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velvetjo

Lens for Air to Ground Stills?

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Just wondering if anyone has lens recommendations for air to ground stills? I have a Rebel XTi for jumping, and I'd like to be able to use it eventually for paid shoots of construction sites, real estate, etc. from a C-172 or something similar. I'm looking to get my commercial ticket soon, and this seems like another good way to subsidize my flying habit. I get "buddy" requests for this type of thing all the time anyhow, so why not do it right, eh?

Does image stabilization come into play much for shots like these? I flew with a local aerial photographer a while back who had an egg-shaped grip on the bottom of his digital still, which I'm guessing may have been some type of gyro stabilization. I looked on B&H for something similar, but didn't see anything. Just curious about this due to the combination of engine vibration and distance shots.

I know this is a bit off topic from skydiving, but figured you guys might have some experience to pass along.

Thanks,

Lance

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without a second thought
if it was a NIKON get a VS lens 18-200 vs, 70-300 vs,etc.
Canon also makes lens that help you with vibration,movement but I can't remember what they are called.

.
59 YEARS,OVERWEIGHT,BALDIND,X-GRUNT
LAST MIL. JUMP VIET-NAM(QUAN-TRI)
www.dzmemories.com

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If your going Canon lenses then the IS ones are the Image Stabilized versions. I've used the 70-200 f2.8IS from a SkyFox Gazelle a number of times with no problems shooting ground objects (mainly schools) from between 1000 and 2000 feet. The 35-350 works well, I just up my iso if I can't get a fast enough shutter speed to stop motion blur.

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Talking only about canon, as thats where my experience lies, I'd say you decision will be based on a couple of factors - price being the biggest one.

Canon run a range of IS lenses that will help to reduce shake blur at lower shutter speeds, but these are not always required at higher shutter speeds.

For me, the choice would be something like the 100-400L or the 70-200L with a 1.4 TC optionally. This should give you a fairly nice range. Both have IS (optional on the 70-200). The 2.8 version of the 70-200 will allow you to shoot in slightly lower light without compromising on your shutter speed so much, so that might be an advantage...

Remember however, you're actually not going to need that crazy high a shutter speed at all - 1/400 or 1/800 is plenty. IS isn't going to help much here.

The lens is going to be dependant on the height you'll be shooting from also - here in the UK for example we have a minimum height of 1500ft over built up areas - so to single out a house you'd need a longer lens than if you're shooting a playing field (500ft minumum) from 500ft.

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