0
simplyputsi

Switching oil brands in a car

Recommended Posts

Quote


You dont necessarily "have to" but different oils have different viscosities and break down at different temperatures and lifespans. Its just a piece of mind sort of thing. Its ultimately up to you but it wont make much of a difference.




Where did you go for your automotive training? The type R vtech school of NAWSSSSS?!?!?!?!

:S

On a side note if you drain synthetic at the regular 3k interval you aren't taking full advantage of it and you are simply wasting cash. It is designed for much longer drain intervals, but I recomend changing the oil filter half way through and toping the oil off at the same time.
"The restraining order says you're only allowed to touch me in freefall"
=P

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
We used to run the racing cars on Castrol R40. That stuff is so thick you have to wire in a 24volt external starter rig to turn it over. But once its up to temperature it has amazing protective qualities. Any old timers who were into high perfomance engines or racing cars will know the gorgeous distinctive smell of R40. The engine building company I worked for would only allow their engines to go out with R40 in them. Try and buy it though and you'll either get looked at blankly or laughed out the office until they realise you're being serious.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Quote

It's a 2000 civic si, with just at 110,000 miles.

I shouldn't have to flush the engine should I. I should just be able to use the new oil next time I get an oil change, and yes the filter as well.



That's correct. Don't worry about flushing.
So I try and I scream and I beg and I sigh
Just to prove I'm alive, and it's alright
'Cause tonight there's a way I'll make light of my treacherous life
Make light!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
If you're already running synthetic, stay with it.

If you've been running dino, and are thinking of switching, you might have problems with leaks where there weren't any before.

Key is to change regularly and stick with what's recommended viscosity wise.

AVOID Quaker State of any type. Every engine I've torn down that had been run with QS had major sludge buildup.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

0