wildernessmedic

Thanks for the reply. I enjoy canopy flight and the only real reason I have to downsize is so I can buy "the one" set up I will be keeping for years. I probably could downsize, stood up 100 landings in all conditions, but see no reason to unless maybe I could get a 170 that someday I could go a 150 into. Is that possible? I'm pretty comfortable in a sit and on my back, there's always just that constant worry my un free fly friendly rig is going to pop open.

Wel, that answered my question. Everything is the problem haha. So even though i'm completely on heading throughout the deployment slight shoulder movement may cause it. Or because I don't have dynamic corners and the bag is spinning out. Or because i've been making my line bights longer lately. I haven't done a tracking jump with anyone so it's hard to tell if i'm still moving forward at all. I do belly out and try to stop all forward movement. Is there any downside to dynamic corners on a skydiving container? My base rig has them, and just takes a little bit extra to close. If there's not maybe i'll unstitch it.

Not sure about "recovering." I have herniated/bulging disks in that area at 26, along with scoliosis. Probably shouldn't be skydiving and BASE jumping but you know, it's fun. It just hurts. A lot. Always.

Reading around it seems like it's a bit dangerous to be freefkying in my older than me Velcro container with a loose bridle. I'd like to get a new one but I know I won't be flying a 190 forever. If I got one that barely fit a 190 what would be the lower end limit for canopy size? Should I just wait till I downsize 10-20' before buying one?

I did 5 tracking suit jumps and had line twists with all of them. If it was just one or two I'd figure pack job. When I pitch I'm stable and remain on heading throughout the deployment, until it's time to kick out of them. Can body position still cause your bag/unopened canopy to twist even if you remain on heading? Once in a while I get line twists without a tracking suit but never really that many in a row. Bad luck, pack, or body position?

Well I'll be using a specter 190 with whatever suit I do it with.

Oh hi Jarno. You're the one I talked to. This post became kind of obsolete after all your help. Thanks !

K I'll do as many as I can with the FFC wingsuit. I spoke to Phoenix fly. Recommend 100 not 200. No jump number isn't correct.

Sounds like there's no way I can use my Vampire 3 for FFC. After I do it what's the soonest I'm looking at being able to use it?

Seriously?? Stupid bay of the islands doesn't even offer fun jumps.

N/A

Thanks. Waiting for a reply back from bay of the islands. But not sure about their ratings and such there? How different from uspa? Would you bring yours along or try to rent there?

Going to NZ in March for a spearfishing trip. Trying to figure out if it's worth dragging my skydive/BASE rig over(already have a bunch of dive gear). We're going to Paihai. Anyone jumped around there before? Is it fun jumper friendly? I'll basically have one day to go and try to get one or two unless it will take all day waiting for one load. Think is better to leave the skydive rig at home and rent there? Is it possible? Anyone who's been there and has experience is appreciate some info.

No "rules" unless the DZO has some, but you will want to consult with someone experienced in jumping the kind of flag you have. It will take some equipment preparation too, so this might mean you will need to have some "rigging" facilities at the DZ too. You should not wait until Monday to start asking questions. Thanks. Buddy is experienced and has a flag he just used for a ceremony he said he'd let me use but that I needed to double check I was allowed to first. I won't be going at it blind or alone.

Couldn't find it in my SIM. Are there requirements to jump with a flag? I was wanting to fly one to honor some of my KIA buddies on Memorial Day. Thanks.

It may be the lines aren't out of trim just too short for pulling fronts. The slight bow described would not be enough to allow the fronts to be pulled to your chest without significant application of the brake, and both at once can make the canopy quite unstable and unpredictable so I wouldn't do that. Lengthening the lines between the toggle and the loop (if the lines are in trim) is easy and quick to do but this will change your flare and stall points and so you will need to relearn these. I found that I needed to adjust the lengths over period of 20 jumps or so to get the best compromise of fronts vs flare. To do this my rigger fitted much longer lines after the loop and S fed them into the toggles several times (6 S's giving 6 lines jamming through the toggle grommet) with a figure 8 knot on the end of the line to secure it, which allowed me to adjust the lengths in the field while packing. Once I was happy he changed it to a loop and tacked them. After changing the brake line lengths all the jumps following should be high hop and pops, finding at a safe altitude where the new flare and stall points are until you have built up the muscle memory. And only conservative straight in landings until you have the muscle memory. If you treat it with the respect it deserves it's good fun :) Hahahaha. Basically redo everything I JUST did in the canopy control course. I'm ok with that. Every bit they lengthen is flare that I lose right? So only lengthen them just enough to pull the fronts. Guess I'll need someone to film a landing. I didn't even know this was happening and causing erratic behavior until they showed me the video.

I could swear the trim was perfect when I got it a few months ago. Now it's definitely too right. 0 slack at full flight.

Ok I'll hold off doing anything with them if it's just making it preform off from how it should. Thanks guys, I'll look at them next time I jump. Hope it's an easy cheap fix to just add a bit.

Did a canopy control course and discovered I have 0 slack in my brake lines. Video showed me doin some front riser dives and the canopy shaking from the brakes being pulled at the same time because of the lack of slack. Does this mean I shouldn't use the fronts until I get slack in my lines? Instructor said it was counterproductive to do since the brakes get pulled when I pull my front risers. How hard is it to put slack in them? Entire new line sets?

You were correct, thanks. Jumped it a few times today with no problems.

Finally freed up the kill line and practiced packing a couple times. The new Velcro riser covers seem strong. I know I'm used to old worn out ones but do I need to worry about them not opening? I pulled the d bag out and yanked it hard from the lines and couldn't get the risers to pop out. Just dragged the container with the heavy weight first Also put a long piece of Velcro on my bridle where it routes under the flap to the BOC which seems to require a lot of force to pull off. Any chance of a pilot chute in tow from strong enough Velcro there?

Thanks for all the links. I only see it recommended for the vector 3, is it recommended for the 2 as well?

I'm aware of that, but the picture of the velcro is much longer than the normal square. I am trying to figure out why it looks to be about 2-3x longer than it needs to be to hold the bridle on the top flap. Uh you and me both. As soon as I saw it I was confused. Isn't a tiny pea sized piece all that's needed to to lightly hold it in place? Not a long strip.Thing is, you don't need any Velcro on your bridle anymore. UPT now recommends routing it from below and back down. This eliminates the potential for the pin to puncture the bridle and cause a PCT mal. Check out UPT's website. Have a link? Can't find it on their site. Trying to picture what you mean by below. If the line stows are at the bottom, the bridle is at the top, so now they say put the bridle down and right, close flaps, then put the pin in from bottom right and back down to your PC pouch?

I'm aware of that, but the picture of the velcro is much longer than the normal square. I am trying to figure out why it looks to be about 2-3x longer than it needs to be to hold the bridle on the top flap. Uh you and me both. As soon as I saw it I was confused. Isn't a tiny pea sized piece all that's needed to to lightly hold it in place? Not a long strip.

It is very slight. He didn't sew horizontally across it or anything. Just a few stitches in the kill line itself from going off at an angle from it. If it was centered the stitches look like they wouldn't have caught at all.