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Bowen

The Ultimate 2K Composites camera helmet!!

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First off, huge thanks to Matt Hover for assembling my helmet. I could never have done it with the patience and precision that you have put in to it. It is perfect in every way.

So here is what I have:

Helmet: 2K Composites. FF3
Camcorder: Sony HC-5
Camcorder lens: Raynox 0.50
Still camera: Canon EOS 40D
Still camera lens: Canon 10-22
Still mount: Really Right Stuff
Ring sight: Concentric
Bracket: Schumacher removable
Audible: (2) Neptune
Cameye
Digital tongue switch

The only thing I am not thrilled about is the Schumacher bracket. The same hole is used for the nylon screw as well as the thumbscrew to hold the two plates together. It will only thread about 3/4th of a turn. I am afraid I will loose the ring sight in free fall. Maybe Terry will make a longer screw.

Because of the Really Right Stuff L-plate on the 40D I can switch between landscape and portrait.

All in all it’s 7.25 pounds.

Thanks Matt….


-Bowen
Retired Tunnel Instructor, Sky/Tunnel Coach

Former dealer for 2k Composites, Skysystems, Alti-2, Wings

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Nice looking brain bucket, but the dude you got modeling it looks all fucked up and dweeb like, lucky the camera didn't break taking his ugly mugshot.:P



dont I know it. thats one fucked up pic of me. I am usually not that fug. It really wore me down watching Matt work so hard. I was pooped at the end of the day:P
Retired Tunnel Instructor, Sky/Tunnel Coach

Former dealer for 2k Composites, Skysystems, Alti-2, Wings

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I just added the removable sight bracket to my FF2. Had the same concern about how little thread sticks through. Seems to hold fine, but it really only seems to take about a quarter turn or maybe less to loosen it. I guess I'll just have to make sure it's properly lined up and tightened all the way. Seems solid. Hopefully I'll be able to try it out in the air tomorrow.

Does yours stick a bit in the locked position? Sometimes mine's really hard to pull out to rotate it out of the way. I just don't like pulling on it so hard because of the nylon screws...

Dave

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Hey Dave,

Mine is not hard to pull out.

Do me a favor and try to screw the thumbscrew into the base bracket without the sight on.

Thanks,
Bowen
Retired Tunnel Instructor, Sky/Tunnel Coach

Former dealer for 2k Composites, Skysystems, Alti-2, Wings

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What is the point of having a removable ring sight when you have a snag factor like that top mount stills?

When did it become acceptable to have such snag happy helmets, and how wide a video camera is going to have to be before they realize that they are not side mountable any more?

Like your enthusiasm, but the implementation seriously leaves something to be desired.
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You're not as good as you think you are. Seriously.

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Whats the removability of the sight have to do with anything snagging? Nylon screws make it frangible... But it's also removable so you can jump without it or remove it when storing the helmet. I let someone else jump my camera helmet every once in a while... Wouldn't want that person using a ringsight though, so it's nice to be able to remove it. It attaches right back on without having to be sighted in again.

Dave

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The thumbscrew doesn't go into the hole... only the very tip, where it's chamfered, barely fits in the hole. That's all it needs though... It's got no play so it can't go anywhere. I just hope that thumbscrew stays tight and doesn't back itself off. Seems like it'll be fine... one more thing to check before exit though.

Dave

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Is that a rhetorical question?

The point of a breakaway ringsight doesn't change just because there are other potential snag points.

How many people have died because of ringsight snags? (I can think of two off the top of my head). How many because of snags with any other part of a camera helmet? (I don't know of any). Have you seen the stuff people were using 9 years ago? These have way fewer snag points, plus a cutaway system in case it does happen.

I'm not saying that a line couldn't snag on the still camera... but its still a much cleaner setup than what a lot of people are jumping. I do wish they'd build them with a much bigger flat top though. I don't know why they put that tiny little flat spot on them when they know the only thing anybody will mount up there is a big SLR. A flush mounted quick release would be nice too... FF4 maybe?

Dave

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What is the point of having a removable ring sight when you have a snag factor like that top mount stills?



I thought this was pretty obvious, but here goes. The reason to have a removable ring sight, is so that you can remove it when you don't want jump with it.

