fcajump

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fcajump last won the day on October 3 2019

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  1. I used a Cypres temp pin to catch/lock the deployment and it seemed to work fine for me. I'll look for some fine piano wire, but meanwhile the suggestion betzilla made to use dental floss threaders looks like it will work well to thread the pullup cord back in when/as necessary. JW
  2. I took this as sarcasm... (hope so). To the jumper in question... good job. fight for you life... you might just win. JW
  3. First -sorry for the footnotes here... I can't help but include many lessons learned for the young rigger out there... so they avoid stupid/honest mistakes I've done, seen or heard... I do a few things, none of which seem to cause issues (first priority) and seem to help (secondary consideration): First - when I clean*/lube* the cutaway cables, I then use the same cleaning/lube cloths on the reserve ripcord. Just as with the cutaway cables, the lube should be _thin_ coat... don't soak it. Second - I use the Cypres lube on the loop IACW the mfg instructions. Third - I run the center of my pullup cord* (cypres loop material) through the Cypres lube cloth (to help not remove the lube from the loop as its drawn through, reduces cord-on-loop friction) I do NOT use the Cypres lube or WD50 on the ripcord or cutaway cables as I believe they are too thick and too likely to attract dust. Just my $.02 JW *Lessons Learned/Heard/Observed: - per Booth's recommendation I clean with Ronsonol* Lighter Fluid and lube with Ace Hardware Brand Silicon Spray Lube* - Ransonol brand sells both Lighter Fluid and Multi-Fill Butane Fuel, both useful to those refilling the two (different) types of lighters, but to those of us who rarely use, must let refill lighters... they are different things. You want the yellow squirt bottle. - Silicon Spray Lube is in a can that looks remarkably like the Silicon Spray Adhesive. It is highly recommended that you make sure you know the difference before using... (this told me by a rigger of the highest level who made that very mistake) - Cleaning, and lubing with these items is simple, but can be f-ed up I'm sure... spray some lighter fluid on a clean cloth (paper-towl) and then run the cable through it. Repeat in a different wet part of the towel until you're no longer leading dark streaks on the cloth. Spray a second cloth with the Lube and draw the cable though it once to apply a _thin_ coating along its length. - If you use the Cypres loop material for your pullup cord, finger-trap ~6" additional loop material into the middle of your pullup cord (completely encased, so the middle section is thicker with no ends sticking out). It helps open the loop a bit to get the (temp)pin into the loop. SSK indicated that this is approved (per Cliff at the time). I do recommend shifting toward one end when moving it through the cutter, so that you're not trying to pull the full doubled u-turn through the cutter. - If you find that you are staining ANY part of the rig (flaps, risers, harness, D-bag, canopy) with the lube, STOP!!! You are using WAY TO MUCH!!! Get help from someone who can show you how to do this right.
  4. Agreed, but it is the mfg supplied part, and removing the scratches (if problematic) is better than not. I'd not advocate trying to apply any after market hardening. We've had problems in the past with metal components being processed/treated in ways that turned out to be bad in the end. I personally saw that part of his video as an appeal to the rig/pin mfgs to consider R,D&T into having a harder layer. If you are qualified and have the resources to do that R,D&T for the industry, GREAT... just don't experiment on customer rigs. JW
  5. PS - If anyone knows how to make (or where to get) the fishing loop he used to pull the pullup cord back through the closing loop, please drop a line. I used a pair for small forceps, but its NOT as easy a his tool.
  6. FWIW - used his technique for pull force test without full deployment this last weekend. Worked consistently and will be my standard going forward. For those unsure how he was setting it up, here is what I did and my results (packed Jav-Ody in for AIR, customer not present): - removed seal - routed a pull-up cord into reserve loop (as though it was just packed and pinned), leave it off to the side of the reserve pin (no tension on the cord, as though you were about to remove it) - place long temp pin (I used a cypres pin) _between_ the two sides of the pullup cord, sitting right next to the closing loop, parallel to the reserve pin. - tie the two lines of the pullup cord into a slip knot (see https://www.animatedknots.com/slip-knot) and cinch it down as close to the temp pin as possible, trapping the temp pin next to the closing loop. - attach you scale to the ripcord handle (removed from pocket) - test by pulling the scale handle. (make sure the shoulder of the rig is either worn by someone, or that you use something like your foot in the rig's shoulder to keep the housing as close to its normal arch as possible. The ripcord will (should) pull clear of the housing. Assuming you are using a scale that shows peak load, you now know what the pull force was. If you setup the system correctly, you should now find that the rig is held closed on the pullup cord and temp pin. NOTE: unlike when you are packing the rig, the temp pin is NOT holding the container closed on the closing loop, but on the knot in your pullup cord. If you release the slip knot before getting the knee board back in place, you will get to a pilot-chute in the face. Replace the ripcord, repin and seal (assuming your peak force was under 22 lbs.) If it was high, correct your problem and reclose/retest. On the rig I was planning to repack, I tested three times. Twice using the above method and once without the locking system. The pull force reported was within 1/4 lb each time. It would also be easy to use this technique to give your customer multiple "live fire" exercises, with minimal reset time. Its even simpler if you are testing a rig you just closed... if you remember to test before removing the pullup cord. Takes a minute, gives you the reassurance that its deployable and might save a life. JW
  7. First - check this, then come back for discussion, Q/A: (Thanks to Mr. Thompson for his video, if you're here please speak up as I think you've raised a GREAT point) I've long been an advocate with my customers that they should all have a first hand knowledge of how it feels to pull their ripcord. Can't tell you how many (especially pilots) tell me they had never pulled one. And when they don't pull it, I always put a scale on it and test. (and I've found some that table-locked, nothing I've packed, but always makes me nervous). But that only tells me how it was after the fact. To test before it goes out, I usually use this http://www.paragear.com/skydiving/10000161/M5995/PARACHUTE-RESERVE-RIPCORD-PIN-PULL-CHECK-TOOL. But it doesn't work on all rigs and it doesn't allow full deployment of the pin, only to move it. (it is still MUCH better than nothing) I'll be trying his technique (in video) on the next rig I do... I think I'll like it better. Any manufacturer wish to comment on his discussion on pin harness/coatings? At a minimum, his video should get riggers and jumpers alike thinking about this issue. Finally, I know that in a loft is different than in the air, but it really bothers me how many in the video hesitated, looked around and waited instead of using a two-hands and powering through their pull. Just my $.02, JW PS - I'd like to know more about his fishing-line tool (4:18) and the small temp pin (4:49)... it looks like a vector pin, but smaller.. I'm sure someone knows, but I'm not placing it...
