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rehmwa

Canon G10/-11/12

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Our DZ seems to prefer the G10's.

I'm setting up my rig right now with the help of a friend and the last bit is the still camera (tongue switch, and etcs for the still).

G10's are getting a bit harder to find at a decent price -
I'm wondering about the G12 - newer version of the G10/11 - like the 11, it has to fold out screen to deal with.

any experience out there? Is it all around comparable except as a newer version?

I'm brand new to camera (or old time, last vids I did were with VHS on the rack SEVERAL years ago) - don't plan to attach the still until I get quite a few jumps with the camcorder (CX100) - but I'm shopping now anyway.

thanks

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Driving is a one dimensional activity - a monkey can do it - being proud of your driving abilities is like being proud of being able to put on pants

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I use a G10 with a blow-switch for in air still pictures while paragliding. I get nice pictures, and while the Canon choice of a simple 2.5mm plug is a godsend, and it is pretty compact (I use a home-made front of helmet mount, with cutaway) the camera has a number of other shortcomings for which I wouldn't recommend it for skydiving:

1. Shutter lag. even on manual focus, too slow.
2. shot-to-shot time. Too slow. Skydiving packs a lot of action in a short time. At full res the G10 struggles to get 1 fps.
3. The lens. Picture quality is ok, but it is a retracting lens, and just too fragile for the (hopefully minor) bumps that are going to happen either in the plane or in air. I guess one could put a lens barrel and filter over it, but by then it must be getting very close to the size and weight of a DSLR.

What positives do you see in using a G10?

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Bill, I love my G10. I know you're probably using it for tandems just as I.

I gave all my settings to Buscko and he reeally liked them.

I get 20-23 free fall shots from 9,000 feet. And 30-35 from 13,000.

The key is to learn to look for the best shots. You can't spray and pray the way you can with a DSLR.

But very quickly you will be getting more than enough money shots.
Be the canopy pilot you want that other guy to be.

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Thanks, Sandy - you know I consider your advice extra valuable. It's all here now. Just need to put it all together on helmet now.

talk to you soon

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Driving is a one dimensional activity - a monkey can do it - being proud of your driving abilities is like being proud of being able to put on pants

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>What positives do you see in using a G10?

Personally:

1) Because I have one
2) Because it's small and light (but not _much_ lighter than a DSLR with kit lens)

It's a great camera for POV shots. It's a decent camera for a video person starting out doing tandems and the like.

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>It's a decent camera for a video person starting out doing tandems and the like.



that's me, then

THANKS

what settings do you use?
(I'll be taking lessons on what all this stuff means I think "ISO" "aperture" speed etc)

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Driving is a one dimensional activity - a monkey can do it - being proud of your driving abilities is like being proud of being able to put on pants

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Hi Bil,

So are you using the G10 just for stills or for video also?

I agree, it is good quality for the weight.

One extra point to watch out for are the two tiny screws either side of the screw mounting point on the camera base. On mine, one of the screws fell out and the other got loose (I was lucky to notice it before it fell out. I don't know if the screws were loose from manufacturing problem, or perhaps the vibration/torque of having it on my helmet worked them loose. In any case, make sure they stay tight, and if they are, it might be worth taking them out and putting a little dab of locktite (thread lock glue) on them when reinstalling. Even with one screw missing my G10's mounting socket still seems to be secure.

One other thing worth keeping in mind is that it's not possible to remove the lens to clean the ccd. Normally for compact cameras this is not a problem. I did previously use a Ricoh R5 which I wired up for external triggering on a similar mount to that which I use for my G10. It was lighter and much less lag time than the G10, and had some nice intervalometer settings, but the image quality was not as good - pretty much run of the mill compact camera, perhaps even suffering a bit from noise and never really sharp focus. In short, a waste of helmet space! But I did learn a bit about using a camera, and about dust.

I used it for some skydives, and it seems that the high speed airflow was able to blast a bit of dust deep into the camera and it landed dead center on the CCD. If it was a DSLR, I could have removed the lens and cleaned the CCD. As it was, I was sick of the substandard quality of the R5 and relegated it to the shelf.

So if you use a G10 for skydiving, I'd recommend using one of the attachable lens barrels with a filter on it, as that will give protection to the retractable lens mechanism, the front element, and the possibility of dust ingress.

I keep using my G10 for paragliding in-air use, but if I was making skydive photos (especially for money) there is no way I would use it as a primary camera.




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>What positives do you see in using a G10?

Personally:

1) Because I have one
2) Because it's small and light (but not _much_ lighter than a DSLR with kit lens)

It's a great camera for POV shots. It's a decent camera for a video person starting out doing tandems and the like.

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Hi Bil,

So are you using the G10 just for stills or for video also?



G12 for stills, CX100 for vid -

thanks for the advice - I'll make sure to review the config for potential airflow issues (pathways internal, the flip screen, etc) and external screws to consider locktite on

...
Driving is a one dimensional activity - a monkey can do it - being proud of your driving abilities is like being proud of being able to put on pants

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>what settings do you use?


For most freefall - Tv 500, ISO 200

For landings - Tv 500 or sports setting, ISO 200

For in the plane - Program setting, ISO 200-800 depending on the available light (i.e. if it's the Skyvan near sunset, ISO 800, if it's an Otter on a sunny day, 200)

The exposure compensation dial is a really nice feature for dark aircraft. Crank it up if you're shooting against bright windows to wash out the windows and get a decent exposure on the student.

