indyz

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Posts posted by indyz


  1. Wow, this thread keeps coming back year after year.

    Aerodyne will happily make you a hybrid or full dacron lineset. You really want full dacron for CRW, unless you think you are good enough to only wrap people with the center lines. That said, modifying the canopy to have a retractable bridle isn't as simple as sewing rings to the topskin. The hybrid Tri also has diagonal reinforcement tapes on the ribs and spanwise reinforcing tapes on the topskin. Without the reinforcing you will eventually damage the canopy. Doing the conversion right isn't a particularly challenging project for a qualified rigger, but it is time consuming. Between the lineset, parts, and labor you will probably be halfway to the cost of a new canopy.

  2. PhreeZone

    It looks like the team is using Lightnings as canopies. Those are one of the worst landing canopies out there and I am not aware of any other team that is using those for accuracy landing demos. They tend to need some speed to get good landings since they are designed more for canopy formations then they are landing.


    Lightnings are available in "demo trim", which lands quite a bit better than the usual bigway trim.

  3. The cast MDS is probably too thick for what you want. I've used the "Self-Lubricating MDS-Filled Nylon" for projects, including container repairs. 1/16" is a popular size for flaps with grommets. MDS is tough to sew through, so I use 1/16" HPDE in places where need to sew through the stiffener and also don't need as much strength or durability as MDS.

    As far as foam from Foam Factory, I bought this stuff. The 1/8" is good for things like container linings, and 1/4" works for leg pads. If I was copying newer "deluxe" leg pads, I would probably go with 3/8" or 1/2".

  4. I'm not a fan of using pull-up cords for cross connectors. They might work ok to get you through the day, but they aren't a good permanent solution. I have personally seen cross connectors break that were made out of Type III tape (ribbon type pull-up cords), and have seen knots come untied. I have no idea what material the new kind of pull-up cords are made out of, but I wouldn't count on it being any stronger.

    1" Type IV square weave is more than twice as strong as binding tape, it handles wear better, and when the formation gets heavy it is more comfortable for the personal holding the grip.

  5. It doesn't look like it. Their website only says it was tested to TSO-C23d standards and they link to a Serbian type certificate. The FAA TSO database doesn't list anything. The FAA doesn't recognize foreign TSOs on parachutes, so their Serbian certification wouldn't count for anything in the US.

  6. Most of the servos on the market come out of the same factory in China and are sold to dozens of distributors who put their own labels on them. Your servo motor and the Consew you used are probably identical.

  7. peek

    I have purchased a couple of large diagonal cutters at local stores that have worked well (assuming they stay sharp). Maybe $10 to $20? I have never seen anything on the packaging that says "not for steel".


    I've used dikes and can usually get a serviceable cut with them, but in my experience purpose-built cable cutters with triangular or curved blades are consistently better. Our dropzone has a bench-mounted cutter that is awesome, but also expensive and non-portable. I've gotten a couple recommendations via PM that I'm going to follow up on, including this one. Para Gear also has a cutter for $65.

  8. JerryBaumchen

    Hi Lee,

    Quote

    Did it actually have a reverse?



    Yes it did. It had an extra foot pedal installed & that is what would throw it into reverse. He never had to lift the presser foot or take his hands off of the webbing.


    I'll have to practice that. I've got a 7-33 with reverse (it would have been a steal even if it hadn't been converted), but I only use forwards.

  9. pchapman

    Re: $18.39 dies

    I thought the regular cheap dies will work fine for a Stainless Steel grommet -- when it is a little #0 one. Not for a commercial production line perhaps, but entirely usable at home. And if the die ever wears or chips or whatever, a replacement is cheap.

    Someone with more experience than my occasional #0 SS smacking may have a more informed and different opinion?



    It'll set a couple of grommets, but the stainless will damage the die very quickly. I ruined mine in less than a half dozen grommets.