Chrisky 0 #1 June 5, 2008 I'm looking at a Canon EOS 450D for topmounting. The kit with the EF-S 18-55 IS sounds tempting, as the lens supposingly is not too bad and really cheap. However, it's an IS lens, and I was wondering if that is an issue for skydiving? As I understood the IS in SLR lenses is achieved by a gyroscopic lens element? Anyone can elaborate?The mind is like a parachute - it only works once it's open. From the edge you just see more. ... Not every Swooper hooks & not every Hooker swoops ... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PhreeZone 15 #2 June 5, 2008 Just turn the IS off. With the lenses it really is as easy as sliding a button to disable the IS. In freefall the IS is pretty useless, it will give you about 2 stops more but for the most part we are shooting at settings that the extra 2 stops is not needed. On a dusk jump with out flash it might help a bit but that is about all I can think of in freefall. One thing is the IS does add weight to the lens. Yesterday is history And tomorrow is a mystery Parachutemanuals.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PharmerPhil 0 #3 June 5, 2008 QuoteJust turn the IS off... Do we know that it is as simple as that? I think the original poster was looking to see if the free-floating lens element will cause problems ala OIS in camcorders, or if it would be damaged by hard openings. If turning off IS doesn't lock the element down, a potential problem still exists. I would be curious to hear from someone who has actually jumped one. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chrisky 0 #4 June 5, 2008 Yup that's just what I'm curious about. I wasn't aware IS could be switched off on a lens. The question put clearly is: Is image stabilization in a Canon kit lens going to cause trouble if it can't be disabled? Will it adversely affect image quality? Would it be preferable to jump a non-IS lens? Can it be switched off permanently and effectively? The question is not being asked out of interest to make use of IS, but simply because the kit lens of the kit I'm looking at is an IS lens.The mind is like a parachute - it only works once it's open. From the edge you just see more. ... Not every Swooper hooks & not every Hooker swoops ... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dragon2 0 #5 June 5, 2008 I'd not even buy the kit lens but get a 15mm fixed lens, those are better quality, faster (f2.8) and they WORK ciel bleu, Saskia Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mnealtx 0 #6 June 5, 2008 QuoteYup that's just what I'm curious about. I wasn't aware IS could be switched off on a lens. The question put clearly is: Is image stabilization in a Canon kit lens going to cause trouble if it can't be disabled? It can be easily disabled by switch, as stated above. QuoteWill it adversely affect image quality? Doubtful - it helps counteract camera shake to an extent - it does *nothing* for subject movement, however. QuoteWould it be preferable to jump a non-IS lens? Can it be switched off permanently and effectively? See above. Whether you jump an IS lens or not is a personal preference, nothing more. Re: question about possible lens damage due to the stabilized element moving - I would think that *IS* a possibility, but probably a low order of probability unless you had a real slammer of an opening. I know of several people that have dropped IS lenses with no damage, and I'm speaking of lenses weighing several pounds vs. several ounces.Mike I love you, Shannon and Jim. POPS 9708 , SCR 14706 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chrisky 0 #7 June 5, 2008 In reviews the kit lens didnt actually do so bad, picture-quality wise. Plus as the build quality is maybe not premium, it should suffice (fixed installation on the mount) and be a bit more lightweight. I dont necessarily want to shell out loads of money for the lens, as I do have a solid 11-18mm 2.8 lens already for my general wa. photography. So the way I see it, if I start out with a rather cheap wideangle-lens, i could just as well go with the kit lens if the IS is no issue. I can always upgrade the lens if the results suck, but at 70 EUR (in kit), it's a good lens. The other lenses start at roughly 200 EUR, with good lenses above 450 EUR as usual. They also tend to be a wee bit more heavy, and for starters at least, I'd like to keep the weight down. I'm aware of the picture differences/drawbacks, but as long as I wont charge people for the pix, which will be a while until I get the hang of things, I'm not going to put premium stuff on there for that last extra shine. The mind is like a parachute - it only works once it's open. From the edge you just see more. ... Not every Swooper hooks & not every Hooker swoops ... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chrisky 0 #8 June 5, 2008 Cool. So I guess I'll go for the 450D with the kit lens. Thanks for the info! I'll try not to forget to report back on how things worked out.The mind is like a parachute - it only works once it's open. From the edge you just see more. ... Not every Swooper hooks & not every Hooker swoops ... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mnealtx 0 #9 June 5, 2008 QuoteCool. So I guess I'll go for the 450D with the kit lens. Thanks for the info! I'll try not to forget to report back on how things worked out. Good luck! See my tips in the other thread to lilchief about a few ideas to get the best possible quality: 1. Stay in the 'sweet spot' of the lens (probably at/around f8). 2. Learn how the different camera settings (using Av instead of Tv, hyperfocal distance, depth of field, etc) can affect your shots and make a plan to minimize those factors. 3. Remember that ANY time you let the camera control settings, it's going to make it's best guess at rendering the subject as equivalent to a 'neutral gray' shade - it has NO way of knowing what your subject is or how it should be (or how you want it) exposed. With all that said, it *usually* does a pretty decent job. *****I recommend getting Bryan Peterson's "Understanding Exposure" - it's a good, basic instructional book on understanding how the different settings tie in together and changing one setting affects the others.*****Mike I love you, Shannon and Jim. POPS 9708 , SCR 14706 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chrisky 0 #10 June 6, 2008 Thanks for the hints, I've been shooting SLRs for like 18 years now, so I consider myself to have a pretty thorough understanding of the camera workings (excluding image stabilization of course ); I'll still read through the Settingsquestions thread - there's always new info out there. Thanks again! The mind is like a parachute - it only works once it's open. From the edge you just see more. ... Not every Swooper hooks & not every Hooker swoops ... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mnealtx 0 #11 June 6, 2008 Good luck!!Mike I love you, Shannon and Jim. POPS 9708 , SCR 14706 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