(BTW overall one of the nicest thing about the G10 is that you can do all of this just by turning knobs; no menus or touchscreens involved.)

Image stabilizer set to shoot-only (doesn't matter that much at 1/500)

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Used A G10 for several Hundred Tandem Videos works great. Just upgraded to the G12, Works even better. Twice as many photos and 10.1 Mega pixels are all you need. A g12 with cx 100 or anyone newer is really a light weight system. I also have both top mounted on a Optik Illusion.
Blue Skies
Joe
"Knowledge is the antidote to fear."
--- Ralph Waldo Emerson

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>what settings do you use?


For most freefall - Tv 500, ISO 200

For landings - Tv 500 or sports setting, ISO 200

For in the plane - Program setting, ISO 200-800 depending on the available light (i.e. if it's the Skyvan near sunset, ISO 800, if it's an Otter on a sunny day, 200)

The exposure compensation dial is a really nice feature for dark aircraft. Crank it up if you're shooting against bright windows to wash out the windows and get a decent exposure on the student.

(BTW overall one of the nicest thing about the G10 is that you can do all of this just by turning knobs; no menus or touchscreens involved.)

Image stabilizer set to shoot-only (doesn't matter that much at 1/500)



this is super good input - thanks, I might even print this one out and carry it on board while I figure out my own preferences

...
Driving is a one dimensional activity - a monkey can do it - being proud of your driving abilities is like being proud of being able to put on pants

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Bill don't forget to use the C1 and C2 settings.

You simply find what settings you like using and then save them to one of the C settings.

C stands for customized. You can set up two different customized settings.

Then just roll the knob to C1 or C2 and..... Walla.
Be the canopy pilot you want that other guy to be.

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Bill don't forget to use the C1 and C2 settings.

You simply find what settings you like using and then save them to one of the C settings.

C stands for customized. You can set up two different customized settings.

Then just roll the knob to C1 or C2 and..... Walla.



just like that - viola! C1 for bright days, C2 for darker days. nice

or maybe C1 for in the plane - C2 for outside the plane.....

Thanks, Sandy - this manual has a LOT of info and 'features' - do I really need to be able to wink to take a timer picture? maybe, I'll have to try it

...
Driving is a one dimensional activity - a monkey can do it - being proud of your driving abilities is like being proud of being able to put on pants

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I said ..... Walla...... not viola.

Isn't that a string instrument?



I believe the "walla" is some kind of australian horn:D

...
Driving is a one dimensional activity - a monkey can do it - being proud of your driving abilities is like being proud of being able to put on pants

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>Bill don't forget to use the C1 and C2 settings.

I thought about that, but honestly all the knobs make the camera so easy to use that I just use them in P or Tv mode. Since I have a terrible memory, that way I don't have to remember what's saved in C1 or C2. (Besides, it makes me look like I know what I'm doing!)

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I have the same problem with CRS.

So I use C1 as my primary (sunny and out doors) and C2 as my secondary (inside, in plane and over cast gloomy free fall).

It works well for me because some of the settings can only be accessed using the menu which I don't like messing with after it's on my helmet (it's mounted on my forehead). But that's just me.
Be the canopy pilot you want that other guy to be.

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I use the "Lens Mate" filter adapter on my G-10 with a good skylight filter to protect the lense and camera. Cannon makes a Filter adapter for this camera, but at full zoom the lense hits the filter? Poor design by Cannon.

Granted, for skydiving, you'll never go to full zoom. But, why take the chance of breaking the camera if you hit the wrong button? B|

Birdshit & Fools Productions

"Son, only two things fall from the sky."

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So I use C1 as my primary (sunny and out doors) and C2 as my secondary (inside, in plane and over cast gloomy free fall).



SG - I'd still love to have those settings from you - imitation being the sincerest form of flattery. Just to try on my own.

SJin'F - "the Lens Mate" - I'll look for it. Sounds good. But, from the pic below, I'll need to make room for it. (ha, I suspect once we finish the mods and assembly, at least the handycam will just stay with the helmet). I'm not sure where the plate that the still mounts to will go (or does it stay permanently on the rig vs on/off with the still??)

...
Driving is a one dimensional activity - a monkey can do it - being proud of your driving abilities is like being proud of being able to put on pants

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I'd be happy to give them to you. I don't have them written down.

But if you want to give me call sometime (when you have your camera and I have mine) I'll walk you through every page of the menu for my settings.

We'll also talk about what some of the settings do. I spent a lot of time and practice pictures coming up with them.

Just send me an email about a time for the call.
Be the canopy pilot you want that other guy to be.

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Hey Bill, before you mount your ring site, make sure you know how much room your still mount will take up.

Are you mounting the still so it sits on the forehead?

If you're using the mount that Mike L. came up with for your still, your ring site mount will have to be more to the side than you might think.

And it's not just the mount but where the camera ends up living after it's on the mount.

I sucks to mount the ring site only to have to move it later.
Be the canopy pilot you want that other guy to be.

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And one last thing.

After looking at your picture, you might want to be very careful with how tight you scrunch your cords.

When you see how small the wires are nside you'll realize how easy they are to break.

Wrapping and storing them too tight is the number one reason they break.
Be the canopy pilot you want that other guy to be.

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