Liemberg 0 #26 February 27, 2008 Quote I don't have the EXIF plug, I didn't either. But had it installed in firefox in about 10 seconds after reading about it here and googling it... Amazing gadget...*) Anyway - the dark pic was taken with a shutter speed of 1/1000 while the lighter one was taken with 1/200, not to mention difference in focal lenght (18mm / 24 mm) so, before recalibrating the monitor, sacrificing virgins and what have you not - well, what others already said.... *) A gadget the official greeny of a photography forum cannot do without IMO "Whoever in discussion adduces authority uses not intellect but memory." - Leonardo da Vinci A thousand words... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mnealtx 0 #27 February 27, 2008 QuoteAll the above advice is good, but here's another take. It is always difficult for a camera's auto exposure to get things right when things are unusually bright (like a white car and an overcast sky) or unusually dark (outdoors shots at night). The camera wants to see an "average" amount of brightness throughout the frame. When it sees lots of white, it turns down the exposure to try to compensate. Basically, it doesn't know your car is white, and it is trying to make everything average out to gray. (This is why many amateur snow scenes look like the snow is gray.) Assuming you didn't crop the images you posted, the second image is closer and hence, more of the frame is filled with the white car. Here is a way to cheat it. Get a cheap 18% gray lens cleaning cloth and keep it with you (available at any camera store). In the light you will be shooting, fill the image with this gray cloth on auto exposure, and lock the exposure down (i.e. if it say f8 at 160/sec, set it to manual using those settings). Re-frame your shot, shoot away, and white should appear white again. In a pinch, you can use a gray sweat shirt for setting exposure. BTW, this is why good wedding photographers are hyper critical of exposure. Getting exposure right with white wedding gowns and black tuxedos can be difficult. Another good way is to carry a white terrycloth washcloth with you. The washcloth SHOULD be the brightest thing in the pic, outside of specular highlights (sun reflecting from chrome, etc). Expand the pic and check the brightness/texture of the washcloth in the LCD screen - if you get "blinkies" or lose texture in the washcloth, back off the exposure a tiny bit. Once you've got the exposure right, take the washcloth out of the pic and re-shoot.Mike I love you, Shannon and Jim. POPS 9708 , SCR 14706 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mnealtx 0 #28 February 27, 2008 QuoteGood advice... but in this case he was shooting manual: * Exposure Time (1 / Shutter Speed) = 1/1000 second = 0.001 second * Lens F-Number/F-Stop = 35/10 = F3.5 * Exposure Program = manual control (1) * ISO Speed Ratings = 100 Just a matter of underexposing because of too high a shutter speed. Marko... in M mode, the exposure compensation meter on the screen or in the viewfinder becomes an exposure meter. If it's pointing too far to the left, you're underexposing. But like Phil said, it's easy to confuse the meter when you're shooting something especially bright or dark. Dave 1/200 sec vs. 1/1000 sec... looking at about 2.5 stops difference in exposure...no WONDER it's darker!Mike I love you, Shannon and Jim. POPS 9708 , SCR 14706 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
swoop2471 0 #29 August 28, 2008 are these the best all around settings for gettin started with the xti...? if so... thanks... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
