LIEBRICH401 0 #1 September 7, 2008 does anyone know the size drill bit you need to use for mounting a cameye2? also does anyone have any good tips for installation? i've never drilled my helmet and don't want to screw this up. cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jtval 0 #2 September 7, 2008 I assume youre talking about drilling the hole through the helmet/Dbox. I dont remeber the exact size but if you do it right you can hid the hole under the d box. Dont start with a 3 inch hole but if you can andlge the plug through the hole you'll be fine.My photos My Videos Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VectorBoy 0 #3 September 7, 2008 You may try to use an undersized drill bit and then with the tail or handle of a file carefully ream out to a superb fit by twisting it with you hand. Drills don't cut perfectly round holes anyway and reaming it will allow you to sneak up on it without overdoing it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PharmerPhil 0 #4 September 7, 2008 Quote and then with the tail or handle of a file carefully ream out to a superb fit by twisting it with you hand The correct tool is a "tapered reamer." Indispensable in my shop, particularly for helmet work and Fiberglas. Although I have mounted a Cam-eye button cleanly by using a stepped drill bit (it was the button you wanted to mount, right?). I believe "multi-bit" was the brand. (BTW, drill bits do cut perfectly round holes, but drill bit operators often don't.) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kefran 0 #5 September 7, 2008 drilled mine by using my dremel tool : drill 2 holes with around 1cm between them then just hollow the fiberglass between them with the rotative sanding tool mounted on the Dremel ... max 5 mins job. And a really easy one too !-------------------------------------------------- I never used 2 rocks to start a fire ... this is called evolution ! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
everymansaved 0 #6 September 7, 2008 Assuming you're talking about the button, I believe I used a 9/16" spade drill bit to do mine. I just went slow and steady, it worked fine. It seems like it's a little small, but just work it in with a bit of elbow grease and it works great.God made firefighters so paramedics would have heroes...and someone can put out the trailer fires. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jimmytavino 16 #7 September 8, 2008 as mentioned many times in these forums... if your helmet is carbon fiber... be sure to keep ALL cameras and camcorders FAR away from the area, while you're drilling or reaming. Then clean up the drillings as thoroughly as you can... carbon fibers are conductive, and if any small shards, or debris, find their way INTO your cameras....it's bad news...just spreading the word... jmy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PharmerPhil 0 #8 September 8, 2008 Just a thought.. Quote...if your helmet is carbon fiber... be sure to keep ALL cameras and camcorders FAR away from the area, while you're drilling or reaming... You know, I've heard this for years. And I have so far heeded these warnings and have done as you suggest. But I have a question. Have you EVER heard of this ACTUALLY causing a problem? Like I say, I do practice "better safe than sorry" (hell, I don't want ANY dust on my electronics) but so far these recommendations have only been theory. I have never heard of anyone really toasting their electronics via errant carbon fibers. (BTW, I also adhere to the recommendation of using clear nail polish to coat the freshly disturbed CF., but that also makes it look better...) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VideoFly 0 #9 September 8, 2008 I am measuring mine to be 5/8 inch at the plastic base, however, the rubber plate on top measures closer to 11/16 inch. The advise to drill the hole smaller and use a tapered ream or high speed sanding tool is good. That will help to prevent chipping of the helmet’s outer shell. If you are using a drill bit, drill a small pilot hole first and then step up to your desired drill bit size. This will keep a larger bit from wandering about when you start to drill. Also, gently mount the helmet securely in a solid clamp or other mechanism. Holding the helmet by hand or between your knees can be somewhat unstable and may increase the chance of drill bit wandering. Concerning placement, I prefer the top front or rear on the left side. Placement on the left side is helpful if you are out the door looking at a blue light. It is easier to turn the camera into filming mode with your left hand as you are already holding a bar with your right. Reaching across to your right works, but you run the risk of having your left hand sweeping across your video. Once in place from the inside of the helmet, silicon works well to glue the switch base in place. Fiberglass and/or epoxy works, but it is more difficult to remove if the Cam-eye needs replacement. If you’re not sure about drilling your helmet or where to place the switch, you can mount it on the outside with good double side foam tape. This will give you the opportunity to move the switch later if you want. Also, you can get help from a plastic fabrication or boat-making shop if you want an expert to drill the hole correctly. Bring the helmet and the switch with you. One more thing, make sure the wires are long enough to reach your camera’s LANC port and field of vision before drilling your helmet and mounting the switch. It is helpful to run the wires inside the helmet so they don’t get pulled on by wind, risers, hands, plane parts, and other snag points. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VectorBoy 0 #10 September 8, 2008 QuoteQuote and then with the tail or handle of a file carefully ream out to a superb fit by twisting it with you hand The correct tool is a "tapered reamer." Indispensable in my shop, particularly for helmet work and Fiberglas. That correct tool costs from $30~100, I've got a few sizes here too. The alternate tool I mentioned is probably already in the drawer and therefore free for those that don't have a "shop" and just need to ream one hole. Works real good too! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
