Steering Line Length

[HookSky 0]

I recently bought a Sabre2 135, and it has been pointed out to me that when I pull on my front risers the toggle is pulling the tail of the canopy down. Is there any easy way to workout the correct length of the steer lines or is it just a case of trial and error plus experience of doing it ?

[garywainwright 0]

Trial and error I would have thought mike, then add a bit to allow for further shrinking

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[HookSky 0]

Hi Gary

I thought it might be ! Last weekend I had an opportunity to look at it - I am tninking of trying 2 inches longer than the factory setting and see were that gets me.

[bobsoutar 0]

Try lengthening them by about 6 inches and open a bit high to test them out.

You should have just a little slack in the brake lines when using front risers. If there is too much slack wrap the lines around one finger each side and try again - then around 2 fingers each side if necessary until you find the spot. Then find the new stall point while you're up there.

Adjust the knot when you get down, jump it again to make sure and then get a loop finger-trapped and stitched.

[PhreeZone 15]

Start small... 1-2 inches makes for a big difference in the flare point. Look up and see how much slack you have in full flight, how much when you reach for a riser and how much you have when you pull on a riser. Make it longer by an inch or so a jump till its right.

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[Hooknswoop 19]

How to Adjust Steering Line Length for Optimal Performance


The length of the steering lines can drastically affect how a canopy flies. High performance canopies are affected much more than lower performance canopies. All canopies should have some slack or a slight bow in the steering lines. If the steering lines are too short and pull down the tail of the canopy during full flight, even slightly, the canopy is flying in brakes. If the canopy is flying in brakes, it will not have as much speed to trade for lift during the landing flare. Over time the steering lines shrink as a result of friction from the slider during opening, as much as 6 inches in extreme cases. New canopies or line sets adjusted to have no slack in the steering lines will begin to fly in brakes as the control lines shrink.

To maximize the performance of your canopy it is necessary to understand the construction of the steering lines. The steering lines on a canopy are made of several parts. The upper control lines, usually four or five lines cascade or split at the top of the central control line and attach to the tail. The central control line attaches the upper control lines to the lower control line. The lower control line attaches from the finger-trapped loop (for setting the brakes) at the bottom of the central control line to the toggle. The lower control line is where your rigger can make adjustments.

If you do not use your front risers, adjusting steering line length is a fairly simple process. To check your control lines, pull one toggle down an inch or two while watching the tail of the canopy in flight. The tail should not move and the canopy should not turn. If it does, your lower steering lines need to be lengthened. Make small adjustments, no more than an inch at a time. This may require several adjustments. It is better to be an inch too long than an inch too short. Once you find the correct length, have your rigger finger-trap and bar-tack the lower steering line to eliminate the knot next to the toggle which can hang up on the guide ring. Periodically check the steering lines to see if they have shrunk and need to be lengthened again. Micro-line can shrink 4 to 6 inches or more over its life span. Vectran tends not to shrink with wear but is not as durable as Micro-line.

If you use your front risers, adjusting steering line length is more complicated. Having enough slack in the lower steering lines on a high performance canopy is more critical to how the canopy will fly. In a front riser turn you are pulling the toggle down a little with the riser and there has to be some slack to prevent pulling down the tail. If the tail of a high performance canopy is pulled down even a little when front risering, the riser pressure will be much higher and the recovery arc (the amount of altitude required to get back under the canopy) will be shortened. To check if the steering line is long enough, clear your airspace, do a full 360 degree front riser turn (keeping the toggles in your hands), and watch the tail of the canopy. As the speed increases, the drag on the control line increases and if there isn’t enough slack, the tail will be pulled down. You need enough slack so that the tail won’t be pulled down while pulling the toggle and the riser down at the maximum speed of the canopy. Again, make small adjustments no more than an inch at a time and have your rigger finger-trap and bar-tack the lower control line once you have them adjusted correctly.

With the steering lines correctly set, your canopy will dive longer and faster and you can get the most out of your canopy.

Hook

[HookSky 0]

Thanks all for the input, I didn't think it would be a quick and easy process and small increments makes alot sense.

Once I 've got the Sabre2 sorted I may as well check the old Stiletto too !

[mouth 0]

Ok, I have been told to lengthen my lines because my canopy doesn't fly in full flight with my fingers in the toggles. This has changed my flare to where it is below my waist which is often low so I don't always finish my flare. Any suggestions?? I'm not sure I follow your verbal description to check the length (I am a visual learner )

--
Hot Mama
At least you know where you stand even if it is in a pile of shit.

[HookSky 0]

When I first had my Stiletto 135 the steering lines were doing just that. Your best better is to get the correct line lengths from the manufacturer and measure them, if they are 5-6 inches shorter (normally the A and steering lines are the worst) I would get a new set of lines.

However, if you speak to a rigger he should be able to lengthen the toggles as temporary measure.

Mike.

[bobsoutar 0]

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This has changed my flare to where it is below my waist which is often low so I don't always finish my flare. Any suggestions??

Use longer risers! Also flare down and outwards so that the lines are kinked at the rings.

[HookSky 0]

Thanks again for the input !

Last week I increased the length of my toggles by 2 inches. This has made the flare and riser control much smoother, the riser pressure was a little less and it did dive for a bit longer. But I have only done a couple of jumps with it since the change.

I am thinking of increasing them one more inch, as the lines are going to shrink, and I still have plenty available when I am in the full flare.

Cheers,

Mike.

[skydivegirl 0]

Ok, I have watched my canopy when using front risers & the steering lines definitely pull on the tail. However, as they are, when finishing up my flare I pretty much have my arms fully extend. I'm thinking that after I lengthen my lines... they'll be too long for me to finish up my flare. Has anyone else had this problem?

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***This has changed my flare to where it is below my waist which is often low so I don't always finish my flare. Any suggestions??

Use longer risers! Also flare down and outwards so that the lines are kinked at the rings.

I have used longer risers before and I couldn't reach the slider to collapse it.

Any other suggestions other than getting my arms lengthened?

Pink Mafia Sis #26

[Hooknswoop 19]

You're in a bind then. Either live with it, or get longer risers and pull down on a rear riser to reach the slider.

Hook

[skydivegirl 0]

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You're in a bind then. Either live with it, or get longer risers and pull down on a rear riser to reach the slider.

That's actually how I got to it before. It was annoying but do-able.

Pink Mafia Sis #26

[Cajun 0]

1 thing that helped me, I went to longer risers, but I ditched the rapid-links and used slinks instead.

This gave me the benefit of longer risers and the slider comes down a little further so it's easier to reach. But I also put the slider behind my head after I collapse it anyway so I don't care if it slides down the risers a little.

[markbaur 0]

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All canopies should have some slack or a slight bow in the steering lines.

An easy way to check is to lay the canopy on its side, as though you were going to flat pack. If this is true, you should be able to make a triangle from the link up the A-line to the bottom of the canopy, then along the bottom of the rib, then back down the brake line to the link.
Does this work with the factory-recommended setting on a Sabre? How about a PDR113 or Tempo 150?
Mark

[mq105 0]

Definitely make small adjustments; 1-2 inches at a time. Another factor is where you hold your front riser. The lower you hold it the more you pull the steering line. Grab as high on the riser as you can. If you use dive loops, have a rigger move them as high as possible.

Be safe