  8. Disclaimers: I am personally opposed to unfastened/ultra loose chest straps. I don't like quick eject snaps. A snug belly band is a must here. I am a self-described chicken-shit skydiver. To address your question, with factory guidance, you could look at using the old Quick Eject snaps. The would need a modification to allow the installation of the matching Triangle ring. http://www.paragear.com/skydiving/10000175/H393/ These have been common on emergency bail-out PEP rigs where cutaway is not an option and you want a way to get out of the rig quick upon landing (drug in high winds, water landing). As I said, I don't like them for the possibility of inadvertent disconnect, but that's your issue. JW
  9. Tried hitting their website over the weekend - got "Error establishing a database connection" Tried sending messages here to their listed contacts - rejected that the individual can't receive messages. Anyone have more/better/additional means of contact (I don't have their phone# here)? Or did something happen to them that I missed?? JW Yes, I know there are many opinions on the Racer/John/PLinc/etc... Just a rigger trying to do his job.
  10. Comment from SSK on the Airtec reply:The rig manufacturer has the TSO so they give the final word, Airtec can only offer suggestions, but it doesn't seem to be a problem for them or SSK.
  11. Reply from AirTec: We can say what can damage the CYPRES and this should be avoided, and we can say how to handle and use the CYPRES in the correct way, but the installation is actually up to the container and harness manufacturer. And also, we will give suggestions to the H/C manufacturer how the CYPRES setup needs to be positioned in their containers in the best way to get the best possible result and the fastest reserve openings after the cutter activation. I also want to raise the awareness of the riggers to think about certain facts / things in order for them to draw the right conclusions and make the right decisions. We explained in our rigging tips booklet how to handle excess cable stowage. (page 22) https://www.cypres.aero/.../991205_CYPRES_Rigging_Tips.pdf However, this is a recommendation and if someone is happy to turn the whole processing unit 180 degrees then it is the riggers responsibility. We, from our side can only give suggestions and recommendations. They e.g. can use the rubber band, but they don't have to. Turning around the processing unit, shouldn't be a problem in itself, as long as there is no tension of the cables (especially on the exit and entry points) also after the repack is done and all container flaps are closed, but please also consider that in this position, the filter is located on the open mouth of the processing unit pocket and in this way it is not protected very well from dust, dirt, sand or any other debris entering into the reserve container during use or any zero porosity fabric (from who knows where will be able to block / clog up the filter hole. This is actually the only issue I can think of why I personally would position the filter side towards the inside of the pouch. The filter needs to stay clean in order to have the correct air pressure reading. If your rig usually keeps the dirt out of the reserve container then it should be not a problem. I hope this helps in order that everybody will make the correct decision. If there are any further questions please let me know.
  12. My personal thoughts: While I don't do this on any other rigs, I do on one of my own. The cables are too short to make a full 360 around the unit (they "fit" until the freebag goes in and then they are under too much tension. Using no wrap leaves a lot to be stowed, or to provide a snag point. The 180 turn puts just the right amount of cable in the pouch _for_this_rig. As long as the unit is not pressed to the back of the pouch the cables don't have any sharp bends. Orientation of the unit/filter/air-intake is not going to affect the operation. Now, do NOT get me wrong, I am NOT suggesting to do this on a customer's rig. I believe in following the mfg instructions. But I ALSO believe in providing mfg feedback and questioning whether alternative methods are also equally viable. (I have sent this question up the line...)
  13. This is being reposted here from the FB group "Parachute Rigging for Dummies" because I think it would be of use/interest here as well. I'll start with the original posting below and include the replies from SSK and Airtec --------------------------- FB User: CrashTallman posted: Just removed the Cypres from a micro sigma container. The filter was facing the right side, with the wires going into the pouch first. It actually seems to route the excess wires better, but I’ve never seen it done this way in any of the manuals, nor in any rig I’ve ever unpacked. Is this an acceptable method of installing the Cypres AAD?
  14. FWIW - I am moving forward with Paralog (at least for now). I'm also drafting notes on how to convert jumps from JumpTrack to Paralog. Not too bad, but it is frustrating that there is little instruction provided in the details that matter. Now if I could find my Protrack data cradle/cable... Got a couple hundred jumps on there during the time my Altitrack was laid up. (anyone got one they don't need??) JW PS - if you have one, drop me a line..
  15. Echo all of the above, wear them everytime. Jumping since 1990, only been using earplugs for a few years. And the ringing is annoying. Fortunately, like many things, attitudes are changing and (for example) my DZ provides them for free to anyone. If you're doesn't, ask why not and meanwhile go get your own. JW