lilchief

see attached picture. That's the position of my sight.

edit: the yellow thing is just a straw tha flew over my face while sliding on my but towards the photographer. And I'm not jumping the PC 350 any more :)

ah, good point! Forgot to mention that.

Skysytems Vapor Wes Pro with cross sight on a shumacher removable 90 degree clamp. It's locates center with the sight straight down to my right eye. It's protected from riser strike and the carbon plate extends 1cm in front to act like a "bumper". I can post pictures later.

sweet! thanks for the tip!

Last week I was in Empurabrava, Spain, and filming a 4wy team. On the last day I came in for landing an set up for my standard 270 front riser-harness HP landing. After approx 90degrees I transition to harness and letting the front riser up.

But on this jump I looked to much into the turn and at the same time held my front riser to close to my helmet. When I started raising the right front riser wither my control line or A/B lines snagged my cross sight and the riser was stuck in full dive configuration!

I managed to understand fast what had happened, knowing that I have nylon screws, trying to clear it once and being prepared to snap the sight right off if I don't untangle the lines ASAP. I'd guess I was at about 500f here. It cleared on the one attempt and my sight was moved into a different angle, but stayed on. Came in just a tad low, bumped rears and then went on brakes.

Luckily I hadn't changed my swoop settings from my 1900ft MSL DZ to 0ft MSL Empuria. Have this been my 1900f DZ I'd had to dig hard I guess...

I know I'm a dumb f*** to make this happen and I've not read anything similar before. But now it's out here and hopefully people read this.

Lesson learned:
- Thank god for nylon screws!
- Don't pull front risers into your eyes
- And at the same time have a camera helmet on
- Maybe not look so hard into the turn with camera gear.

Oh well...I live another day.

Stay safe guys.

My gearbag is in dire need of a new zipper. I assumed that the local sewing stores had zippers in plenty, but they only matched pants.

Looked at Paragear but they only have 36" or 72" lengths. Mine need to be approx 55" long and possibly dividable(makes it easier to install).

It's a older Square1 large gearbag.

Any tips, links, pointer on sewing it and finding the zipper?

I know that I need to have even pressure on the thread on both sides when sewing, so it's best to do it in one day.

I'm using a Pfaff 118 industrial machine with zig-zag + straight.

I've both jumped the Sigma and Canon 15mm lenses and they're quite similar. The most noticeable difference from the two, is the AF speed. With the Sigma 15mm I couldn't use the sport program for tandems because of slow AF speed. It resulted in exit shots beeing bust.

With the Canon, sport porgram works flawlessly on my 450D body(T1i or something?). And if you feel creative, manually a f8 or higher gives brilliant shots! Highly recomennded lens! :)

Just had my 7D sent inn after getting ERR 40 on the display. It tuned out that my weathersealed/weatherproof camera can't take rain.

I'm now in the process of using the consumer watch dog here in Norway to solve the matter and get a new 7D from Canon, but it takes time.

So if you think that your 7D will survive rain and snow uncovered, think again. The manual also says that operation condition is not below 32F...also stupid IMO since they advertise something else.

Cover your 7D when outside in rain and snow and maybe invest in an service plan for you 7D to be on the safe side.

I don't recall how much, but I extended the breaklines, but they're not super long that some has. I got enought to go full frontriser withouth activating the tail.

I also have 23" risers.

The scenery is absolutely wonderful! There are a couple of DZ in Norway that are just as good or better. This one is in Oppdal, in the middle of Norway. but Bjorli DZ has the troll wall close to it, Voss has the best scenery IMO and you also have Bodoe(spelled Bodø in Norwegian) and Tromsø up North.

At voss we often jump in Gudvangen, a 2000f wide valley with 5000f mountains to fly close to. Epic!

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Just playing devils advocate here.....

I've actually never understood that term, not in english or norwegian

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But are you sure you didn't just stall the left side of your canopy through too much toggle input?

>Yes. I was on "full brakes"(80%-ish) with a little more on the left side, but I didn't feel that I was on the point of stalling. If it had been a 1.1 WL canopy, then I'd been on the absolute edge and would have had to let me sink under him to avoid stalling. It also came very unexpected and abrupt like when you stall your canopy on rears.

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Does the video start with you on full brakes?

> No, but some 80% ish I'd reckon. I wrote on the video that I'm on full brakes, but when I'm thinking of it, more or less 80% would be a more accurate assumption. I could let the breaks up slightly when I saw that he came lower then be after the last 360.

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Or do you transition from full flight into full brakes?

> no, I was hanging on at first to allow him to get down to me. Then I had to slide to the side by raising the right toggle slightly.

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It looks like you were on full brakes but still sidesliding left so as to arrive behind your friend. Therefore, there would have been slightly more input on the left toggle, perhaps past the stall point. Which, whilst your airspeed was initially high, is OK, (either because you transitioned from full speed quite quickly into full brakes).

