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tobi778

Premature break release

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Hey everyone!

I put a few jumps on my 10 jumps old Wings rig with Vengeance 120 main this weekend. I really love the rig and I am very satisfied with the main also (loaded ~1.5). The only thing that I don't like about it is that when I collapse the slider and pull it down behind my head the left toggle almost always becomes loose. Sometimes it has even stuck to the slider grommet, making for an "interesting" canopy ride. On one jump the toggle got loose and the steering line wrapped around the toggle somehow, I was lucky to be able to get my finger through the toggle and not have to chop it.

Has anyone else experienced this with the Wings riser/toggle setup? Oh, when i collapse the slider I use the two strings to pull it down behind my head in one motion. Should I try another technique? I don't want to waste anymore time than necessary doing this. I have tried stowing the toggle in different ways but nothing seems to help, the slider grommet seems to be too tihght for the riser although I use the type 17 risers.

My previous rig was an Atom Millennium and I did not have this problem then, the toggles were narrower and softer and did not stick to the grommet.

Any sugestions what I should do?

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My Brother had that type of trouble. his risers are 18 inch risers and the toggles had the tabs really close together. It made it difficult to pull the slider down and would release the toggle unless he was very careful.

The fix was, I had built a set of vlecroless toggles while back. I sewed on another lower elastic keeper and put on the different toggles. The profile of the set up was much cleaner and the problem was solved.

Do you have short risers and toggles that have the tabs close to each other?
My grammar sometimes resembles that of magnetic refrigerator poetry... Ghetto

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I thought so. I had the same problem.
My first jump on a PD built Samurai pulled the toggle loose as I moved the slider down the riser. Long diving turn. I pushed the slider back up and got on the toggles and had lost over 1200'.

I made the mistake of ordering SS grommets on my Samurai (PD builds them). The SS is just a bit smaller than #8 brass grommets. There is just a little too much bulk at that point in the riser to get SS easily down the riser. I tried using two hands to pull the slider down and hold the toggle in it's keeper and wasted quite a bit of canopy time/ altitude. The brass #8 grommets slide over effortlessly. PD sweared that "no one else has this problem" when I called them.

I have 2 Samurai, the first w/ brass #8 grommets and the second was SS in a brand new Odyssey w/ mini risers. Both have soft links, there is really no reason for SS w/ soft links. I ended up springing the extra 100$ for a new slider w/ brass grommets.

Buy soft links and a new slider w/ brass#8 grommets. :|

Ken

"Buttons aren't toys." - Trillian
Ken

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I thought so. I had the same problem.
My first jump on a PD built Samurai pulled the toggle loose as I moved the slider down the riser. Long diving turn. I pushed the slider back up and got on the toggles and had lost over 1200'.

I made the mistake of ordering SS grommets on my Samurai (PD builds them). The SS is just a bit smaller than #8 brass grommets. There is just a little too much bulk at that point in the riser to get SS easily down the riser. I tried using two hands to pull the slider down and hold the toggle in it's keeper and wasted quite a bit of canopy time/ altitude. The brass #8 grommets slide over effortlessly. PD sweared that "no one else has this problem" when I called them.

I have 2 Samurai, the first w/ brass #8 grommets and the second was SS in a brand new Odyssey w/ mini risers. Both have soft links, there is really no reason for SS w/ soft links. I ended up springing the extra 100$ for a new slider w/ brass grommets.

Buy soft links and a new slider w/ brass#8 grommets. :|

Ken



I have a Samurai 136 and have had the same problems with the stainless steel and the toggles. On opening, when I first got it (50 jumps ago) I collapsed the slider then pulled it down behind my head (like I would with my 150) and popped my toggle. Talk about spin and having a greI have the double stowes top and bottom. I talked with Brian and he talked me through a different technique to pulling it down. You pinch the toggles with your thumb and middle finger while pulling down with you index. MAKE SURE YOU ARE CLEAR prior to attempting. Nothing like playing in a 120 way while doing this... I will have to check on the slider. Anything to make it a little safer.
Thanks for the info.
Airborne
Blue Skies, No Wind
Feet and Knees Together

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I have exactly the same problem with my samuria 150 and S/S grommets
third jump on mine pulling the slider down it released the rh brake and then jammed up
that was an interesting few seconds attempting to free it off.
now i usually grab the grommets and keep them level as they come past the toggles.
its still a bitch to get it past the dive loops though.
thats a good tip about the brass grommets.
maybe a new slider is in order.

Fear is that little darkroom where negatives are developed.
Michael Pritchard.

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there is really no reason for SS w/ soft links.



Not exactly true (and I have no problems getting my PD stainless steel gromets over my toggles on my Odyssey). Brass does not hold up well agianst Vectran lines. The vectran eats into the Brass. Thats a reason to get SS.

If you get brass because they are lighter they recommend you get a slightly smaller slider. I perfer the SS cause they'll take the abuse in the long run.

--
Jonathan Bartlett
D-24876
AFF-I

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