ChasingBlueSky 0 #1 January 9, 2005 I am trying to get the essentials for my camera (300D), and can't figure out if it has a built in UV filter. I am still using the kit lens. If it doesnt' which would you go with? From what I have researced and what my brother in law says, I am looking at the Tiffen line. Would a Canon filter be any different? But even with that choice, I'm not sure which of these to choose from. Is there a good source of information so I can understand the difference of filters? UV: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home;jsessionid=Bh9GMMvLk4!2120370478?A=search&Q=&a=27_331&a=39_226&shs=&ci=112&ac=&Submit.x=12&Submit.y=9 As far as other filters, I think I will pick up a Circular Polarizer from Tiffen as well. I know filters are more important with film than DSLR, but would you suggest any others? Also, just for my own knowledge - what filters do you use in freefall?_________________________________________ you can burn the land and boil the sea, but you can't take the sky from me.... I WILL fly again..... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ltdiver 3 #2 January 9, 2005 Why don't you start out with this one. At least protect your lens. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home;jsessionid=Bh9GMMvLk4!2120370478?A=search&Q=&b=8&a=27_331&a=0&Submit.x=9&Submit.y=11&shs=&ci=112&ac= ltdiver Don't tell me the sky's the limit when there are footprints on the moon Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dragon2 0 #3 January 9, 2005 No SLR/DSLR camera I know of has a built-in uv filter, but, personally I use uv filters only for lens-protection so I'd get one anyway. I have one on all my lenses, some nice B+W ones, some cheapo... Tiffen is good, or Hoya (esp the multi-coated ones). B+W is great but $$$$ I've never noticed a diff between clear and UV, but I've used skylight filters that I did notice. With a DSLR you can set your own whitebalance anyway, esp if you're shooting RAW. A circ polarizer is great but only on the ground, or maybe a lucky shot in freefall, since you have to rotate it just right in relation to the sunlight. If you do get it right, well I've seen some beautiful freefall shots somewhere, WOW As for a list of filters, I know Hoya has one, but I can't find it at the moment. Found this for a bit of info: http://www.camerastore.com/cat_003_hoya/003-hoyacats.html Cokin's list of filters may also interest you (don't buy them though, at least not the square ones, for jumping): http://www.geocities.com/cokinfiltersystem/theguide.htm ciel bleu, Saskia Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pope 0 #4 January 9, 2005 Quote A circ polarizer is great but only on the ground, or maybe a lucky shot in freefall, since you have to rotate it just right in relation to the sunlight. If you do get it right, well I've seen some beautiful freefall shots somewhere, WOW I disagree. It's not hard to know the orientation you will be flying in relative to your subject. All it takes is a small piece of gaffer's tape and a quick glance at the position of the sun when you get on the plane. If you're fortunate enough to have a subject that is "sun aware," it makes it even easier. Circ. Polarizers are a good freakin' thing. pope Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dragon2 0 #5 January 9, 2005 LOL guess you're right, guess I'm thinking "BirdMan" and "CRW" too much Although I suppose even then it might work, for a part of the circuit, anyway... Rats, something else on my wanna-have list ciel bleu, Saskia Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WayCool 0 #6 January 10, 2005 I have been doing a little study on the subject of protective filters because I am changing the spec of the protective filters for the Way Cool lens line up. From the information I have obtained it seems that while colour film is somewhat sensitive to the UV part of the spectrum, it seems that CCD image sensors are not. What this means is that you should select your filters for the quality of the optical glass and for the anti reflective quality of the coatings, put simply the multi coated lens filters are the best option. The new glass for he Way Cool protective filters is coated with 3 layers on each side. Stay Cool http://www.waycool.com.au Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pcalandra 0 #7 January 10, 2005 Great advice, I agree with you especially if your doing Tandems, for the most part I would hope they are facing the sun! Oh, and don't buy cheap filters it's a waste f money. Tiffan are a value. You may want to try their Haze-1 or Multi-coated UV Haze. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ChasingBlueSky 0 #8 January 10, 2005 Quote it seems that CCD image sensors are not. I found this today: QuoteUV sensitivity seems to vary from one digital camera to the next, but most digital cameras seem to be substantially less UV-sensitive than film. In fact, few digital cameras are UV-sensitive enough to reap a noticeable optical benefit from UV filtration, even in the most extreme UV conditions—at very high altitude (well over 10,000 feet) or in very long shots over water. A good quality multicoated neutral UV filter is as good a choice as any for a lens protector if you feel compelled to use one, but don't expect to see much of a benefit in your digital images. This was in there as well: QuoteCCD Protection? UV filters might provide a bit of CCD protection, as this March, 2000 e-mail from dpFWIW contributor Jay Scott explains: [E]ach CCD pixel has little color filter on it. These are dye filters, not dichroic, so with exposure to light—especially UV—they will gradually fade or discolor. A UV filter might possibly prolong the life of your CCD. I suspect that fading is not an issue until after the camera is obsolete, though, and it's likely that other components will fail earlier. I have no data supporting such a benefit, but it makes some sense. QuoteTo my knowledge, the only practical optical role for UV filters in digital photography relates not to scatter, but to an artifact known as "purple fringing" (PF). PF is most commonly seen in digital images but also occurs in film images. It typically appears as a multipixel band of bright purple surrounding the peripheral edges of dark objects cast against a bright background. Central edges are spared. Backlit leaves set against a bright sky are a common PF scenario. A widely accepted theory of purple fringing has yet to emerge, but it's most likely a high-order lens aberration akin to but different from run of the mill chromatic aberration, which instead produces soft red and green fringes on opposite sides of affected objects. In certain exceptionally UV-sensitive digital cameras, there may also be a contribution from CCD blooming due to UV contamination of sensels already near saturation. Users of the Canon IS Pro90, the Canon PowerShot G1 and other cameras unusually prone to purple fringing may find some relief with a UV filter. Luckily, my ancient Oly C-2020Z rarely produces PF, but later Oly rangefinders are said to be more PF-prone in varying degrees. http://dpfwiw.com/filters.htm#uv http://dpfwiw.com/filters.htm#uv_sensitivity I also put a call in to someone I know over at Bexel and says all the pros use UV filters on their digitals since they are sensitive to UV._________________________________________ you can burn the land and boil the sea, but you can't take the sky from me.... I WILL fly again..... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bmcd308 0 #9 January 10, 2005 http://www.photo.net/equipment/filters/ ---------------------------------- www.jumpelvis.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
