advance from this big exaggerated pattern on a student field? Start lower and fly the same pattern but tighter?

Come in at the same altitude and use some front risers to drop down excess altitude? I don't want to try anything outside of my complete new guy realm and get hurt or killed. But if i'm consistently standing up near target where do I go from there?

Sorry if that's confusing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Actually there is a form. You can download it at USPA.org/downloads. Its listed under all downloads and forms.
The requirements for authorized signatures are listed in Section 6-11 of the SIMS.
"You don't get many warnings in this sport before you get damaged"

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
What are your goals under canopy?
Look up the downsizing checklists on here for drills and ideas of things to practice to improve your overall skill.

Get some canopy coaching. The easiest way is to ask someone to video your landings for a few jumps, then sit down with an instructor or canopy coach (beer helps) and get feedback and come up with one or two things to work towards. One 10 minute conversation helped me figure out my own goals so I could work on them.

Front risers induce speed. For accuracy purposes, you want the sight picture to be the same every time so you can repeat accuracy. Front risers on final do drop altitude, but then your canopy recovers from the dive and is going faster, so you're just changing what it looks like to get to your target and using a whole lot of input. Don't do it. It sounds like you're already varying your turns onto final to get you to your target in different wind conditions, don't change everything now, you're on the right track going for consistency.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
wildernessmedic

I asked two different people about the B license proficiency card and they said there wasn't one, you just need to take a canopy control course.



Who are these people? Experienced jumpers? Students? Instructors?

A B license proficiency card (by that exact name) may not exist, but there is an important "card" related to the B license. It called the Canopy Piloting Proficiency Card and can be found in the SIM or in the Downloads section of the USPA web site.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
peek

***I asked two different people about the B license proficiency card and they said there wasn't one, you just need to take a canopy control course.



Who are these people? Experienced jumpers? Students? Instructors? I can't imagine an answer that is more incorrect.

Well, TBH, there isn't one in the sense that it is equivalent to the A license card...there is the canopy card which lists jumps and tasks (which I guess passes as a "proficiency card"...then the rest is the standard license app...do your quiz, verify appropriate tasks completed required for the license...send in your money. So...less individual task sign-off and more of a block sign-off.

I'm guessing that is what people were getting at. Besides, most courses to satisfy the B requirement with either a) tell you ahead of time to go download the form or b) have copies with the instructors that they will then sign.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
wildernessmedic


I've also been messing with the front rise to adjust the glide angle while at a safe altitude. Seems pretty hard to pull it down much. On some of my coach jump videos i've seen them do this to to bleed off altitude. Is this something I can gently mess with for landing or way beyond where am at and should not attempt at all?

Do you have dive loops on the back of your front risers? That makes front riser inputs much easier. For safety, make sure you hold onto your steering toggles with all 4 fingers thru the loops, and use only your index and middle finger thru the dive loops. This way you'll always be able to release the dive loops without accidentally letting go of the toggles. This kind of accident is very dangerous close to the ground.

I fly much of my pattern making front riser diving turns instead of toggle turns. It often enables me to get down below and ahead of slower traffic without making larger, more dangerous turns. I usually make my 90 degree to final turn using a front riser to build up speed for my "old man" swoop. (I'm def. not a 180 or 270 swooper:D).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
JohnMitchell

***
I've also been messing with the front rise to adjust the glide angle while at a safe altitude. Seems pretty hard to pull it down much. On some of my coach jump videos i've seen them do this to to bleed off altitude. Is this something I can gently mess with for landing or way beyond where am at and should not attempt at all?

Do you have dive loops on the back of your front risers? That makes front riser inputs much easier. For safety, make sure you hold onto your steering toggles with all 4 fingers thru the loops, and use only your index and middle finger thru the dive loops. This way you'll always be able to release the dive loops without accidentally letting go of the toggles. This kind of accident is very dangerous close to the ground.

I fly much of my pattern making front riser diving turns instead of toggle turns. It often enables me to get down below and ahead of slower traffic without making larger, more dangerous turns. I usually make my 90 degree to final turn using a front riser to build up speed for my "old man" swoop. (I'm def. not a 180 or 270 swooper:D).


No I don't, is that something I can have a rigger put on? Have my rig getting a reserve repack and some toggle stows and new velcro put on right now.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

0