gowlerk

So no excuse for not standing up that tandem...

Ha!
As you know tandems don't fall down. They just sometimes choose to be tail draggers!

Thank you very much. I searched and could not find that page for some reason.

Ken

I can tell you that 241 class machines are high speed machines designed for manufacturing of clothing, especially shirts ect. They are fine machines, but not well suited to heavy materials used in rigging.
111 class machines are compound feed and are better for heavy work. Many of them are walking foot machines, but not the sub class w100. It is a combination of needle feed and drop feed. This means it advances the material on the bottom by feed dog like your 20u, and from the top by having the needle move back and forth while entering and exiting the work. This helps to sew more layers without them slipping.
It would be a good complement to your 20u, but it does not have reverse. You may consider looking for a walking foot (alternating presser foot) machine as it would feed material even better, but they are in higher demand and usually sell for higher prices.
Here is a link to a manual for a 111w100:
http://parts.singerco.com/IPinstManuals/111W100.pdf

I hope this helps
Ken

I'm looking for one. I'm not looking to pay $25 for a .pdf file. Can anyone help?

Thanks
Ken

Neatness is often overrated

I largely agree with that. As long as the lines are straight and stowed properly the main reason for neatness is to control the volume in that tiny bag!

gowlerk

I have a cheap solution. Go to Walmart, buy some hollow knitting needles in various sizes. Cut them, smooth the open end, and use them. If walmart no longer carries good quality aluminum knitting needles,just plastic ones, you may need to go to a craft store. Or use heat to melt a hole in the plastic, or drill a hole.
This should be a small fraction of the para-gear price, but won't be curved, or nice stainless.

Ken

Old Singer 31-15 were not actually "painted" in the sense we think of it now. They were "Japanned." A process involving dipping into a liquid mixture of oil based products and then baked for several hours. This is roughly the same process Henry Ford used on Model Ts. Which is why they were available in any colour you wanted, as long as it was black.
These oscillating shuttle machines are indeed almost indestructible. Soaking them in kerosene is the recommended cure for any build up of old gummy oil that may be causing binding. After drying it off, just oil it with good quality sewing machine oil and off you go for the next several decades.
You will love the servo motor when you install it. No more grabby clutch, and you can slow it down as much as you want. You don't need it running at 1700 SPM unless you are running a sweat shop.
After you learn more about sewing you will find yourself wanting two things. Reverse, and some form of compound feed. But in the meantime you will enjoy your new Singer
The Kenmore for $75 dollars is actually worth maybe ten. You can find cheap zigzag machines like that all day long at thrift shops for almost nothing. If you would like to spend 75-100 look for a Singer 401 as someone has already mentioned. Or a Pfaff 130, 230 0r 360. These are all domestic machines that will do a nice zigzag and are reliable, but not heavy duty. If anyone tries to sell you a machine described as "Industrial strength", just walk away.
No machine that does not have a large motor hanging down under it's table is even remotely industrial. I refurbish domestic machines and sell them on ebay. I don't hype them, and I only sell stuff made before about 1960. If you want advice on domestic type machines I can help. I also own 3 industrials , but I don't know enough about them to give you as good advice as some others here can.

Ken

Yes, lead shot is expensive, nearly $2 a pound. If you live in the USA you can order it here:

http://www.rotometals.com/Lead-Shot-s/64.htm

I just can't seem to make it "clicky"

Ken Gowler

Getting back to your original problem. I have a 20u73 and will say two things about ZZ sewing versus SS sewing. First, get the bottom tension correct first. By correct I mean the least you can get away with. Also, does your bobbin case have a pig tail to guide the thread through? If not get one, this will help a lot with ZZ. Generally you will need to use a little less top tension with ZZ, but that has to do with how the stitch sets, and is probably not causing the shredding. The most likely way to correct your problem is simply to use a larger needle. This may be a problem because 20us are only designed to use up to a size 18. My machine has a needle clamp that will accept a size 20 or even a 22, but I needed to adjust the needle to hook relationship to make the machine sew properly. Once you do this the machine will probably not work correctly with smaller (12-14) size needles, but should be good for 16 and larger. Since E thread is the smallest you will use, this should be ok. Size 18 needles are to small for any rigging work other than sewing canopy material, so you need to get the machine set up for larger needles. If you need any help with this PM me and I will try to help.

