Side mount riser strikes

[flyingferret 0]

I am posting this in the freefly forum as well as the photography forum. But in general I am asking the freefliers, because we are kinda a little subset of camera fliers. I know the general idea os side vs. top has been discussed here a lot, but I am interested in actual events. I have already have a side mount and want to minimize any problems.
You hear a lot of advice for a top mount camera for safety. However, to my knowledge (it could be incomplete) all the incidents that occured last year where with professionals flying top mounted cameras. So, I am wondering where are all the bad reports from the thousands of freefliers wearing side mount cameras?
I just put together a Batrak with a side mounted PC, and I will be adding still cameras to the top later. So, I wanted to ask: Who has ever had any problems with side mounts? If so, to what degree? Equally important, how did you safeguard your gear from future problems? thanks
Malachi

[rapper4mpi 0]

I jump a side mounted mini-DV and to date (knock-on-wood) have not had a problem. I filled the gap between the mount and the helmet to minimize any risk. I used expanding foam (which proved to be very moldable) then covered it with gaffers tape. I know that this can be a problem, some of the modern rigs fit a little snugger around the shoulders, thus bringing the risers a little closer, so on opening be sure to slightly tilf your head to the side, just a bit.
-Rap

[airdrew20012001 0]

One of the other camera flyers where I work part time had a side mount PC 9. He moved it to top mount but that had nothing to do with riser strikes. He never had any problems and he had a batrack side mount set up like you are talking about.
I personally do the top mount thing because you cannot side mount a trv 17 and I couldn't shell out the money for the pc style. But that's me. I think if you side mount with a d-box you should be in good shape. I had a freeflying friend who also mirrored the comment about tilting your head during the opening sequence. The concern I would have there would be if you had a thwaker opening what sort of extra stress would having your head at an angle put on your neck. Just a thought.
Drewfus McDoofus

[flyingferret 0]

On a related note. I am using a PC-110 D-box for my PC-1, which so far (it has not left the ground yet, due to weather) looks awesome. It gives me access to the back of the camera, and security around my wide angle. However, the baseplate is bitter wider than I need and overlaps the Batrak. So I plan on modifying the d-box plate to fit better. Does anyone have any info on cutting carbon fiber? I am think maybe a Dremel with a cutting wheel?
Malachi

[rapper4mpi 0]

I'm not sure about how to cut it, but be sure to wear eye and mouth protection and even gloves. You don't want to get near the fibers.
-Rap

[Gravitymaster 0]

I was able to cut my Bonehead with a standard masonry drill bit. I would highly recommend using clear nail polish on the holes once they are drilled. I would also suggest you do this away from the camera as carbon fibers can cause damage to the video heads and other inner workings of the camera.
Good luck!
Bob

[airdrew20012001 0]

Quote

I am think maybe a Dremel with a cutting wheel?

I have heard that that would work. I have always used a drill because I am too damn poor to buy a dremmell tool. One thing to watch out for when dealing with the d-bos, the top plate on the bnatrack, or anything else that is carbon fibre: carbon fibre conducts electricity. Whenever you cut it/drill it/whatever make sure that you cover the hole edges with nail polish so the little loose fibres don't end up in your camera shorting things out. I have never met anyone that this has happened too but you don't want to be the first.
Drewfus McDoofus