Canopy Control Drills

[skycamefalling 0]

Ok, so now that I have my own rig, I really want to put a huge focus on canopy control. I have no intentions on down sizing anytime soon and really want to learn everything that my canopy can do (sabre2 210). I did a search for canopy control drills and found nothing useful really. I did read Billvons write up on things to be able to do with your canopy before you should consider down sizing.

So I plan on spending a few days doing nothing but H&P soon and would like to know what other canopy control drills you guys do to really get the most out of your canopy. I normally do H&P at 3k, but do not feel that is a suitable amount of altitude. What altitude would you suggest getting out at? I also plan on doing a canopy control class as soon as one pops up fairly close by.

Speedracer~I predict that Michael Jackson will rise from the dead.
And that a giant radioactive duck will emerge from the ocean and eat Baltimore.

[AggieDave 6]

Get out at 5k, pull once you're clear, then you'll have a bit more time to work on canopy control. Getting out on top and pulling out the door gives you a "little" more time as well.

What I teach is that everything you do and will do for landing (even top level competitive swooping) is based on the pattern and getting into the holding area to get to your pattern. Learning about winds aloft and spotting will help you get the holding area to the pattern stuff down better.


The following is a very quick run down, it takes me most of the day with jumps to teach the how/why/when/what regarding everything surrounding these drills, so this will just give you an idea, not the whole picture. These are also only two of the drills that I have my students do. It would be a bit much to type out everything that is taught in a day, surrounding all 5 jumps of what is taught.

Now for drills. The first thing you should think about at this point are stalls. Toggle stalls and rear riser stalls. Rear riser stalls will teach you a lot about your canopy and what it can do, especially if you think you'll ever land on rears (like if you break a control line on opening or similar). Toggle stalls will teach you where your canopy "breaks" into a stall. That is important for the next drill. The next drill would be to learn about flat turns. Try to turn your canopy 180 degrees in the least amount of altitude. The goal I set for a lot of people (when on an intermediate canopy loaded lightly, like a Sabre2 at 1.1 or so) is to turn 180 degrees in 50ft of altitude.

Those flat turn drills WILL save your life some day! Your toggles will be between your ears and a stall, either pushing down on one side, up on the other or both to turn. What works best for you on your canopy at your wing loading is something you will have to find out for yourself. You have to know where your canopy stalls to be able to do this, if you're flying on the edge of a stall, you can stall out one side of your canopy by pushing it on the edge.

Those two drills will teach you a lot about what your canopy can and can't do and how to save your life when presented with something out of the ordinary.

Now, go to a canopy coach and go through a good canopy course that involves some theory and some practical application. It doesn't have to be me, just choose someone who is well regarded. Ian is one of the first people I would approach to recommend someone (or just get him).

--"When I die, may I be surrounded by scattered chrome and burning gasoline."

[skycamefalling 0]

Cool. Thanks for the advice. So when I try to stall my canopy using toggles, I am pulling them both down to the point of where I can not go any more and holding them till my canopy buckles in to a horseshoe shape and then release? And then same goes for using rears?

Speedracer~I predict that Michael Jackson will rise from the dead.
And that a giant radioactive duck will emerge from the ocean and eat Baltimore.

[polarbear 1]

I would echo Dave on the flat turns and stalls...those are both good things to do. It's a little hard to describe fully all the things you can work on on an internet forum, so a good idea would be to find a good canopy coach at your DZ you can work with. They can explain things more fully.

Given that, three other skills I think you can work on are:

1) Learning to use brakes and rear risers to maximize your glide or minimize your sink. The SIM talks about both of these. Minimizing your sink means flying in deep brakes; so once you have learned where your canopy breaks into a stall on toggles, spend some time flying around just above that stall configuration. Make some flat turns, fly straight, but just in general the idea is to lose as little altitude as possible. People sometimes are afraid of deep brakes, becasue everything gets quiet, the toggles feel mushy, and you know you are close to the stall point. Practicing builds confidence. As always, a canopy coach can help you learn this.

Maximum glide probably means light brakes or some rear riser, but it depends on the wind conditions. Best way to try this out is to get out and try it...try different brake and rear riser configurations and see what allows you to go the farthest. If you don't already know it, ask someone at your DZ about 'the accuracy trick'. This will help you determine exactly where your canopy is headed on the ground, so as you add brakes or rear riser you can tell what gets you the furthest. Once again, a canopy coacjh can help.

Also realize that the maximum glide configuration will depend on winds...you can get the furthest glide in a strong tailwind doing one thing while you might have to do something else in a light crosswind and something else in a headwind.

2) Practice flaring. Go through the drills in the SIM for flaring...try fast flares, slow flares, and in between flares. Look for the flare speed that gives you the most sustained lift...again, the SIM explains it in more detail and a good canopy coach can help you out. Also work on flying your canopy all the way to the slowest possible airspeed before touching down, which will give you the softest landing if you do it right. This means 'finishing' the flare...flying the canopy all the way until the you have the toggles as far down as possible without the canopy going into a full stall. Practicing up high builds muscle memory.

