husslr187

I’m flying a W14 wings right now and I think the 170 sabre2 in it right now fits kinda soft. I was thinking of trying a 150, can you shorten the closing loop enough to maintain decent pin pressure or would it be a belly only rig?

You’ll get better over time. When you get your own rig you can practice anytime if you have the space

Series of a canopy opening I took earlier this year https://adobe.ly/2P1minU edit it appears adobe likes it out of order

That wingloading was about where I was when I was at 50 jumps but I remained current up until that point. If you can get a 210 in there for a little while it would be in your best interest.

That is a direct copy/paste from an amazon review and you’re only other post looks like it took a few key words from the post above it. There’s no way I’m clicking on your link.

Might have been custom made to that size. I would contact aerodyne directly with the serial number to know for sure. I’m assuming you’re looking for a line set

I would say, get about 50 or so jumps in, take a canopy course, rent or borrow a few different canopies to try and then you’ll have a better idea of what you’ll want to fly. When I first tried a pilot 168 I really liked the opening, the light rear riser pressure and flat glide. Once I experience the toggle turns an flare power of the sabre2 170 I quickly forget about the pilot.

The best people to ask is the instructors that are familiar with your flying abilities. Short answer will likely be it’s to small. With full gear, your wing load is around 1.3. Knowing nothing else about you or your abilities I would suggest a 210-220 range at the minimum. Again talk to your instructors not just random people on the internet. One other note the title of the post looks like and ad to sell a rig instead of being posted in the classifieds. It happens in this section often enough that this post might be ignored. I almost did anyway

So you Joined in 2014 just to reply to a 14 year old post 5 years later?

Head down and aim for the graveyard near the dz. I’ll bury myself

Is it just the grellfab that uses the rubberbands? All the ones I saw were either screwed or bolted. With that said it does make it a good option.

If a line gets caught, there’s a good chance that it’s going to whip your chin up or to the side and up. I’m not saying a top mount snag won’t do the same but I can visualize a large amount of leverage from the chin. Imagine a line pulling straight up from either location quickly.

Cookie has a roller mount on their website for the g3 Here . I’ve seen the chin mounts and most looked it would easily catch a line if it got anywhere near it although less likely to be there. I also didn’t like the idea of it being in my field of view or the leverage possibilities from that point. Invest in a cutaway as well and learn where it is and include it in your handle checks so you build the muscle memory. If you don’t have an audible, nows the time to get one. Talk with your local camera flyers, ST&A, DZO, ect about different scenarios that could come up just because you’re flying camera. Some could be different depending on what you’re planning to do.

I’m not sure if a rigger is required for some of these tasks but. I changed my pilot chute and had a rigger check it afterwards. (Not too difficult) I also changed my main with a rigger as well. (Definitely requires attention to detail) Both times I was confident I could have done it myself but I would prefer to have a second set of eyes on it edit: I was the kid that took everything apart to see how it works so it didn’t take much for me to figure things out on my rig as it’s very easy for me to visualize how it works. YMMV

There are goggles that will go around your glasses. The dropzone will likely have a few to loan edit: I haven’t heard of any issues with them as long as the goggles are tight