DSE

What you're asking about is called "pass thru" and the PC series cams provide this. Set the cam to VCR mode, and then firewire to PC/Mac. Be sure to turn off DV Scene detection in your capture app, and you may need to disable DV Deck control depending on the app. If you need a tutorial, http://www.vasst.com/training/ohci.htm has one that should give you any additional information you might need. HTH

Nope, you're missing nothing. The WinDV program doesn't buffer frames though, and bear in mind that capture isn't buffered at cam either, so you could lose a couple frames. Products like DVRack and Revolution buffer frames during capture, assuring nothing is lost. Free is good, but might cost you a few lost frames.

The part is the RM-VD1, I'd suggest B&H, talk to Joshua or perhaps Barry over there. As far as useful quality of the 4MP image, it's quite good, but bear in mind that it's processed from a lesser grade lens, so if you're used to a nice 4MP DSLR or so, it's not going to compare, but still...very useful. The NY Times printed a pic from the HC3 we took, and they were surprised it came from a video cam, FWIW.

Absolutely you can. In fact, using RedRock's Revolution, you can record to HDD with a laptop as your "field monitor." In the PC world, there is also DV Rack that allows for this with either HDV or DV. Use a long firewire cable and you'll be great. I've not tried this with my Mac and long cable, but do it almost daily with a PC and long cable.

It's a little wide. As Cookie points out, he's about got his ready to go, andI'm sure it'll be great. Bonehead has theirs close to go too, and it looks great. I dunno about the heavier, I'm wondering if Cookie is using the larger battery? It's lighter, I think, than the PC109 is? lower profile, but slightly wider. and the LANC is somewhat inconvenient for side mount. Be sure to put on at least a UV filter, the issue RedKite pointed out a while back happened to a buddy of mine using an HC3 on a roadbike, the lens cover shimmied in the wind. Putting on anything that blocks that lens cover repairs the problem instantly.

I think it's pretty realistic to build your own, or purchase the Sony remote and rewire it to fit your own needs. Might take a little doing, but I'm sure some enterprising person will quickly figure it out. I've not tried to take mine apart yet, as I'm not shooting stills with the HC3. Although...I've taken ground stills, and been extremely impressed with what I got.

You've likely exceeded 0dBFS in your output. Are you viewing meters in VU or FS mode? Digital audio has no forgiveness, your max level shouldn't be higher than -03dB, and not even that if you think your DVDs will be playing on older, oversampled DVD players. Leave yourself a minimum of 1dB headroom at most times. You might try downloading the demo of iZotope, it will work in Premiere for 2 weeks, and that will really help get your audio tamed down.

Virtually all ISP's offer a streaming server these days, but you're right, Helix is just about zeroed out. At identical bitrates sub 256, Flash is substantially superior to WMV. VC1 is better, but it doesn't look look at low bandwidth either. A lot of the quality encoding experience is content-dependent as well. Remember that any anomoly in the original is amplified significantly during encode. AVC (which is part of the MPEG 4 part 10 spec) is what the iPod vids are using, but it's not a ubiquitous codec, and won't play in most software or hardware devices. In other words, unlike wmv, it won't play virtually anywhere unless you've got QT or QT Alternative. Back to point, encode mp4 and wmv at identical bitrates sub 512Kpbs, and you'll find the wmv is superior if it's WM9 or newer. The DCT blocks allow for greater pixel counts and better deblocking of the frame data. Once you get above 1Mbps tho, wmv quickly loses the advantage unless embedding metadata is important. Microsoft still rules the metadata world for ease of use.

Very, very cool! The only thing that would be missing for shooting other skydivers (if you wanted to do so) is an articulated arm such as an Israeli arm. This would allow you to point the camera parallel to your body, but if you're not looking for that, then you've got exactly what you need. Great design, and the cutaway is brilliant. Sounds like you've got a great dad, too.

Depends on the format you want to output. WMV-Widest user base possible, has very good quality at low bitrates, easy/free to encode to (you have the encoder already in PP2) Or you can use the free windows encoder. or Squeeze, or Procoder. REAL-Yikes. Small user base these days, but some folks still want it. The encoder is free, again...you have this already installed. REAL shot themselves in the foot, IMO, with their very aggressive installer. QT-QT is a different animal, because it can contain so many codecs in the stream. Unfortunately, all of the QT-capable codecs excepting one are pretty weak in quality at low bitrates, such as 512Kpbs or less, so QT isn't a good option for low bandwidth stuff unless you're hand-coding. (VERY expensive) MPG4 in QT is quite good, you'll need to buy the professional version of QT/Quicktime Pro. I believe it's only 30.00. MP4 is rapidly heading towards the future of playback over the web, but currently has a small userbase. Flash-Flash is exceptionally popular for play over the web, and offers high quality, while also offering dual platform support. Lots of video to Flash encoders out there, Flix is very good, as is SwishFlix. Flash 8 does this as well, of course. Check with your ISP to see what their servers are set up to serve. If they have Helix, you can stream anything. If they're Win2K only, you'll be setting up everything but WMV as a download vs a stream.

