airnutt

Thanks for the drawing, I do have the manual and the supplement, the print on my drawing was so small and hard to read I had to borrow one

I have a reflex that has come in for a repack and I'm looking for dimensions to make a reserve closing loop.any help would be appreciated.

Is Parachute Systems still in business?

Replace it as time goes on you never know if that edge could have some wear on the inside of the riser where it will be hard to see

20 hours ago, sheeks said:

So you pull stable, the line stows release in proper sequence, the parachute comes out of the bag when it’s supposed to, and luckily because all the stars are aligned, the direction of air is coming directly directly upwards into the slider, keeping it in it’s proper place as the canopy inflates. Congratulations, you’ve just had a succesful and steady canopy opening.

 

Now, let’s just say the stars aren’t aligned. You rushed the pack because you didn’t want to be late for the next load. Your rubber bands are getting a little old, and you get so caught up with your buddies in the air that you end up losing altitude awareness and seperating a little on the late side of things. You still get to pull at 3500, but this time you still haven’t slowed down from the track and between your increased speed and the age of your stows, your bag starts to open a little prematurely. Instead of opening directly over your head, your canopy is angled and not properly tense by the time it comes out of the bag. This increase in chaos allows some air to start slipping in behind your slider, because the canopy is too sideways for the air to catch into the bottom of the slider in the way it’s supposed to. You get a bottom skin inflation, and your canopy is opened harder than you’d like. At the least you get a few bruises, at the most your family is mourning your loss.

 

Now, maybe if the slider had a bit more fabric to it, and was more domed instead of being shaped so flat the way it is, the chaos of the airflow into the canopy might have been a little more controlled, and instead of that air slipping in behind the slider, it would have been more directed into the path of least resistance inside the slider where it should have been going, and kept the slider up long enough for the canopy to open more controlled in the way it was supposed to. 

Take a plastic bag, and rush it through the air 100 times in a row. How many times does it inflate the way you want it to?

Now cut out a rectangular segment from that plastic bag, give it just a few inches of slack, and rush it through the air 100 times in a row. How many times does it inflate the way you want it to?

 

The point i’m getting at, is maybe slider modifications that help a slider catch air better aren’t only for canopies that open too hard. Maybe instead of only domed sliders on Sabre 1’s, that domed sliders on spectre’s, pilot’s, and safire’s wouldn’t be such a bad idea. If they make a canopy open TOO slow, then maybe a smaller domed slider is better than a larger normal/flat slider. 

 

Sliders obviously don’t have to fill up to the size of a basketball, but maybe just having an extra two or three inches of slack in the fabric could make a world of difference when it comes to less than desirable openings, and would probably only increase opening time by 1-3 hundred feet. 

 

How often do you hear of a hard opening with a pocket slider or domed slider? Far less often than with regular canopies.

 

Thoughts? 

it seems that dome sliders do work, I jumped a canopy from Paratec and noticed that the slider was not rectangular but domed shape, it really had an affect on the openings, a few years later packing tamdems I saw a dome slider on the sigmas and they had great opening. looking at todays canopies and their crossport designs and tapered leading edges on high perf canopies, manufactures are doing great things with openings.So its hard to say whether it's canopy design with today's tech. that's allowing canopies to open slower or is it slider design. After a few years in the sport I learned that even if you think you have the best opening canopy, you may have that one opening that will zap you, whether it be from air temp, or cond in the air or whatever it may be

vectors are nice and so is digi camo, have you checked out multi-cam fabrics, a company named Firebird in Eloy offers it as well as multi-cam webbing

Some p/c hesitations might be caused by your kill line shrinking and being to short.when cocking your p/c not only check the window on the bridle for color, but, check the inside of p/c after it's cocked and your center line(s) should be showing no slack, but your kill line should show a little slack, or the same length as center line(s)

It doesn't look bad from the pic, when in doubt consult the manufacturer of the gear, they'll probably know more than some local riggers.

I'm not sure if I agree with the slider placement in vid he was doing from side to side, 2nd pd does not recommend doing what he did to the nose.3, apocket slider is a nice idea, after about 150 jumps or so you'll start to see wear on the bartacks where the a & b line cascades are.
some of the things as a rigger I can suggest is P/c size, and F-111 vs zp, there are riggers who make dome or oversized sliders that work and also reline with dacron lines, they help absorb the opening shock.

yes and now a container manufacturer

No need to downsize unless you yourself know your ready, there's a lot at stake when downsizing such as reaction time in the event of a mal, landing conditions and field elevations, different locations and formations, enjoy the flight while you have the canopy.after all the years ive been jumping the same size canopy, I've actually gave some consideration to moving up in size as I get older and I don't jump as much as I use to,Blue Skies

most of the ideas are good even the pocket slider,just remember pocket sliders can stay up longer after a long snivel and after a hundred jumps or so you may start to see some wear on the bartacks where the a & b lines cascade, also make sure p/c size is not too big for the canopy size your jumping, check and see if your local rigger can build you a dome slider, theres a few out there

what are some of the ways a coil lock can occur, would it be rigger error or spring design

check out firebird usa they make the evo very comfortable

I
don't know if I would recommend sitting up during deployment,wouldn't you induce more speed in a sit position?

thanksRob I appreciate the info, this is Brian from Eloy I think I worked with you at Rigging Innovations for a while when you ran the loft.I just needed the input because I rarely run into people who have their reserves for this length of time.
Brian

I had a cust ask me to pack a res its a Raven 2 and DOM is Feb of 1987
should I pack it and if so should I do any tests on the fabric to ensure its safe

Nice catch. been rigging for a few years and was taught that a rigger should not have to tack the slink to the riser,because that's not the way the harness was TSO tested.I have had the same slinks on my main and res.no tackings or covers and they stay set.PD does recommend that after installing the slinks pull to 50lbs to set and that works for most risers

these are all good advice and if i may ad try relinig with 550 spectre line or dacron line as well as a bigger slider. thicker lines help absorb shockload

if jumping a canopy with spectra lines check outer a & c lines for shrinkage and then check steering and readjust to factory length

can't see the pics but knowing reflex's, get rid of it poptops never seet right

after working with voodoos for quite some time, it is one of the best built cont. on the market, if you put a large canopy in a voodoo they don't always look good. i would rec a talon they pack up nice and look good

learn how to pack properly for camera openings and at least some bellyfly experience

I was tought that packing data card always follows res canopy whereever it goes now some rigger trainees seem to think it follows the cont. I'd like more input