Graiki 0 #1 March 22, 2010 Hello friends. I had this weekend, a problem of condensation (foggy) in my fish-eye lens for photography. Has anyone had this problem and could help me? I put a photo attached. Thank you. Graiki Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PhreeZone 15 #2 March 22, 2010 Which lens are you using? A lot of it is depending on conditions and there is little you can do to stop it. Yesterday is history And tomorrow is a mystery Parachutemanuals.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dragon2 0 #3 March 22, 2010 If the condensation is really inside the lens (ie, between the glass elements), that lens is totalled (I've had that happen...). But most likely the condensation was on the outside of the lens. Not much you can do about condensation like that if you jump in very humid conditions, especially with a fisheye since you can't put a filter in front of it. Try to prevent extreme temerature differences. Not always practical when skydiving... But taking the camera from a heated room into a cold hangar to a heated airplane to cold air is a recipe for fog, both inside and outside your lens/camera. If you can keep the temperature more constant (leave the camera in the cold hangar while you burn your cd in a warm room, etc) it'll help, a bit. There's also anti-fog stuff like CatCrap but I'd be very hesitant to put that on a photography lens, it's likely very bad for it's coating. Some lenses seem to be more susceptible to fogging than others, I see you're jumping a Sony, not many people here jump Sony DSLR to compare, you might try the Finnish wingsuit team I seem to remember them having a Sony. As a sidenote: Saturation - high Sharpness - hard Why? This may SEEM like nice pics on the screen but leaves the customer no room at all to adjust anything. Seems to be a regional thing, and a camera brand/model thing: Sony's camera's like the cheaper Nikon and Canon cameras come pre-set out of the box with settings like this, 'cause it "looks nice". But if you know a bit about what you're doing, you can get the same effect if not better yourself afterwards if you want to, or leave off for a more natural look, or you could do something altogether different with the photo. Your settings don't leave anyone much choice... ciel bleu, Saskia Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Graiki 0 #4 March 23, 2010 Hello dragon2. The condensation is inside the fish eye. I put the fish-eye in the sling with which it comes. Then put in the sun and after a few minutes it was sweating out. Then I used a hair dryer, with little power of heat to dry out. I believe that should have worked. I'll see in next weekend if it worked. You say: There's also anti-fog stuff like CatCrap but I'd be very hesitant to put that on a photography lens, it's likely very bad for it's coating. I know and use it in extreme conditions. About As a sidenote: Saturation - high Sharpness - hard It´s not actually correct. In my sony I have many pre-settings, for exemple, the sport mode. I don´t use any of them, for skydiving. I set the camera the way I thing it must be. Speaking about the tandens, I increase one level of saturation & Sharpness. Because I believe the photos get more vivid colours and better. I could also change contrast, but I don’t. They are levels -2,-1,0,1,2 in ADOBE colours. Being 0 (zero) the normal setting, or normal, as you said. I just increase 1 point. It is not high nor hard. I am very thankful your advices. But I did not understand what you wanted to say by; This may SEEM like nice pics on the screen but leaves the customer no room at all to adjust anything & Seems to be a regional thing & Your settings don't leave anyone much choice... Are you suggesting that the tandem students should adjust the photos afterwards? With the photoshop? If this is the case, I bealive that it would be interesting having a very powerfull DSLR, and take the photos in the RAW mode, not in JPEG. Anyway you can be right and I can change my way of thinking. I like to learn and improve professionally. Thanks dude, Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dragon2 0 #5 March 23, 2010 If there's moisture INSIDE the lens, it's as good as dead It's not going to go away. I'd get a new one, myself, and not jump this lens anymore... As for the settings, I got them from the exif of YOUR picture so that's what your picture says you're shooting with I do give RAW pictures to the occasional tandem student that asks for them before the jump, usually those are photographers themselves. For the rest, they get jpegs, but not "souped up" like yours so there is still a fair amount of room to play with them even if they are only jpegs. Many of the younger folk twiddle around in photoshop or similar these days. Magazines are also not too fond of extra saturated and sharpened pictures. Also sharpening can cause noise, especially