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QuoteQuoteWhen I later checked the trim I found that the outer lines (apart from the steering lines) had shrunk up to 6" and inboard lines less than 1.5".
And how do you like your new reline then?
(that delta of shrinkage is more than enough indicator for a reline)
Since I'd shrunk my beer belly by over 20 pounds and wanted to stay close to the wing loading I had over the last 600 jumps I opted to buy a new Samurai 105 instead of re-lining my Stiletto 120 :-)
If I ever move back some place where other jumpers would like to be on back to back loads I might fix my Stiletto and find out.
billvon 2,434
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1) get the line specs
2) if the canopy is opening OK, then lengthen the line BELOW the stow point. If the canopy is not opening OK, then you likely have a problem ABOVE the stow point. However, just adjusting this without knowing the correct length can lead to long snivels, brutally hard openings or other funkiness on opening - so again it's critical to have the line length spec.
2) if the canopy is opening OK, then lengthen the line BELOW the stow point. If the canopy is not opening OK, then you likely have a problem ABOVE the stow point. However, just adjusting this without knowing the correct length can lead to long snivels, brutally hard openings or other funkiness on opening - so again it's critical to have the line length spec.
Well, I hunted a bit further, and in conjunction with this thread, I have managed to find the spec. Thanks everyone. Perhaps I'll post once I measure and find how different it it from spec.
God made firefighters so paramedics would have heroes...and someone can put out the trailer fires.
QuoteFor example, every time I tried to order line kits from the old Aerodyne (Diablo, Triathlon, etc.), they told me long stories about all the mistakes made by field riggers re-lining their canopies in the past. blablablabla!!!!!
Yeah, but... didn't some of that have to do with at one point "they" changed the line trim on the Triathlon that not only changed the trim settings, but also changed the attach points on some of the line groups... AND... they ran into problems where some riggers in the field when doing a reline on a Triathlon were just taking the old line-set off and putting the new (with new trim) line-set on AND NOT changing the attach points where they were also supposed to? The result being a re-lined Triathlon the flew horribly??
Or is all that just urban legend???
Yeah, yeah, I know, those really to blame were those doing re-lines and not reading all the instructions, service bullitins, etc. they should be up on... but I can see where the old company would be kinda ouchy about it.
QuoteWell, I hunted a bit further, and in conjunction with this thread, I have managed to find the spec. Thanks everyone. Perhaps I'll post once I measure and find how different it it from spec.
How about you post the specs too?
Will do:
Icarus Safire 1, 169
Cascade-Brake: 246.1cm
Brake-Togle: 37cm
Icarus Safire 1, 169
Cascade-Brake: 246.1cm
Brake-Togle: 37cm
God made firefighters so paramedics would have heroes...and someone can put out the trailer fires.
rehmwa 2
QuoteWill do:
Icarus Safire 1, 169
Cascade-Brake: 246.1cm
Brake-Togle: 37cm
246.1
I'm sure that millimeter is critical.
Don't specs have a +/- to them?
...
Driving is a one dimensional activity - a monkey can do it - being proud of your driving abilities is like being proud of being able to put on pants
riggerrob 558
You are correct.
The problem started with Aerodyne mailing out 4.0 line sets, but no instructions on where to sew on the new line attachment tape.
I doubt if attaching a 4.0 line set to the old locations would have killed anyone, but I am the sort of narrow-minded, control-freak, nit-picker who likes to have factory specs when doing major repairs.
Did I mention that one of my pet peeves is factories mailing line sets without trim charts. Fortunately, the better manufacturers (Aerodyne, Performance Designs, Precision, etc.) now publish line trim charts on-line.
The problem started with Aerodyne mailing out 4.0 line sets, but no instructions on where to sew on the new line attachment tape.
I doubt if attaching a 4.0 line set to the old locations would have killed anyone, but I am the sort of narrow-minded, control-freak, nit-picker who likes to have factory specs when doing major repairs.
Did I mention that one of my pet peeves is factories mailing line sets without trim charts. Fortunately, the better manufacturers (Aerodyne, Performance Designs, Precision, etc.) now publish line trim charts on-line.
Quote
Fortunately, the better manufacturers (Aerodyne, Performance Designs, Precision, etc.) now publish line trim charts on-line.
The only line-trim measurements I've messed with have been PD canopies, but I've heard that PD measures their line trim different then the rest of the industry... and I've heard of riggers getting themselves in trouble measureing line trim ala-PD on non-PD canopies???
riggerrob 558
Correct.
Performance Designs tells riggers to attach all the connector links and brake locking eyes (aka. cats' eyes) to one peg before measuring lines.
Meanwhile, several other manufacturers (i.e. Strong Enterprises) prefer to measure lines "on risers."
Fortunately, Performance Designs published a diagram of their method a long time ago. That diagram is near trim charts on PD's website.
Performance Designs tells riggers to attach all the connector links and brake locking eyes (aka. cats' eyes) to one peg before measuring lines.
Meanwhile, several other manufacturers (i.e. Strong Enterprises) prefer to measure lines "on risers."
Fortunately, Performance Designs published a diagram of their method a long time ago. That diagram is near trim charts on PD's website.
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