The HC3 can take stills for storage on a separate card without interrupting the video. However, to do it while skydiving, you have a couple options. 1. Buy their LANC remote that has a photo and video start switch and hand operate both (it's wired) or 2. Build your own LANC switch that has a separate bite switch and video on/off switch so you can have two separate points of initiation for the camera functions.

HC1-discontinued, but has a slightly larger body, better imager, but not so much as you'd notice unless shooting chip charts. HC3-Useless for anything but skydiving and family video, as it has less than stellar mics, and no external mic input. Has HDMI, which is very nice for consumer use. I've reviewed both: HC3- http://www.vasst.com/search.aspx?text=HC3 HC1- http://www.vasst.com/resource.aspx?id=bca2be14-753a-4fb8-b927-1f95b3c448da For skydiving, the newly announced AVCHD cams might be of use. I've got a pre-production UX, but am not permitted to comment on it until it's in production. Bear in mind they're both AVC HD, and that the UX records to DVD, and the SG records to HDD. Neither storage format is optimal, and AVCHD at it's best still isn't HD currently. There are rumblings that Panasonic might make an AVCHD -I, which is "Intra" camcorder at an as-yet unannounced bitrate, but probably around 50Mbps, but at best this is at least a year away, and knowing Panasonic, more like 18 months. Additionally, as of this moment, there is only one NLE capable of editing the AVC HD format. IMO, the HC3 is a great skydiving camcorder. Fabulous third gen DSP, small and lightweight, capable of 4MP stills while recording video. Since you don't really need good audio for skydiving other than pre/post tandem interviews...it's a good choice. I personally prefer the A1, but that's because we have several, and there are a few small benefits for the less common work we're doing with them.

I don't think I can add anything to what Drew and Joe said, but suffice it to say that union or no...it's a good plan and practice to demand equity for camera flyers.

this is a terrific article, and exceptionally informative. Many of the things discussed are topics that are "taboo" outside the union. Thanks, Joe!

That helps a lot. More than that, it caused me to realize that f2.4 on a .8" sensor is close to the same as 1.2 on a .25 sensor anyway, so I can see why f2.8 is just fine, and will provide an approximate focal length. Thx for the help! Although I'm a good 500.00 over where I wanted to be, I've got a much nicer camera to work with now.

If you look at all bids on it, they're all "protected name" bids. Apparently the guy is bidding it up himself.

Thought we were talking about our skydiving world in this forum. We are. You read something in my post that made you think I didn't understand DOF. My question was if there is a lens for the XT that can open to 1.4 or even 1.2, or heck, i'd probably be happy with 2.0, so that when I'm *not* skydiving, it would be equally useful. I'd imagine that shooting around f8 gives you a great close to infinity shooting a focal length of around 28mm or so, but if the lens kit is only f3.5 I'd like something more opened up for day to day/field use, or for when I'm on the ground shooting landings. Should I just shut up and buy the lens kit, and then seek out what lenses are best? At a max of f3.5, I'd imagine the C/A is pretty prevalent?

I guess you don't use Angenieux lenses. I don't believe they make still lenses, but they might. 11.5 isn't an Fstop, it's a model#.

Just like what's been said about a DSLR in that you get what you pay for, the same can be said for the lens as well. Don't skimp and go for 'cheap' with the glass you buy. Personally, I like the Canon 20mm, but you'll hear alot of different opinions as the day progresses. (I hate the kit lens....IMHO it's crap. I only keep it in case I want to sell my 300D in the future as a complete package). On the issue of DOF....remember the -higher- numbered f/stop gives you the longer DOF. Not the other way around. The lower number f/stop gives you a shorter DOF but better ability in low light. If you choose to travel down this road, with quality product, be prepared to spend the $$.

Always interested!

Do you have DiskWarrior? In addition to adding at least another 512MB, you might run DW as well.

And how much light you have. The kit lens doesn't like low light at all. ltdiver Is the kit lens the lens that only opens to F3.5? If so, that's a real surprise. Anyone got a recommendation for something that will at least open to 1.8, pref 1.2? If I'm gonna spend the extra cash on a DSLR, I might as well get something I can pull off my helmet and use in regular life, and DOF is always important to me with vid, so I'd probably want the same for stills.

I'd like to spend the xtra, but truth is, the only thingk i'm interested in taking stills of is my daughter, who is just completing her A license. It's not for clients, I'm just not a stills guy. I like having my 30 shots in a second, thanks. But...a 10d for 500.00...that's worth looking into. I was probably going to rig a second helmet just for stills since I've got a couple spare Mindwarps, but I could mount the 10 to the front of my FTP, I guess. Heading over to classifieds now. just hope the wife doesn't notice.

WAY outta my cost bracket for what I want to do. Rebel XT is around a grand with the lens, yeah? I'm hoping to be in the 200.00 range.

Are there any low end digital still cams with a remote that can shoot reasonable frame speeds such as a couple shots a second? I've heard rumor that the Elph can be modded pretty easily. I'm not a still photographer, but have had a few occasions where I'd like better than 2mp shots. Maybe one day I'll step up to DSLR, but for the moment, small and easy is what I'd like. Suggestions?