still images

[flahive 0]

ok, i've been shooting stills for a couple of months now and have been getting good results: in focus, proper exposure, etc. what i can't figure out is how most of the published pictures i see have such dark blue skies. I mainly shoot tandem and aff pics, and the student and JM/s always look great, but the background sky looks kind of washed out. if i underexpose a little bit, the picture just seems to get grainy. if i use a polarizing filter it just cuts down the light to the camera, and slows the shutter w/ the same results.

i've tried lots of different settings, i have settled w/ f11, 200 film, Ap. Priority. when using manual settings, i don't get consistent results. usually can only get about five good shots out of a roll, compared to 24 out of 24 with the Ap. Priority.
i guess i am really tring to find out what you guys are using for your settings.

[quade 3]

The type of film has a lot to do with the results you'll get.
Kodak print film, for instance, tends to be a bit warmer. Great for portraits, but lousy for sky shots. This is true of most C-41 process film.
Kodak slide film, tends to be a bit cooler. Maybe a better choice for skys. This is true for most E-6 process film.
What type of film are you shooting?
quade
http://futurecam.com

[nacmacfeegle 0]

Try a UV or daylight filter as oppsoed to a polariser.
Cya
D

[flahive 0]

I have used both kodak and fuji print film, 100, 200, and 400 speed. I also have always used a UV filter on the lens. If it makes any difference the camera is a Nikon N70 w/ Nikon 24mm lens.

[Zlew 0]

2 most easy ways to get dark blue skies with print film:
Polarizer with the proper set up (takes more than just putting the filter on, but I assume u know that.
Second way...... Adobe Photo Shop. Don't think the big dogs dont use it!!! I might post back and show u an example
Z

[Zlew 0]

I did these in 5 mins. real brash, but just to show u a little of what can be done. again, i only spet a few mins on this. this is the real one first, then the photoshop version.

[Zlew 0]

Photoshop

[quade 3]

Actually, a polarizing filter isn't a bad choice, especially in bright sunlight. It should only knock down the light by 2 stops. You can compensate for that by opening up one stop and slowing the shutter by 1/2. Not really that big of a deal.
The most important thing is that you have to understand how to get the most benefit out of it or otherwise you're just wasting the light.
The first concept to understand is that the part of the sky that gets polarized the most, is the part of the sky perpendicular or 90 degress off axis to the Sun. So, if you have your back to the Sun, it's probably not the best.
Make an "L" with your thumb and first finger. Ya know, like when your buddies flash you the loser sign. Point your thumb at the Sun and you can then rotate your hand and have your first finger track the parts of the sky that are the most polarized.
Next, you'll have to rotate the polarizing filter so that it makes the sky as dark as possible.
Ok, these are the angles you'll have to shoot while in freefall! So, uh, good luck with that!
It can be done.
quade
http://futurecam.com

[quade 3]

And this was shot with Fuji Provia 100F color reversal (slide) film.
<------ See Attached.
NO color correction has been made to this image.
quade
http://futurecam.com

[skreamer 1]

Quote

Ok, these are the angles you'll have to shoot while in freefall!

Was doing bit of research and came across this thread. I use a UV filter on my lens but have recently bought a polarizing filter just to play around with. I appreciate that it won't be a good idea for most skydiving photo opportunities.

However, here is my question : on a bright, sunny summer's day, wouldn't you be able to get some good effects if you use the polarizing filter around noon? Logic being that you wouldn't have to worry about the 90 degree rule since the sun is directly overhead. (I appreciate that exit shots would probably be a washout). Also worth mentioning that I photograph freeflying so am generally on a level with my subject.
Has anybody tried this or got any thoughts? (apart from don't waste your time/film with a polarizing filter )

Will

[quade 3]

Well, you could always do some tests and report your results here.

quade -
The World's Most Boring Skydiver

[rfarris 1]

The only true answer to a correct exposure is the "sunny f/16 rule". That is to say, on a sunny day, set your lens aperature to f/16. Set your shutter speed to what ever your film speed is. For example: if you are using 400 iso fim, set your aperature to f/16 and set your shutter speed to 1/500. (The closest to 400)
This will give you good exposure no matter what.

It won't always give you a dark blue sky though.

You could do like the cheaters and use Photoshop to get the results you like. Or you could use a Polarizer filter. Using the filter is a hit and miss chance though. In freefall, more than likely you will miss.

Your best results are going to be from using slide film, using the sunny f/16 rule, and shooting lots of film. To get a deeper blue sky with slide film, you need more saturation. To get more saturation with slide film, you need to under expose 1/2 to a full stop.

Using negative film, your results are not going to be as good as with slide film.

When you under expose negative film, you will get dull grainy prints, like the one's you are getting now.

Next time out, load up some Kodachrome 100. You will notice the difference.

It's all in the film.

Have fun
Cya
Rod