Camera helmets related to deaths? PC110 and helmet

[shotat 0]

Hello all, my question is this, I recently bought a PC110 and was all excited about getting one of those helmets where the camcorder mounts on the side like the bonehead models. I was wanting to start doing video and shooting some stills of my buds. Then, I heard about two people recently killed because of riser entanglement or something on their helmets. Also in the same weekend two guys at the dz had their wide angle lenses snapped off of their side mount helmets. Now, is this a common problem and if so what about the people who are not having the problem? what are they doing different? I would love to shoot some video but I am not about to get myslef killed over it and I dont have 200 bucks to spend on new wide angle lenses or 1500 on a new camcorder. Suggestions and experiences please! thanks..........

[Head 0]

Shotat,
I've been doing video for over 3 years now, all with a sidemounted camera and eventually I added a top-mounted 35mm still camera. Not once (knock on wood) in those years have I had a riser catch my cameras. I feel that opening is the key here and that involves many elements. One is, I feel, the type of main you jump and how you pack it. I jumped a 120 for the first year and a 105 ever since (I'm a 135 lb. female). My packing and openings are extremely consistent. Stability on opening is another, rather obvious factor. I've also learned how to manuever my head for opening. However, even in the presence of proper performance of all of these elements, and as we all know with skydiving in general, shit can happen. But experience has led me to where I am. My advice is to talk to as many cameramen/women that you can get your hands on and ask them similar questions. Feel free to ask me any other questions that I haven't answered and I'll try to do so!
Head

[ramon 0]

I have a PC5. Granted it is a little shorter and fatter than the 110, but Bonehead makes a D box for it ($200...sheeeit). I bought a small ($95).5 wide anlge lens and it fits totally inside my D-Box thereby really minimizing the potential of knocking of the lens.
The bigger lenses tens to jut outside or if not on a Dbox, be totally exposed.
As far as tangled lines....I don't have a ring sight or a top mount camera. personally I would be prepared to remove the helmet and cutaway without an RSL hookup , get stable and then pull reserve.
Bloo skies and be cautious.
ramon

[BarrettJ99 0]

Check out www.bhphotovideo.com, you can get a pretty good quality .5 wide angle lens there for about $40. I have a PC-5 with both the .5 and .42 kenko lenses. They both work great.
-T1
C-30757

[FreeFlyFreaky 0]

I too am about to drop a load on a new PC-110 and don't relish the idea of giving it the proverbial drop kick but will gladly do so if I have to. A safe and stable deployment is obviously the key. But if you ever found your self dangling by the neck from a canopy you just tried to cutaway a method to get untangled from it makes a lot of sense too.
I saw a helmet system that relates to your post and one that I really want to get.
A few weeks ago a guy came to our DZ with a chin-strap cutaway system for releasing his helmet. The corrugated straps were fixed to the helmet, normally I have seen these mounted on the chin cup. The chin cup had the little strap grippers mounted on the edges of the cup.
The chin cup also had a bowed piece of surgical tubing mounted on the underside of the cup for a quick finger snatch release. The release disengaged the gripper on one side of the strap. The surgical tubing was a cover for a wire connected to a cotter pin that went through the metal post that held one of the grippers on the cup. Other methods could certainly be employed but it was a very ingenious setup.
Thoughts on this?
Have any of you seen this before? Know of anyone who can make something like this?
Whit

[JeanJeanie 0]

Hi Folks,
I just was e mailed a really cool pic of a simple chin cup cutaway system. I think it would work great with the Freefly helmets that have been modified for cameras. I'm am looking into a way to also make it fool proof for the BatRak. I just worry that the tighter fit will not allow the helmet to come off the head even without the chin cup. Especially with the larger craniums.
Let me know if you want me to send pics or if there is a way to post them here. Total cost on the parts is less than $5 and easily done at home.
Thanks , jeanie
Bonehead Composites is not responsible for accidents or injuries occuring while using our products. The wearer uses our products at their own risk with full knowledge of the risks involved in their activities. At the moment of purchase the user accepts all risks and responsibility for their own well being and property.

[wildblue 4]

Quote

The chin cup also had a bowed piece of surgical tubing mounted on the underside of the cup for a quick finger snatch release. The release disengaged the gripper on one side of the strap. The surgical tubing was a cover for a wire connected to a cotter pin that went through the metal post that held one of the grippers on the cup. Other methods could certainly be employed but it was a very ingenious setup.

Was the pin holding the gripper to the cup? Or was it holding the gripper together? I was thinking of a setup like this the other day, then saw your post. I was thinking of having the pin keep the gripper together though. Having it keep the gripper on the cup seems like the pin would be poking you in the chin. The grippers themselves havea pin through them that the spring goes around, it holds the part that actually grips the strap to the channel that the strap goes through.... if that makes any sense.

[cameramonkey 0]

Jeannie,
If you could find a way to replace the hinge pin on the Bat Rak with a removeable pin, as well as a way to release one side of the tension strap on the back of the head, the helmet would just fall right off the head of the wearer. :)