DIY question about LED lights

[SethInMI 145]

Because i don't want to join a DIY forum:

I am planning on finishing a unfinished basement. I want to install about 30 lights, most of them LED can lights. The lights are 16W each, so plenty below the 1200W that a 14GA 15A light circuit can handle, but some things I read say you have to use the housing rating, and it seems like a lot of the housings can take a screw in light module, so maybe they are 100W rated? I am having a hard time finding out the ratings for the housings. Has anyone put in a bunch of LED lights and put more than 12 on a circuit? Or does anyone know more about lots of LED lights on a light circuit?

 

 

 

[billvon 2,400]

3 hours ago, SethInMI said:

Because i don't want to join a DIY forum:

I am planning on finishing a unfinished basement. I want to install about 30 lights, most of them LED can lights. The lights are 16W each, so plenty below the 1200W that a 14GA 15A light circuit can handle, but some things I read say you have to use the housing rating, and it seems like a lot of the housings can take a screw in light module, so maybe they are 100W rated? I am having a hard time finding out the ratings for the housings. Has anyone put in a bunch of LED lights and put more than 12 on a circuit? Or does anyone know more about lots of LED lights on a light circuit?

You don't need much current at all for LED lights, and you can use thinner gauge wires for the wiring - as long as there is no way to use a standard bulb in the fixture.  For example, if you are installing sealed LED cans, you can choose your wire gauge based on rated current of each fixture.

However, if the fixtures can take screw in bulbs, the wiring has to be rated for the maximum fixture power times the number of fixtures.   The fixture will always have a max power rating somewhere on it.

 

[headoverheels 291]

In case you are using dimmers: a lot of dimmers limit the total wattage of LEDs to quite a bit less than the allowed incandescent wattage.  Not sure, but I think that it is related to surge current into the LED supply capacitance.  So, read the spec on the dimmer and the LEDs for any limitations of that type.

[PhreeZone 15]

9 hours ago, billvon said:

However, if the fixtures can take screw in bulbs, the wiring has to be rated for the maximum fixture power times the number of fixtures.   The fixture will always have a max power rating somewhere on it.

As Bill said if you are using the can fixture and are just going to install the screw in bulbs (any type LED or incandescent) you have to consider each fixture at roughly 100W. The better option is to get a sealed LED fixture like this to use instead. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia-Lighting-Wafer-6-in-White-Integrated-LED-Recessed-Kit-WF6-LED-30K-120-MW-HP18-M6/303722031

With this you then get to count the fixtures at 13w each and can put your 30 on a single circuit. Also keep in mind any outlets need to count at 100 watts at least.

Issue is you need drywall ceilings to mount the lights into - wire first and then cut the hole and they snap into it.

[SethInMI 145]

2 hours ago, PhreeZone said:

Issue is you need drywall ceilings to mount the lights into - wire first and then cut the hole and they snap into it.

That system would work, but the drywall first would be annoying, as I would like to get the lights in well before the ceiling goes up. In addition, part of the basement is going to be a workshop, and I'd rather not trouble with finishing the ceiling in that room. So I could cut some 1/2" plywood mounting "plates" for the workshop and just put a few temp ones up in the other spaces until the ceiling goes in.

Edited April 2, 2019 by SethInMI

[SethInMI 145]

9 hours ago, headoverheels said:

In case you are using dimmers: a lot of dimmers limit the total wattage of LEDs to quite a bit less than the allowed incandescent wattage.  Not sure, but I think that it is related to surge current into the LED supply capacitance.  So, read the spec on the dimmer and the LEDs for any limitations of that type.

There are enough rooms that no dimmer will control more than 14 lights which I think is ok, but I have to check with the final selection.

[SethInMI 145]

4 hours ago, PhreeZone said:

Issue is you need drywall ceilings to mount the lights into - wire first and then cut the hole and they snap into it.

I just realized the big benefit of this method is you don't have to lineup the already mounted can with the hole you cut in the drywall. As long as you are close to the junction box, stay within the joists, and line up with your other holes you are good.

[PhreeZone 15]

2 hours ago, SethInMI said:

I just realized the big benefit of this method is you don't have to lineup the already mounted can with the hole you cut in the drywall. As long as you are close to the junction box, stay within the joists, and line up with your other holes you are good.

Correct - basically you prewire the lights and their transformers and can use something like the 1/2 plywood sheet to put them up for the working phase but when you are ready to drywall all you have to do is unplug the light, slap up drywall and then use a circle cutter to create a hole. Reach into the hole, plug the light back in and snap it into the hole you just cut out and its finished. No more having to hold the sheet up while trying to mark out the can in the ceiling, taking it down to cut it and then finding out you were off by 1/2 inch and now you hope to hide it all under the trim. I have been there and done that one before and it sucks. For the workshop area drywall the ceiling there too. It prevents dust from settling up in the joists and just finishes easier. Only reason not to do it is if you are going to need full access to those areas all the time in which a cheap drop ceiling will be ideal or if you are working with oily materials that will stain the walls and ceilings (machine shop setup)

 

Also these are direct wire - no junction boxes needed usually.

[SethInMI 145]

 

On 4/2/2019 at 9:41 AM, PhreeZone said:

the better option is to get a sealed LED fixture like this to use instead.

I put up 8 of these in my workshop, they were very easy to install and light up the area just fine. The dimmer I wired them to can drive up to 150w of LED lights, so it was ok with 8.

The dimmer was designed for LEDs, and was recommended on the lights, but event so it causes the light drivers to hum a noticeable amount. I think in a finished space with drywall up and even some insulation in the ceiling i can block the humming.

 

[SethInMI 145]

Not sure why you are replying to a three year old post, but claudie I worry you are a scammer or a bot or something.  Regardless, I got a trip down memory lane just now, so thanks for that.

I miss PhreeZone, he was a weath of knowledge.

I long ago finished the space, and am happy how it turned out. 7 rooms, about 1900 sq ft, lit with 24-ish LED lights, just like Phree recommended.