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henrik.anderson

Javelin hardhousing mod.

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This info is not in the owner's manual, but is in the retro-fit hard-housing installation instructions.

The left-side cable housing should be routed over the reserve ripcord housing where they cross in the yoke.

The housing should exit the ring cover on the outboard side if the bartacking permits (can be a very tight fit), then should be routed under the main left web to the inboard side, then back up to the riser.
riser.

Mark

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Did anyone notice, by the packing instruction pull-out the figures doesn't match the description?

The text says left-right flap closing sequence, the picture says right left.

Although it leaves the change open for a routing mistake, I personally prefer the left-right sequence, it gives lighter pulls.
The trouble with skydiving; If you stink at it and continue to jump, you'll die. If you're good at it and continue to jump, you'll see a lot of friends die...

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I am also modding a Javelin to hardhousing. One problem I have noticed is the "opening" in the chest strap (where the strap is attached to the cheast-ring, there is an "opening" where the housing should go thru). The problem is that the gap of cheaststrap is to small! There is no room routing the hardhousing thru this space... I am thinking of mounting the housing on top of the cheaststrap (instead of thru it), just making a "pocket for it to run thru. My next problem is that I do not have the muscle to sew thru the ceaststrap were it´s doublestiched... Any ideas, or havent you understood anything in this post? :$
d.d.s.

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There's less of a snag issue if the cables run behind the chest strap.

To get a needle through heavy webbing, you can use pliers to first push, then pull the needle. Do a little bit at a time, and be sure the push or pull is straight, or you'll break the needle.

Para-Gear sells a sewing palm (sailmaker's palm), catalog item S7190, which can help with heavy hand sewing.

Mark

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I personally prefer the left-right sequence, it gives lighter pulls.



A caution to anyone using a pull-out system: the L-R sequence can lead to a hard pull/total malfunction. Older Sunpath manuals specified L-R sequence for both throw-out and pull-out. Newer manuals were changed to show R-L (correct) closing sequence for pull-outs only.

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The L-R sequence can only lead to hard pull/total when the bridle is misrouted. The only thing R-L sequence does it make it harder to misroute the bridle. The consequence is harder pulls though. When you use pull-out in whatever rig, using whatever closing sequence, you have to be very carefull packing and checking. If you don't don't jump pull-out, use the general beter system throw-away.
The trouble with skydiving; If you stink at it and continue to jump, you'll die. If you're good at it and continue to jump, you'll see a lot of friends die...

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When you use pull-out in whatever rig, using whatever closing sequence, you have to be very carefull packing and checking.



I think that's a good idea with any system.

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If you don't don't jump pull-out, use the general beter system throw-away.



I do jump a pull-out and have packed it R-L even before the manufacturer finally recommended this. In over 1400 jumps with this system, I've never had a hard pull, nor have I yet had a malfunction on any system. I've trained some rather small people to transition to this type of deployment and none of them have ever complained about a hard pull. If you realized how easy it is to pull a pud, maybe you'd have more confidence and wouldn't feel the need to let your PC to do it for you.

Would you please explain why the L-R flap-closing sequence will give me an easier pull?

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My theory is that the pin has a "smoother" ride. But it mainly comes from my personal experience. Tried both ways, now have about 500ish pull out jumps (800 total). Maybe it's a Jav odd. thing?
The trouble with skydiving; If you stink at it and continue to jump, you'll die. If you're good at it and continue to jump, you'll see a lot of friends die...

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I do jump a pull-out and have packed it R-L even before the manufacturer finally recommended this. In over 1400 jumps with this system, I've never had a hard pull, nor have I yet had a malfunction on any system.



This is never a good reason to do anything. You can go 2000 jumps and not have a problem, and jump 2001 can kill you. When changing anything ask "will it improve function or safety?" If so how?
Sparky
My idea of a fair fight is clubbing baby seals

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This is never a good reason to do anything.



Of course it's not. But how about "the manufacturer recommends it?" Do you disagree with that reason also? The point of my experience is that it has convinced me that the latest mfr recommendation is correct.

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When changing anything ask "will it improve function or safety?" If so how?



The (lengthy) answer to that question caused me to pack pull-outs R-L even before Sunpath recommended it. That method is now officially approved. Who has been validated here?

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There's less of a snag issue if the cables run behind the chest strap.

To get a needle through heavy webbing, you can use pliers to first push, then pull the needle. Do a little bit at a time, and be sure the push or pull is straight, or you'll break the needle.

Para-Gear sells a sewing palm (sailmaker's palm), catalog item S7190, which can help with heavy hand sewing.

Mark



>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Your problem is that you are still using sissy needles intended for little girls.
Once you get some manly NINE INCH LONG UPHOLSTERY NEEDLES, you can discard your pliers, sailmakers palms and all those other sissy assist devices.
Manly needles are also available from aircraft supply houses (Aircraft Spruce & Specialty or Wag-Aero) that sell fabric to cover homebuilt and antique airplanes. They list these manly tools as RIB-STITCHING NEEDLES.

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When I was working on my rigger certificate, I noticed a similar situation with the (reserve) instructions for the Talon, in regard to compressing the pilot-chute. The picture showed placing all the pilot-chute material outside the compressed pilot-chute (like with the Vector). The printed words stated the pilot-chute material should be placed between the coils upon compression of the spring. My instructor told me to 'go by the printed word'. Which is what I do, unless, I have a 'big' question about a situation. I then call the manufacturer for 'clarification'.

Chuck

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The (lengthy) answer to that question caused me to pack pull-outs R-L even before Sunpath recommended it. That method is now officially approved. Who has been validated here?



Jump Shack, Racer, has had Pull Outs since before there was a RI or SunPath and they always recommended R-L. To do other wise is asking for a total.


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Of course it's not. But how about "the manufacturer recommends it?" Do you disagree with that reason also?



No I don't but you say you do. "caused me to pack pull-outs R-L even before Sunpath recommended it."

Like I said before, ask yourself will it improve function or safety. When you asked those 2 questions you decided to close the flaps R-L.

Sparky
My idea of a fair fight is clubbing baby seals

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To do other wise is asking for a total.

Tell me why? I so totally prefer L-R
The trouble with skydiving; If you stink at it and continue to jump, you'll die. If you're good at it and continue to jump, you'll see a lot of friends die...

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Jump Shack, Racer, has had Pull Outs since before there was a RI or SunPath and they always recommended R-L. To do other wise is asking for a total.
Quote



Irrelevant when applied to an older racer as the top flap was last. Might be applicable to the new racer.

Tim T.

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