LongWayToFall

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Posts posted by LongWayToFall

  4. damn you upload limit. I reduced my picture's image quality so low you can't even see what it is anymore, and its still 5x too big. So basically, what it looks like, is the slide button on the outside of the chair has 3 positions, center, forward and back. when you are not touching it, it is in the center, and none of the wires are connected. when you push it forward, the forward wire and the center wire are connected, giving power from the center to the forward wire. same for the rear. all you wanna do is swap the forward and rear wires, so that it will make it work in reverse. (the correct way, from now on)

  5. The battery is simple. The terminals will look something like this:

    http://www.gmccoop.com/images/Battery-terminal-melted.jpg

    See that nut on the right hand side of the metal part? That is what you want to loosen. You wont have to take it off all the way, just so its loose enough to spin with your hand. Then take the terminal off of the battery. (You want to remove the negative terminal, not the positive. Although it really won't make any difference) make sure once you take it off, it is not touching any metal parts of the car, wrap it in a rag or something.
    So, for the switch, get to the back of it and take a look at what you find. You mentioned that it has programmed settings and whatnot, so there will be a bunch of wires and a circuit board of some type. What you need to find is the direct rear of the switch you want to change. (I cant remember if you said up-down or forward-back) Hopefully you will find 3 wires, they should have a layout looking something like the attachment on this post. If you have a multimeter or light bulb tester, you can try to find out which one is the one coming from the battery, this will always have + juice going to it (but not if you disconnect the battery, so do it after you establish which wires are what) The easiest thing would be to just cut one of the wires, and see what stopped working. If the chair only moves backwards now, you know that you cut the wire controlling forward (and vise versa) if they both stop working, than you cut the power wire, and gotta hook it back up. Once you know which 2 wires are the ones you want, cut and switch them. make sure you either solder them or tape em up real good, you don't want the wire to come apart later.
    Don't worry about getting shocked, you can't even feel 12 volts unless its on your tongue.

  6. $250 per item is allot, unless you are talking about something major, such as the blown head gasket you mentioned. You got a deal on that one. Don't worry about the oil leaking out of the front differential. You could have zero oil in it, and it would not harm anything if you didn't drive it in 4 wheel drive. If you did want to drive it in 4x4, you could always have a little oil with you, and throw it in right before you do go off roading. (there is a little plug on the front of the diff you take out, with the car on level ground, you want the oil level to be even with this hole, ie drips out until it stops dripping) As far as the AC, someone has to be wrong, obviously, because of the 2 different diagnosis. The price does seem right though, because shop rate is about 100 an hour, and there is usually a minimum 1 hour for diagnostics. Usually when the AC stops working, it just because the system leaked out pressure slowly and now it doesn't work, not that anything is broken per say. It would be well worth your time to go to the local auto zone or what have you and picking up a bottle of recharge with the gauge on it, all you have to do it screw it onto the line (it is similar to a bicycle tire valve) and fill the thing up, the bottle will tell you what to do. Ask the dealer #2 what tests they did to establish that the switch was bad, if the system does indeed have pressure and the sensor is indicating that it does not, then it would make sense that it is bad. Go buy the sensor at a parts store, and throw it in yourself. Get a chilton's manual and it will explain a whole bunch of stuff. Oh, one last thing, for the seat switch that is backwards, just go behind the switch and there should be 3 wires, one is going to be the hot coming in, and the other 2 go to the motor (or possibly a solenoid, no matter) just switch the 2 wires, so that when you press forward, instead of it completing the circuit with the energy going to the motor to make it go forward, it makes it go backward. Simple!!!! You can switch it at the motor too, if the switch side is a big circuit board.
    Hope your repair troubles get to be smoother with an independent shop. Do some research online though, or talk to people, and find a reputable shop

  8. I made my first jump on my new rig the other day, which is a 210 PD 9cell. I have been using a sabre2 210 for a long time, and have also jumped a 190 (unknown make). On that first jump on the new rig, I got out last and pulled at 8-8.5k so I would have time to fly the canopy and get used to it before landing. Right after opening and canopy check, I stabbed a toggle like I am used to, and it did the same thing, spun up and I had spinning line twists. I kicked out of it in about 500ft, and didn't worry too much about it because I was at a high altitude, but I sure was thinking about cutting away. New canopies respond in new ways, and it takes time to adjust. Pay attention to your altitude, and if you are not under a landable parachute at your decision altitude, cut away. You did good and survived to jump another day, but anytime you jump a new canopy you need to be extra heads up. I didn't think that an old school square parachute would be as responsive as it was, and it bit me, I learned allot. Do what your instructors say!! is all I can tell you

  11. Better hope it comes with a box of road flares just in case you get stuck in the dark. I love how they say they are trying to market it to people in the middle east. What does a multi millionaire oil baller do with his money? Buy solar powered stuff. YEAH RIGHT

  12. There are many companies that deal with this sort of thing, I would look up ones that deal with motorcycles, it will be close to the same size as the boat when packaged. hopefully the mast comes off and comes apart, if its a 6ft hull the mast has gotta be 10+ feet

  14. No sorry I was confused, it is happening tonight. I hope he is using F111 fabric on his chutes, Going from almost zero psi to 14.7 is going to try to push air into the pack, I wonder if zero P is going to not let it in fast enough, and compress it down a bunch. At least on the way up he has 2 hours to vent the air out. If he has done his homework, he will have pressure cycled the rig though.

  20. Do a tandem first, it will help you get rid of the OH CRAP feeling of your first dive. Then do your aff, if you are certain you want to go with training, then camp out until the next day, because during that time you are bound to learn a few things from the old locals.

  23. As soon as you get off of AFF, you are going to be waiting for packers to get you ready for the next jump. The waiting doesn't really stop ever I guess, but at least when you are packing your own rig it gives you something to occupy yourself before the next load. Also, the more experienced you get, the more conditions you can jump in, which will increase your jumping time frame. When you find yourself bored, just help out around the dz and get to know some of the people there better. They can teach you some cool stuff!

  25. That is allot of info! Some of the pictures are hard to see though. I was researching flat packing after I came home from the dz after learning the method I was taught, and came across this:

    http://www.performancedesigns.com/docs/Reserve_manual.pdf

    In it, they flake the material between the line groups to the outside, essentially making exactly what a pro-pack is. I was under the impression if they had not done this, it would not be a pro pack? You are saying that even if the material is left to one side or the other, the fact that the nose is pointing towards the bottom of the deployment bag and the tail is on top makes it a pro pack? I guess I am confused a bit with the different styles here.

    P.S. I love firm openings, before I bought this canopy I was jumping a Sabre2 210, and it had brisk openings as well. I just haven't jumped this canopy enough times to become comfortable with it, the first couple pro pack openings I had were certainly the upper limit with how fast I want them, it was fully open in about 1 second after reaching line stretch, in about 500ft from pitch. If i knew for a fact that this is the fastest it would open, I would be fine with it, but the thought of any faster makes me scared!!!