re-packing tiny rigs

[dkpbxman 0]

I'm sure that this problem has been agonized over as long as the sport's been around.
Any riggers out there with easy (easier) ways to sufficiently fill the ears of those handkerchief sized molar bags when doing a re-pack?

Sorry if this has been asked before, I'm new.

[Hooknswoop 19]

Which reserve into which container?

Hook

[dkpbxman 0]

I recently had to re-pack a PD 113 into a Javelin XRS with a cypres. Gave me fits!

[Hooknswoop 19]

I use a set of straps to hold the "A", "B", "C", and "D" line tight. I place a board over the side of the canopy I am not working on to compress and control it. Then I use packing paddles to make the folds (check the nose) and 6 clamps to hold everything in place. Then I lift the canopy up and use my foot to slide the free-bag under he canopy. I take the clamps off one side and form the ear for that sidew. Place the ear into the free-bag. I use one hand to put the ear in the bag and the other to hold the ear in place as I take my hand out. Then I slide the free-bag onto the canopy a little. Same thing for the other side. Then slide the free-bag onto the rest of the canopy and put the lines into the locking stows. The keys are to control the canopy, have as litle air in it as possible, and distribute the bulk.

Hope this helps, it would be easier to show you.

Hook

[dkpbxman 0]

Thanks-see what you're saying.

[Samurai136 0]

My question is: where do you hide all the PC material on such a tiny container?

Ken

"Buttons aren't toys." - Trillian
Ken

[riggerrob 558]

The key to hiding pilotchute fabric on any PopP-Top (Racer) or semi Pop Top (Javelin) is to pack plenty of bulk beside the loop/pilotchute. This creates a deep crater, with high side walls for the pilothcute spring to sink into.
Leave the top corners soft so they will not push the riser covers open too early.