kurtvert

Here are a couple better pictures of my goggles. As far as helmet and goggle movement. Set up both so that they do not move, as much as possible. That's a given. Beyond that, any slight movement is going to be completely negligible if you're using any kind of wide angle lens. A side benefit of this method is that it also will identify if you've got your camera mounted correctly on your helmet. If the the frame on your goggles is askew after you set it up, you'll know your set up is wonky. You're frame should be centered nicely on your goggles. If not, change your mount. If you always have to tilt your head crooked to shoot straight, framing will always be a struggle.

Maybe you're talking about a GoPro, in which case you're probably not a Camera-Flyer. You're a skydiver with a camera on your head. Big difference!

I've been a camera-flyer for 20 years. I've shot around 5000 tandem videos and was the camera-flyer for a skydiving nationals medal winning, open-class, artistic freefly team. I've been using this system for camera sighting since 1995 and highly recommend it. It gets me a lot of compliments on my framing. Check it out! Ring-Sight vs Frame-Sight A Frame-Sight is safer. It has no snag-points for a line to catch on, and will not put your eye out if you crash. A Frame-Sight gives you more information. Not just where to point your camera, but also how close to fly: It shows you not just where the center of your frame is, but also shows you the edges of your frame. Simply put your subject in the center of the frame and fly closer until they fill the frame. What You See Is What You Get -WYSIWYG. A Frame-Sight is free. All you need is some electrical tape (because it's black on the back) A Frame-Sight cannot be bumped out of adjustment. You're set until your goggles get scratched and need replacement. A Frame-Sight makes you look less like a Borg and more like a Cylon. How To Make A Frame Sight You'll need: Your helmet with the camera installed, goggles (I've found that Sorz work very well for this, but use whatever goggles are comfortable for you and stay in the same place on your face well), electrical tape, a straight-edge, a sharp knife, scissors, a helper. Cut a 6 or 7 inch piece of electrical tape and stick it down straight on a safe cutting surface. Use a straight-edge and sharp knife to cut the tape into thirds length-wise to make three narrow strips of tape, then cut one of the strips in half width-wise to use as the shorter sides of the frame. Stand 10 ft or so from a frame to use as a reference. (a window or white-board work well but any well defined vertical and horizontal lines on the wall can be used) Put on your goggles and helmet. Power up your video camera and flip out your view screen. Have your helper aim your camera so that the top of the video frame is resting on the top of your reference frame on the wall, and hold it there. (having their forearms braced against your shoulders can help keep everything steady) Hold the ends of one of the longer strips of tape. Stick the tape down, in the middle and then towards the ends, so that visually, with both eyes open, the tape rests in a straight line on the top of your reference frame. Have your helper let go of your helmet. Move your camera and then visually put your frame line on the reference frame line and have your helper check it to confirm that you've got it in the right place. If not pull your tape up and try again. (it can be a little tricky at first, it will help to do it in a well-lit room so you can see your tape-lines well) After you've got your top line set, repeat the process with the bottom and both sides. Don't worry if the tape is going across your nose. All that's left to do is use some scissors to cut of the excess tape so that you just have a rectangular box, with a notch for your nose. The sides of the frame will look curved from the outside but straight from inside the goggles. If you've got any weird wiggles in your lines just pull your tape up in that spot and put it back down in a smoother curve. The attached jpg is what my goggles look like with the Frame-Sight. I shoot a CX-100 with a .55 wide.

I did two tandem photo jumps today with my new NEX-3. My neck and I love it. The pictures are better looking than my Rebel, I used all manual settings, it shoots plenty fast, and several times I picked up my helmet and thought for a second that I had forgotten something because of the noticeably reduced weight. Caution: You will have to have a switch port "hacked" for this camera. Harbortronics can do it.

Raynox HD5000PRO

2K helmet originally built for PC-1000 modified to fit CX-100.

And, it's solid state!! Check it! http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/597337-REG/Sony_HDR_CX100_HDR_CX100_Flash_Memory_Handycam.html

Look at the Sony HDR-CX100. It's less that 2.5" wide and only $600! It JUST became available.

Nah! He's a damn foreigner! We woulda had a silver medal in intermediate our first year if it wasn't for the damn foreigner we had on our team then! Could you arrange a green card marriage for him?

We'd love fly with you. We train on Saturdays. If you'd like to call to confirm we'll be there you can call my cell 415.747.2438. Welcome to the bay area!

The members of Groovalicious FlyTeam: Ryan "Smiley" Arnold and Kurt "Vert" Issel, in their 3rd year as a team have begun their season of training at Skydance in Davis, CA. They will be competing at Nationals in Chicago this year in Freefly in the Open category. We will, of course, be needing a Camera Flyer! If you are interested in joining our team please contact Kurt at: [email protected]

Let's say i'm landing at Lost Prairie (3500ft MSL) downwind and don't want to break my leg (again) in a gopher hole. Does anyone have any tips on slowing down a swoop machine before i have to put my feet down on un-even ground?