Ken

Those usually sell on Ebay for about 150 to 200. Head only. I've never seen a treadled one before. You can get a new motor and controller for about 50. Or just take a used one from an old sewing machine. Pfaff 130s are generally considered desirable and reliable and are in demand by boat owners for sail repair. They often will mount a hand crank to them and not use a motor.

Ken

Go to the UPT website. Download and check out the parts catalog. Have a good look through it and learn what you can. You will find about 10 choices or ripcords for V3s. 5 each of RSL and non RSL types. After you become thoroughly confused phone them up. They will ask you a couple of questions, and then tell you what you need and how to get it.
They have absolutely fabulous customer service, and I guarantee no question is too stupid to ask.

Ken

Thank you all for your answers. I think I've got the idea now. What I'm taking away from this is that if the right machine at the right price comes along, needle feed should be adequate for the amount I would use it. But a walking foot machine is preferable if it is available.

Thanks
Ken

Simple Jerry, needle feed means the needle moves back and forth to help feed, drop feed is less intuitive, but just means feed dogs. And you have answered my question just fine thank you.

Ken

I jumped one of those once. It belonged to a guy I know who weighed about 260 lbs. We used it to do Mr. Bill jumps, one with me hanging on (about 180 lbs.) and then one with him hanging on to me.
The uppers were howling and I ended up landing 2 miles away going backwards trying to hold the whole time. It truly is a goliath canopy.
Back to your question. I see that ad on ebay as well. And I do tandems as well. I would just say that I would consider it wrong to use a canopy that was not specifically designed for tandems with paying customers that don't know any better. However, I would be willing to use it to take you for a ride if you bring it around to my home DZ in Canada!

I'm implying that very rarely have I ever seen you pass up an opportunity to share all of your vast knowledge! Nothing wrong with getting a great deal. I would pay the man and be on my way in a heart beat.

Ken

***I don't think the guy realized the value of the machine.

And some how or other you managed to resist the urge to explain it to him? Hard to believe.
But seriously I'm thinking if I am patient a good machine will come to me cheaply as well. At least I hope so.

Ken

Jerry,
That looks like a nice setup. The Consew 339 is definatly on my watch list. But I am wondering about the 212 you had. They come in different versions, some with and some without walking foot. Which was yours?

Ken

Hi Rob,
Yea, that's about what I thought the answer would be. It all depends. I'm guessing if you only had room for one machine you would likely opt for walking foot then.

Ken

Me again,
Just to be clear, I fully understand the difference between the different feed types. I'm only wondering about whether or not people find needle feed to be adequate, or if walking feet are much better and worth the extra money in a two needle machine.

Ken

In researching what kind of machine to look for I've managed to come up with several models of Brother, Juki, Consew, and Singers to consider. They all seem to be based on the Singer 212 model. Except the Pfaffs, but I'm not going there.
What I am wondering about is compound feed, (drop and needle feed) versus triple feed, (with the addition of walking foot).
What do most riggers use, and is there a lot of need to go with triple feed?

Thanks
Ken

I bought both grommets and tools from CS Osbourne last year. I'm very happy with both the price and the quality. Phone them up, they will ship you what you need, but I believe one gross is the minimum quantity if you want grommets. Much cheaper than Paragear.

Ken

First of all, I love my 5 cell Swift. I've landed it 4 times over the years, and only once did I break a bone. (heel) and even then that was only because 300 ft was not enough time to get out of about 8 line twists before landing on the tarmac with no flare. So I can tell you all for sure that as poorly as they flare, they land much better flared than with the brakes still stowed!

Secondly I will mention that when riggerrob taught me the rigger A course last year, and I brought it along with me, he made it pretty clear that this was the oldest ram air canopy that he would even consider teaching me to pack.

I also still use mine in a second rig, and would not hesitate to use it. However a new and very low budget jumper would like to buy a cheap rig from me, and I'm not sure if I should sell him
the reserve to save him some money. He is only about 140 lbs, so loading is not an issue, and I'm being right up front to him that the most it's worth is $50, but I'm still a little uneasy about it.

Ken Gowler

If you only need a small piece, ask your friendly neighborhood rigger. Or anyone who makes jumpsuits.

Ken

I went to see it, not a servo motor, some kind of automatic controller that I don't understand. Thread trimmer that I don't need and too much money. Now I'm looking at an old Singer 96K-40 for $75.

Ken

Rigging Innovations sizing chart is here:

http://www.rigginginnovations.com/forms-docs/documents/RI%20Volume%20Chart%202008.pdf[/url]


It may help you decide.

Ken