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When did it become acceptable to have such snag happy helmets



Probably when people decided to mount cameras on top of their helmets. A still camera IS a snag hazard by definition, plain and simple. That 40D isn't any more "snaggable" than every SLR/FTP setup I've ever seen. And in any case, you have do be doing something incredibly fucked up with your head to actually get lines to go in those places. I know a CRW guy who had an FTP that any freefall photographer would say looked almost snag free. However every time he got in a wrap his helmet tangled too. He eventually created a custom job where the cameras were encased in foam and he looked like a big conehead. Literally snag free. Point is, go take your helmet which you apparently think is so snag free and stick your head through some lines on deployment. I guarantee you'll get tangled.

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Like your enthusiasm, but the implementation seriously leaves something to be desired.



I also admire your enthusiasm to point out what you perceive as flaws, but your post also seriously leaves something to be desired - it lacks any constructive comments. Now that you've finished pointing out everything you DON'T like, how about describing what you'd do different, and why it would be so far superior?
www.WingsuitPhotos.com

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The point of a breakaway ringsight doesn't change just because there are other potential snag points.



Moreover, the point of removing your ringsight isn't to remove snag hazard. I happen to know that Bowen will remove the ringsight for freefly jumps, where he ONLY has video (no stills on top), flies with a wide lens, doesn't NEED a ringsight, and doesn't WANT one in front of his eye... not for snag reasons, but simply because he wants both eyes free for focusing on the jump and having the video there as a jump recorder. There is absolutely nothing wrong with that idea.

Mode 1 (tandem) : SLR on top, DV on side, ringsight

Mode 2 (freefly fun jump) : DV on side, super wide lens

One helmet, two setups, made easier with the removable ringsight. It's not that hard to understand.
www.WingsuitPhotos.com

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I do wish they'd build them with a much bigger flat top though. I don't know why they put that tiny little flat spot on them when they know the only thing anybody will mount up there is a big SLR. A flush mounted quick release would be nice too... FF4 maybe?



My thoughts exactly. The 2K sideFX does have a bigger flat top. Shouldn't be that hard to combine the FF3 and sideFX molds.

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but its still a much cleaner setup than what a lot of people are jumping.



That's the scariest part of all this. People just keep making more dangerous helmet setups, and no one says anything, so the next wanna-be camera guy comes along and figures it must be okay.

I am sure the original poster is very proud of his work, and thinks it is okay. I think it is very ill-conceived (sorry, that's just my opinion, I hope you take it well). That is a huge protusion on the side of the helmet, and the still camera has snag points on all the three sides I can see. If you want to mount something on top of a helmet, get a helmet that is designed well for that hardware. (I might guess that the manufacturer designed that little flat spot on top for a PC-type camcorder or a bullet-cam, but that doesn't make much sense if you have a side-mount box too).

Recommendations? Well, think things through ahead of time, and include what equipment you plan on putting up there before picking a helmet. Get the advice with someone who is more safety concious than yourself (that may throw out the old recommendation of asking "other camera flyers at your DZ"). Get a helmet suited for what you want to mount on it. Make, or have someone make, deflectors/spacers/whatever to minimize the places lines can get caught (under that huge lens, on both sides of the SLR, by the W/A video lens, etc.).

There is also a difference between Norm Kent jumping a huge well thought out large film rig, and some B-License skydiver simply buying a bunch of stuff and throwing it on a stock helmet for the weekend. Yes, many camera helmets are snap-prone. Many could be made much better though, and this doesn't pass muster...IMHO

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I agree it is less than optimal, but I don't think it's a death-trap... and given the current options I'm not sure what Bowen could have done differently other than going top-mount (which he definitely did not want to do, but which is obviously my preference).

See attached picture. A very experienced camera flyer and forum poster on here posted this a year or two ago (I save all camera setup pics I see, for ideas). He said he had just switched to this setup after making thousands of FTP jumps, and was very happy with this new sidemount setup. This has just as many if not more snag point than Bowen's, and when this pic was posted there were not people chiming in left and right about all the snag points. (No offense to the poster who's setup this is, who I am using for an example).

Sure, Bowen doesn't have the experience of the guy above or of Norman Kent, but he does know what risks he's taking, and he did think it all through. We talked this over for several hours a few months back. Sidemounting an HC5 is questionable (sidemounting anything is in my book) but this helmet is probably the best way to do it if you're set on it. Top-mounting the 40D with the RRS QRS adds a bit to the "snag factor" but even with the camera flush on the top plate there is still a massive potential on either side of the camera... the extra height given by the QRS just adds a small bit of length to the back of the "gullies".

