m0l

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Gear

  • Main Canopy Size
    120
  • Reserve Canopy Size
    135
  • AAD
    Cypres 2

Jump Profile

  • Home DZ
    Skydive Skane - Everod
  • License
    D
  • License Number
    18305
  • Number of Jumps
    1000
  • Years in Sport
    8
  • First Choice Discipline
    Freeflying
  • First Choice Discipline Jump Total
    950
  • Second Choice Discipline
    Formation Skydiving
  • Second Choice Discipline Jump Total
    50

Ratings and Rigging

  • IAD
    Jumpmaster
  • USPA Coach
    Yes
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  1. Hi! Clifton Cameras in the UK (look in google) had it on sale for £169 so it was a bargain. I got the ZCW200 wide lens for $20 on a US site so I have got the entire kit very cheap. I bought a class 10 SDcard and it super fast so no waiting after taking the pictures. can start a new sequence directly. Will modify switch later next week..
  2. Hi Jonntis! Well I know Kjell&Co and they are not famous for good quality ;-) I will have to test both I guess. The first thing just keeping it shooting is easy to test by just pressing the handle through the jump and see how it goes. If that does not work I will modifiy for a bite switch. Do you know if I should use the mono or stereo bite switch? Go my GX200 now - now I am nust looking for a ZCW-200 lens (30 g wide lens = a VERY light camera setup!). I wonder if there are any other 46 mm lenses with simmilar low weight and not costing a fortune...
  3. Thank you for the info! It seems as if I got hold of a used door from Ireland. Hope that it will fit!
  4. The sounds good that you can attach a bite switch to the cable. I was thinking of just adding a on-off switch to the JJC switch that simply keeps the shooting pressed so the camera is taking pictures continously (simmilar to this one http://www.electrokit.se/omkopplare-tryck-tryckknapp-bla-off-on_40220014 ) Then I would not have to have the button pressed all the time. My second option was to add a 2.5 mm connection directly to the JJC switch where I could attach the bite-switch directly (a contact like this one: http://www.electrokit.se/kontaktdon-2-5-mm-2-5-mm-jack-chassie-stereo_41002164) On the pictures that is presented above 3 cables are soldered onto the board. To what position should they be connected to on the bite switch? Are two cables sufficient?
  5. Hi! I am not sure if this will work but JJC manufactures a so called "JJC Luxary remote" for the GF1 (search amazon and you will find it) and if you search for Ricoh GX200 on the forum you will find plans for how to modify the switch to work with a bite-switch. Howver, the plans are for the GX200 and not for GX1 but the switch looks very simmilar...
  6. Hi! Thanks for the advice and the instructions. Have you tested if this modification works with Conceptus bite/tounge switch?
  7. Hi I actually looked at the Olympus EPL2 but I decided to go for the Ricoh GX200. GX200 is around 240g compared to the EPL2's 362g. The GX200 is used for shooting tandems (see forum) and it should be easy it modify for using a bite switch. I also looked at the Samsung NX100 (340g) and the Panasonic GF1 (285 exkl battery). The samsung has got the 2.5 mm serial connection but I never got around to test it wit the bite switch in the store... The Panasonic GF1 also has got the 2.5 mm serial but what I have read here is that it is not compatible with the bite conceptus bite switch...
  8. Hi! I have followed the post for a while. Do you know if there is anyone constructing or selling complete sliding door systems for a 206. We have been looking for a door for a while withour success. Any hints or sites that may have a door would great. andreeb77 - your door looks realy nice. Where did you get it? Thank you!
  9. Hi! I have followed the post for a while. Do you know if there is anyone constructing or selling complete sliding door systems for a 206. We have been looking for a door for a while withour success. Any hints or sites that may have a door would great. andreeb77 - your door looks realy nice. Where did you get it? Thank you!
  10. Hi! I just made my first jump with the Contour HD this weekend and the camera is perfect for skydiving. Light-weight (u dont even notice its there), laser pointers, rotatable lens, good quality on picture a.s.o. I does however lack image stabilisation. The "rolling shutter" is mainly a problem when you have a semi-optimal attachment to the helment (lots of shaking=more rolling shutter). A friend and I compared shots and his was a whole lot more shaky than mine and I think it depends on how you have attached it. I have my camera side mounted with a neoprene (soft) bottom that prevents small shaking. He had his top mounted directly to helmet. to prevent rolling shutter u can try 60 FPS setting - I have not tried it yet... U can find some video here: http://www.vholdr.com/user/10484 (unedited clips)