You can also practice flares up high to keep your hands even and the canopy flying straight ahead during the flare...many people flare unevenly, which causes the canopy to turn during the flare and gives a harder landing. Lots of practice up high builds muscle memory and will help you do it right on an actual landing.

3) Work on getting a solid landing pattern down. Learn the points over the ground where you enter the pattern, where you turn on base, and where you turn on final. Know where these points are over the ground and at what altitude they are. Learn how to adjust the pattern for different winds. Best way to do this is plan your pattern on the ground, go up and fly it, see where you land, and adjust so that you hit your target.

"Holy s*** that was f***in' cold!"

[skycamefalling 0]

Thanks for all of the advice. I definately had planned on talking with a canopy control coach and taking a course sometime soon. I am hoping before this next season starts to be able to take a course.

Speedracer~I predict that Michael Jackson will rise from the dead.
And that a giant radioactive duck will emerge from the ocean and eat Baltimore.

[davelepka 4]

Here's a copy of a post I made in another thread discussing the stall and stall point of a canopy. In addition to getting your lines set correctly, the following will also build a good deal of experience with slow flight.

From the other thread -

Quote

Open high on your next jump, and determine the stall point of your canopy.

Slowly pull both toggles down to full arms extension. The key in this manuver is to keep your hands even, and all movements slow and steady. When you feel the canopy being to rock back and stall, note your hand position, as this is the stall point.

Remember - slow, smooth movements entering and recovering from a stall. Do not get spooked by the stall and throw your hands all the way up, that will make it worse. Once the canopy beings to stall, you can stop it by easing your hands up tp a point just above the stall point. Once you see how nicely you can enter and depart from a stall, your fear of the stall should diminish. That's not to say you shouldn't fear stalling close the ground, that's pretty bad, but if you know the stall point, you can just avoid going there near the ground.

On the stall point - if you find you cannot stall your canopy at full arms extension, your steering lines might be too long. You want to be able to stall your canopy at fulls arms extension, but only when you're really streching to reach as far down as possible. The canopy should still fly when you're at a 'casual' full arms extension, but when you really extend yourself, it should go into the stall.

If you find that it stalls sooner than that, or not at all, speak to a rigger about adjusting your steering lines. Have them lengthed or shortened in 2" increments, and after each adjustment, locate the new stall point. Keep doing this until it's righ where you want it to be. Far enough down that you are unlikely to 'accidentally' stall the canopy at any time, but not so far down that you can't reach it when you really want to.

Once that's done, play with it until you are comfortable with the stall. Get to the point where you can tell the stall is coming before it happens. Work with it until you are no longer surprised or afraid of stalling the canopy, and it's just another flight mode you are in full control of.

Of course, you'll need to pull high for these types of manuvers, and you need to consult an instructor or senoir jumper on the load regarding your exit order and pull altitude. Be suer to check your spot, altitude and for traffic before and after each manuver, and stop all manuvers below 2500-ish ft, where you can shift your attention full time to traffic management and setting up for your landing.

[DocPop 1]

Quote

Ok, so now that I have my own rig, I really want to put a huge focus on canopy control.

I just wanted to say "Nice one".

It is a shame more people don't think like you.

"The ground does not care who you are. It will always be tougher than the human behind the controls."

~ CanuckInUSA

[shropshire 0]

Can I also add ...?


Before you commence ANY canopy manoeuvres.

Check around you .. for traffic

Check you altitude

and position relative to your LZ

Also, take note of how much altitude that you use during each manoeuvres.

Then - have fun.

(.)Y(.)
Chivalry is not dead; it only sleeps for want of work to do. - Jerome K Jerome

[AggieDave 6]

Quote

Can I also add ...?


Before you commence ANY canopy manoeuvres.

Check around you .. for traffic

Check you altitude

and position relative to your LZ

Also, take note of how much altitude that you use during each manoeuvres.

Then - have fun.

Absolutely!

When I'm teaching a course, I tell people that the hop-n-pops they are doing are specifically for canopy control work. If they take a long delay, they are hurting their ability to have the most time to work on the skills they need to work on. Also, if they are getting out and loosing track of where they are, what altitude they're at and don't make it back to their holding area and pattern in enough altitude, they aren't going to get on video (so no video debrief).

Also, if they're trying to do these drills in any sort of traffic, then their decision making tree has been compromised and no amount of canopy drills in the world will fix that!

--"When I die, may I be surrounded by scattered chrome and burning gasoline."

[shropshire 0]

(.)Y(.)
Chivalry is not dead; it only sleeps for want of work to do. - Jerome K Jerome

[skycamefalling 0]

Quote

Here's a copy of a post I made in another thread discussing the stall and stall point of a canopy. In addition to getting your lines set correctly, the following will also build a good deal of experience with slow flight.