Once more, he knows what risks he's taking, and he has a cutaway on the helmet AND a quick release lever for the SLR which he has already shown me he can reach in flight. How many here can jettison their SLR by itself, if for some strange reason they can't (or just don't want to) jettison the whole helmet? His primary reason for going sidemount was that he didn't want a bunch of weight on top of (above) his head, which is the exact reason the above poster (with the attached picture setup) swapped from his years of FTP use back to an "inferior" sidemount setup. It's not my choice, but it's a valid one.
www.WingsuitPhotos.com

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From looking at the pics, the still could have easily been de-snagged.

Houw about flush mounting the quick release, and moving the whole thing over so it doesn't hang over the right side? Sure, you would have to remove the still to open the video box, but that's what a 'quick' release is for.

An alternate idea is to mount the still to a plate, and attach the plate to the top of the helmet. This is how Wes mounts everything to the top of a CCM.

As before, move the whole works over so there's no overhang on the right. Also, as before, just remove the plate to open the box.

Either one of these ideas would clean that still situation up 99%.

Just because you built the thing doesn't mean it's right. I'm sure you're proud of your work, but how many camera helmets have you built? In truth, I'mnot even sure that's a factor because each set-up is so different.

I've been jumping the same helmet for about 8 years, and have gone through 6 or 7 configurations. Each time I finished one, I thought it was bulletproof, but by the end of the season, I came up with alternate ideas, and went back to work.

I'll never forget the time I just finished version 2.0, and was jumping it in Deland. I was happy as hell with it, when Gus Wing walks over and says, 'What the hell is that? Look at all these snag points you've got here. When you're on your back at 1000ft watching your reserve come over your shoulder, you're going to wish that was cleaner. Get in the hanger, pull out your gaffers tape, and clean that thing up.'

Your helemt can never be too clean. The worst thing you can do is build it, and not listen to advice about making it better.

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The still can be moved left or right. The base plate is a clamp. I could and will move the still over about 1.5 inches. I just slapped it in there and took a pic.

yeah its not a skinny mini set up but I do have a quick release on the still and a cutaway on the helmet.

the clamshell is designed to deflect. in my opinion it is safer than a standard D-box or a L plate

everyone has there own opinions and I do see the concerns. Thanks to everyone for their positive and negative comments. I wouldn't mined a FT but I mostly freefly so I wanted to set something up for multiple apps.

-Bowen
Retired Tunnel Instructor, Sky/Tunnel Coach

Former dealer for 2k Composites, Skysystems, Alti-2, Wings

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I really don't know what this myth about FT's and freeflying not going together is all about.


I have no problem with it. Jason Peters, arguably one of the best freefly photogs, has no problem with it........
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You're not as good as you think you are. Seriously.

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Houw about flush mounting the quick release, and moving the whole thing over so it doesn't hang over the right side?



I'm guessing that by "flush mount" the QRS, you mean somehow embed it in the top of the helmet? Not possible as it would interfere with the user's head.

As far as moving the camera over, it doesn't hang over the right side any more than it hangs over the left. The camera body is centered. Why on earth would you want to make the helmet even more unbalanced? It's already weighted to the left, because of the sidemount video... if you slide the still camera over to the left now you are WAY off balance. Sounds like great neck care.

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An alternate idea is to mount the still to a plate, and attach the plate to the top of the helmet. This is how Wes mounts everything to the top of a CCM.



Of course I'm familiar with that, having built one, and I do like the design. But look at the attached picture to see the difference. There is a snag potential in either case.

If these QRS plates are so unsafe we'd better ask Bonehead to stop making their Goldmember. Any SLR mounted on top of many of the current freefly helmet designs (narrow top mounting surface), with a bonehead or schumacher QRS... will have a very similar "snag profile" to what Bowen has with his RRS QRS and 40D.

Again, it's not my choice, but I see nothing ridiculously unsafe about it.
www.WingsuitPhotos.com

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I have no problem with it. Jason Peters, arguably one of the best freefly photogs, has no problem with it........



Or Gregg Gasson, Craig O'Brian, Bryan Buckland, JC, Crazy Larry, etc. etc. etc.;)

Edit: However, these guys use a ftp when shooting outside video/stills. I can see why someone would not want a top mount when freeflying inside a formation, especially with large and or less experienced groups. To each his own, we all have to live with our decisions. I only hope we don't endanger someone else.:)
Bowen, nice setup. Like all other camera flyers you probably will tweak the setup here and there as you fly it to improve/adapt, no worries.:)

Never look down on someone, unless they are going down on you.

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