on sunset loads etc. It's not a MUST, if your customers are happy then why not, it's just that I wouldn't use that as standard settings myself. Also, not a dude ciel bleu, Saskia Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PharmerPhil 0 #6 March 23, 2010 The third option is that there is moisture behind the lens inside the camera body. I always try to change lenses when it is dry out, or in an air-conditioned room. If the moisture is on the front of the lens there is something you can do to minimize it. Water condenses on cold surfaces (think a cold bottle of beer on a hot day,...). So keeping your lens as warm as possible helps a lot. Depending on how your camera is mounted, try sitting with the lens of your SLR in your crotch, or keep a warm hand over it on the ride to altitude. Avoid just sitting it next to you near the door of an Otter where it will get very cold. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Springbock 0 #7 March 25, 2010 I have had moisture on my Rainox Lens on some Jumps looking very much as your example and I had it not on some others. My Idea is that it is moisture from in Between the Rainox and the CX105 Lens. I will try to get rid of it by putting the Lens on in very dry condition (warming my room up right now with humidity at 20%) and then put the Lens on tight and putting some tape around the connection. I will then leave it like this and don't change the Lens anymore. Lets hope that helps. Martin Take care up there! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Springbock 0 #8 May 20, 2010 OK, my plan failed completely. We are 3 Videoguys at our DZ having the same Lens with the same Problem. Regardless what we do, we even baked the Lens in an Oven to dry it, we have moisture in the center when its cold in the air. It seems better when its warmer. However, when I don't find a solution I will buy a different Lens. Take care up there! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
piisfish 135 #9 May 20, 2010 did you try jumping the camera without wide angle to see if the moisture is inside the camera instead ?scissors beat paper, paper beat rock, rock beat wingsuit - KarlM Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Springbock 0 #10 May 20, 2010 Quotedid you try jumping the camera without wide angle to see if the moisture is inside the camera instead ? No, but I used a more simpler Wideangle Lens where the Problem did not occur. Unfortunately that Lens is not suitable for HD Videos. Take care up there! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
brokky 4 #11 May 20, 2010 Quote If there's moisture INSIDE the lens, it's as good as dead It's not going to go away. I'd get a new one, myself, and not jump this lens anymore... really? send your "humid" lenses to me then...no, wait a minute...you use Nikon...This problem with humidity happened to me a few times at places where it was hot and the the humidity was very high. Especially after jumping through wet clouds i often had the problem with humidity inside the lens and it would stay there for the next jumps even if the weather turned dry..... But my theory is that if the humidity can get into the lens..it can also get out... The problem seemed to go away by pointing the lens (without the camera) into the sun for a little while...but off course Sakia ...in Holland this would never work...wuk?? http://www.brunobrokken.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dragon2 0 #12 May 20, 2010 I'll have to come visit you then But these were video camera lenses, much cheaper to replace. No worky? New lens. ciel bleu, Saskia Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
brokky 4 #13 May 20, 2010 my little trick also worked with video wide angle lenses...whatever the price..wuk?? http://www.brunobrokken.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lister55 0 #14 May 21, 2010 This sounds like a common problem with this lense. I also have a Rainox that fogs inside. Switched to another lense on the next jump and no problem. I would like to hear how many have this lense and either do or do not have issues with it. I got fog in cold conditions and also in hot humid conditions. In Georgia. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DSE 3 #15 May 21, 2010 if the lens leaks, you'll get fog in there. These shouldn't leak, but they do sometimes. They're pretty low-grade lenses in comparision to the "rest" of the optical world. You can try sealing the lens at the threads with some nose oil, but that usually won't work. There is a seal in the front of the lens that is very thin. Not much help, but hopefully it explains the issue a little. Putting a hair dryer on it will clear it, but if there is any spotting inside from the condensate, it'll leave a spot that you can't get rid of. Letting it air dry is best, I think. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
