HookSky

The first thing I would like to point you to is the thread http://www.dropzone.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=295076;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;forum_view=forum_view_collapsed;;page=unread#unread. There isn't any rush to downsize you can learn alot from really understanding how a canopy flies. Do you feel you can fly your current fly to it's max ?

At the moment Gary I am try to be smooth with everything to keep the speed, if I do manage to get the risers in time, it seems that when to transfer back to your toggles from your risers it a quick sharp movement - or should it still be smooth ? Mike.

At my DZ I have noticed that the guys jumping the Velocities hold their back risers as they plane out and then just at the end, flare with their toggles. I was wondering if anyone has tried this technique with a Stiletto, would it work with all canopies or only the heavy loaded ultra high performance canopies ? and whether it would actually increases the swoop. (135 @ 1.6) Mike

It may be worth checking the A lines to see how much shrinkage they have, if it the same then new lines sounds like a good idea. However if it's a couple of inches less, then a rigger can lengthen the bottom part of the steering lines. The steering lines can shrink slightly quicker owing to the motion of the slider. Normally the lines should last for about 800 jumps, although if you have 550 microlines these will tend shrink quicker, When I replaced mine I put 825 lines on. Mike.

A Left min 90 max 180 carve. 1150 jumps in total, 400 on Stiletto 135, 50 on Sabre2 135 wing loading 1.6.

Like most people in the UK I put one on at 200 which is the minimium here. I have used it for videoing organised loads, 4-way and as a recorder when I am actually part of the jump. Stills can a little later. Mike.

I setup my own protec for both a side-mount video and stills on the top, with Tony Danbury's help. Are you wishing to get into camera work or is it just going to be used as a recorder for your jumps ? Mike.

you could have a look at Pinnacle's website http://www.pinnaclesys.com/. I use a DC30 which is an older card and has analogue and S-VHS input and ouput. I have always been pleased with the results. Mike.

Hi Mick, How you Doing !! Look forward to seeing you again at the weekend !! Mike

Thanks again for the input ! Last week I increased the length of my toggles by 2 inches. This has made the flare and riser control much smoother, the riser pressure was a little less and it did dive for a bit longer. But I have only done a couple of jumps with it since the change. I am thinking of increasing them one more inch, as the lines are going to shrink, and I still have plenty available when I am in the full flare. Cheers, Mike.

When I first had my Stiletto 135 the steering lines were doing just that. Your best better is to get the correct line lengths from the manufacturer and measure them, if they are 5-6 inches shorter (normally the A and steering lines are the worst) I would get a new set of lines. However, if you speak to a rigger he should be able to lengthen the toggles as temporary measure. Mike.

Also do you untwist your brake lines once in awhile - if you don't then the twists in the brake lines can really shorten them and more than likely they won't be even - my left line always get twists in it alot more than my right.

Thanks all for the input, I didn't think it would be a quick and easy process and small increments makes alot sense. Once I 've got the Sabre2 sorted I may as well check the old Stiletto too !

Hi Gary I thought it might be ! Last weekend I had an opportunity to look at it - I am tninking of trying 2 inches longer than the factory setting and see were that gets me.

I recently bought a Sabre2 135, and it has been pointed out to me that when I pull on my front risers the toggle is pulling the tail of the canopy down. Is there any easy way to workout the correct length of the steer lines or is it just a case of trial and error plus experience of doing it ?