Canon Rebel XT

[Skytony 0]

I just purchased one of these digital Rebels. I've searched around for what settings to use, and also read up on "hyperfocal distance". I've also been in and out of the owner's manual a bunch. I have some playing around to do.

I do have a question about shooting in the "auto" modes. I will probably get a bite switch, as that is what i use for stills on my HDR-HC3 camcorder. So... if shooting in "auto" mode how does the camera auto-focus? Will it focus when the bite switch is triggered (as the switch won't work like the button- depressing it 1/2 way to focus)?

Any input is appreciated.

[sinjin 0]

when you plug in the bite switch and turn the camera on (assuming the lens is in autofocus mode), it will act as though the button is pressed halfway. so it will be constantly focusing. i use the autofocus for tandems with the 18-55. i use a wide tandem rubber band to hold the lens at 18. ill use gaffers tape to lock the lens if i go full manual... enjoy it, it is a great camera

dont let life pass you by

[Icon134 0]

There is already a lot of discussion in this forum on camera settings.

Sufficed to say the settings each of us use are as varried as the people here... but I know many jumpers use manual focus and set the depth of field to cover a range from some distance to infinity.

Livin' on the Edge... sleeping with my rigger's wife...

[pilotdave 0]

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when you plug in the bite switch and turn the camera on (assuming the lens is in autofocus mode), it will act as though the button is pressed halfway. so it will be constantly focusing.

I believe that's only true if you use a mono switch. A stereo switch will focus and snap the picture when you press it. My XTi does not continuously focus while plugged in. The advantage of the mono switch is that the camera should focus more quickly (since it's always focusing), but the cost is battery life. Stereo switch works fine for me.

Dave

[BMFin 0]

Theres a short thread about the mono and stereo bite switch here

[Laszloimage 0]

As Pilot Dave said it, it will continuously AF and measure light (AE) if the plug is Mono or the switch is misswired.
The major disadvantege of it is your camera burns battery non stop. Also this "non stop focusing" called AI Servo only effective if the focus points are locked on the subject. In skydivng the camera can very easily think the subject is the Sun or the back ground. So it can fake the AF out and make everything worse. I use the AI servo mode with telefoto lenses for fast moving objects, but as I mentioned it only works if you can stay fixed on your subject. Normally I have to select only one focus point and look through the view finder.
With wide angle lenses skydiving the AI servo just burns extra battery and actually can make things worse.
The XTi can continuously focus as well, select AI servo mode.

[dragon2 0]

We intentionally wire our nikon remotes that way, I love it and the battery drain isn't that bad - my D70s could take a couple hundred freefall shots a day for a week without showing less than a full battery. The only shots I sometimes miss are when I move my head too fast sometimes during exit and when the tandem is opening and already getting very small and I move my head around to follow. This only happens once in 10-20 jumps or so, otherwise the AF and lighting is great, even straight against the sun and other difficult situations. This is something my Canon D30 and 300D couldn't do, always had to put canon cameras on spot metering (which the 300d didn't have, grrr) but then, nikon has always had better matrix light metering. The AF depends on the camera as well as the lens, if you use a crappy kit lens you can forget about doing this without getting a lot more out of focus pics.

ciel bleu,
Saskia

[Skytony 0]

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Quote

when you plug in the bite switch and turn the camera on (assuming the lens is in autofocus mode), it will act as though the button is pressed halfway. so it will be constantly focusing.

I believe that's only true if you use a mono switch. A stereo switch will focus and snap the picture when you press it. My XTi does not continuously focus while plugged in. The advantage of the mono switch is that the camera should focus more quickly (since it's always focusing), but the cost is battery life. Stereo switch works fine for me.

Dave

Thanks everyone for the quick responses. I ended up ordering the stereo switch from Conseptus (spelling?) via the Aerostore with the direct plug for the Rebel XT.

I believe that the stereo is now the only type switch that they sell. Correct me if I'm wrong.

[Laszloimage 0]

I heard about those issues with the 300D...
I abused mine so bad, bit the crap out of it and it still works. I never had that "freez up" or "error 99" issue.
Also spot metering, AI servo, ansd etc. were enabeld with a firm ware. This was available on the internet for free and it was easy to upgrade the camera from the CF card. (basically the 300D was turned into a 10D except the burst mode...)

...for skydiving use (not for every day tandem though) hard to beat the 5D. Size, weight, resolution, full frame, low noise, color, easy use, and etc...

[dragon2 0]

I sold my 300D as fast as I could after world team '04. The firmware hack wasn't available then or I only learned of it later, can't remember. Anyway my warranty was still valid when I got rid of it so wouldn't have tried it yet anyway. I had plenty of error99, enough to cure me of canon after having had 3 nice eos cameras (loved my D30) and make the (expensive) switch to nikon. We also saw plenty of err99 on 10Ds and a few on 20D. My nikons never did anything like that to me.

The 5D is very nice, too bad about the price though. I'd love a fullframe camera in a 40D/D80 size and price range

ciel bleu,
Saskia

[DSE 3]

I've had the occasional error 99 with my XT, but not seen it with the 40D.
In fact, I set up my XT specifically to reach the battery, in the event of the error 99.

[pilotdave 0]

I must be doing something wrong... never seen an err99 on my XT/XTi. Hope I didn't just jinx myself...
Dave

[AS1 0]

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I will probably get a bite switch, as that is what i use for stills on my HDR-HC3 camcorder.

Do you mean you can access the stills feature on the camcorder with a bite switch? I didn't think there was a way to do this. If you can how do you do it and would it work with an HC5/7? I think you only get 3 stills if the camera is recording but it would be fun to play with. Or have I misunderstood something?

[Skytony 0]

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I will probably get a bite switch, as that is what i use for stills on my HDR-HC3 camcorder.

Do you mean you can access the stills feature on the camcorder with a bite switch? I didn't think there was a way to do this. If you can how do you do it and would it work with an HC5/7? I think you only get 3 stills if the camera is recording but it would be fun to play with. Or have I misunderstood
something?

I was waiting for someone to ask about this. Yes I have a bite switch hooked up through the hardwire remote control. I also have the Cameye II hooked in also. You need above average soldering skills. Take the board out of the remote control, when it's all wired I used heat shrink to hold everything together. The 4mp still camera produces pictures good enough to print 13"x19", if taken in good light. The HC7, I understand, has a 6mp still camera.

I'll be doing a HC7 for one of my videographers in the near future, our season starts soon. I'll have to take some pictures as I go and put a "how-to" together.

[Laszloimage 0]

I have to agree about the "above the average" sodering skills. I modified a few of those remotes already (both the LANC and the D-link versions).
The D-link (through the A/V port) can control the CX7. Top of that I wired the LED's externally as well, so it functions as a CamEye.
-Laszlo-