From the other thread -

Quote

Open high on your next jump, and determine the stall point of your canopy.

Slowly pull both toggles down to full arms extension. The key in this manuver is to keep your hands even, and all movements slow and steady. When you feel the canopy being to rock back and stall, note your hand position, as this is the stall point.

Remember - slow, smooth movements entering and recovering from a stall. Do not get spooked by the stall and throw your hands all the way up, that will make it worse. Once the canopy beings to stall, you can stop it by easing your hands up tp a point just above the stall point. Once you see how nicely you can enter and depart from a stall, your fear of the stall should diminish. That's not to say you shouldn't fear stalling close the ground, that's pretty bad, but if you know the stall point, you can just avoid going there near the ground.

On the stall point - if you find you cannot stall your canopy at full arms extension, your steering lines might be too long. You want to be able to stall your canopy at fulls arms extension, but only when you're really streching to reach as far down as possible. The canopy should still fly when you're at a 'casual' full arms extension, but when you really extend yourself, it should go into the stall.

If you find that it stalls sooner than that, or not at all, speak to a rigger about adjusting your steering lines. Have them lengthed or shortened in 2" increments, and after each adjustment, locate the new stall point. Keep doing this until it's righ where you want it to be. Far enough down that you are unlikely to 'accidentally' stall the canopy at any time, but not so far down that you can't reach it when you really want to.

Once that's done, play with it until you are comfortable with the stall. Get to the point where you can tell the stall is coming before it happens. Work with it until you are no longer surprised or afraid of stalling the canopy, and it's just another flight mode you are in full control of.

Of course, you'll need to pull high for these types of manuvers, and you need to consult an instructor or senoir jumper on the load regarding your exit order and pull altitude. Be suer to check your spot, altitude and for traffic before and after each manuver, and stop all manuvers below 2500-ish ft, where you can shift your attention full time to traffic management and setting up for your landing.

Awesome write up on stalling your canopy. I will definately use that as a reference along with any advice a canopy coach has to offer me before I do any jumps to work on canopy control.

Speedracer~I predict that Michael Jackson will rise from the dead.
And that a giant radioactive duck will emerge from the ocean and eat Baltimore.

[Skydivesg 6]

Quote

Quote

Slowly pull both toggles down to full arms extension. The key in this manuver is to keep your hands even, and all movements slow and steady. When you feel the canopy being to rock back and stall, note your hand position, as this is the stall point.

Remember - slow, smooth movements entering and recovering from a stall. Do not get spooked by the stall and throw your hands all the way up, that will make it worse. Once the canopy beings to stall, you can stop it by easing your hands up tp a point just above the stall point.
***************************************************

One thing I teach to make stalls less scary and more manageable is to start with your hands and toggles on your hip bones (physically touching your hip bones). Then ease your hands down your thighs until you get to a full stall.

And here is the important part. Once you have stalled the canopy, let your hands come back up only to your hips again.
This allows the canopy to start flying again.

Most people let up too far and too fast. The canopy then surges forward and scares the shit out of you.

Practice this procedure several times on the ground and remind yourself in the air before starting the drill.

Be the canopy pilot you want that other guy to be.

• Quote

Share this post

---

Link to post

Share on other sites

[thrillstalker 0]

i am glad i learned flat turns early on. it has saved my ass already.

i turned onto final and the wind switched 180 degrees and was blowing me into the corner (trees right in front and a fence and road coming in diagonally, no outs).

had the wind not changed i would have been fine, but it did and i was almost fucked.

i was able to make a flat turn under 200feet (i was on final), i got about 3/4 of the flare because i didnt feel i had the time to get back under the canopy before i needed to flare, and i was at quarter brakes. i figured i could get most of the flare out of it, and that sounded better to me than pounding in while surging forward.

so yeah, flat turns can and one day will save your ass!

edited to add: a parachute and it's pilot is a great book to read. it taught me a lot of things i didnt know i didnt know.
http://www.amazon.com/Parachute-Its-Pilot-Ultimate-Ram-Air/dp/0977627721/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1294175330&sr=8-1

"Never grow a wishbone, where your backbone ought to be."

[Pulse 0]

I would also add to play with your canopy with the brakes still stowed for a little bit. Start a hard turn with a rear riser and see what happens. How long it takes for the canopy to stop on it's own.

Also, unstow only one toggle and try to correct. Sure, in 'real life' you might still choose to cutaway something. But this will give you a feel for getting it back under control to allow a little more time for your decision making. Over time it also adds to confidence (like all of these drills do) so you can better control a situation. Without any sort of panicked feelings.

"Any language where the unassuming word fly signifies an annoying insect, a means of travel, and a critical part of a gentleman's apparel is clearly asking to be mangled."