> yes, but then it would have stalled on me earlier and not behind him? When the canopy stalled on me, I had basically positioned myself directly behind him and a little higher.

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But then as the airspeed bleeds off very quickly, you may have stalled the left side of your canopy yourself.

> that's indeed true if I'd come from full flight. You may experience a stall at higher speeds if you transition from full speed to a high angle of attack(AOA) in a short period of time. The higher the AOA the higher the stall speed.

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Not saying you didn't experience any burble from the canopy in front of you, but perhaps the maneuver you carried out previous also contributed just as much to the situation as the burble did.

> That may be true. But I believe that I hit my friend's burble.

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Just something to think about as even the poster above remarks that was still some distance behind.

> jupp. But burbles may stay far behind an object. The turbulence behind a hangar may be twice as high and ten times as long as the hangar it self I'm told. But that depends on the wind speed and size of the hangar.

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Maybe Aggie or someone just as experienced could comment further.

> jupp. that would have been awesome. It's always good to have someone more experienced comment on situations :)

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In fairness though I was not there and I've surmised/deduced a bit too much from your video me thinks.

> yes, but you had some good questions, not only for me to reflect on the incident, but also for others to learn :)

I' also very glad you didn't start flaming me as is unfortunately very often here

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Blue Skies (and Velo flight above 2.1 rocks!!)

oh yeah!

4 months lay off due to exams at school, plane in for maintenance and yadayadayada...

I wanted to take some nice pictures of a friend of mine for his birthday and while under canopy I ended up in his burble. He flew a spectre 150 @ 1.3-ish and I'm under a Velo 103 @ 2.1 and it happened @ 2000f-ish.

I completely forgot that I was on full breaks and didn't expect other then some shaking at the most. You many say I was....surprised! I grounded my self the rest of the day. =/

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2oqTIZ6W2uU&feature=email&email=comment_received

*like*

mmm...good times, ey Trond? See you there next summer! ;)

I did 11 jumps on it while filming a 4-way team in Czech-rep. The opening are super nice and it handles well.

I flew a 99@ 2.4 but it felt a lot bigger then my velo 103. On one landing I felt I was close to something like a sweetspot, because all of a sudden it swooped far, without much speed compared to the velo.

It's a good canopy, but I like the Velo's aggressive behavior.

If you were to sew Typ 17 webbing in half, why not just do the same for Typ 8? They'll present the same surface to the wind, right? But Typ 8 will last longer and endure more.

And they will also lay nice on the sides of the reserve.

oh no! He's messing up his skiis!!!! poor skiis... such a waste =/

I think your post got de-railed =P

But how about this: A helmet that is super quiet, but equipped with electronics allowing normal speech to be let through, but engine noise and freefall noise be canceled :)

With carbon to protect your head!

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Did it beep right before it hit the ground?

...where was the camea? Exploding audibles rock! =D

I guess I should team up with a Nikon-dude and switch every week =P

I've had the same expereince, twice. I packed according to the manual both times and after the last one I had a Master Rigger doublechek if I did anything wrong, with the manual present. We both couldn't find anything wrong with my pakcing compared to the manual.

I then called UPT to ask why my $260 option and great innovation didn't work. I spoke with their rigger and was told about the potential race between the RPC and main canopy where the RPC could win. I was told that I could do two things to imporve the statistics:

1) make sure that the skyhook lanyard is thight and no slack is present from the skyhook and to the skyhook lanyard puch

2) tack the skyhook lanyard to the RPC bridle with riggers seal thread like on skyhook v1.

I was told that these two steps, especially the last one would give a 99% chance for the skyhook to work at all times.

I thought I red that they specified in their manual some time after I called that the skyhook lanyard need to be super thight from the pouch to the skyhook. Just to be sure I downloaded the latest manual from UPT and saw that the picutre illustrating how to route the skyhook is the same as I did before(see attached picture).

I'm a little confused now as to why I was told to not do as shown after having my skyhook fail upon me twice, and now they say this is how it's done?

Anyway, I think that having the skyhook lanyard thight prevents the RPC to race the main canopy and disconnect the Skyhook.

I've packed all skyhook rigs after my last cutaway with this configuration, though I've not sewn the skyhook lanyard to the RPC bridle.

heh...you might be better off getting a police scanner and do freelancing in one of the nearby cities.

Or just show up and skydive your ass broke ;)

sounds strange...I usually get a reply during the day or over the weekend.

Hit'em up again on monday. :)

it's nice that you're gathering info for the future when you want your own x-braced.

But there's only one important thing regarding, canopies at all levels. Demo them all(or as many as possible) and see for your self. We have all our own preferances and will of course preach our preferences as the best.

...and yeah..avoid the ditch digging business.

yeah..it feels edgy and motions is notisable as if they where...yeah. can't describe it but I get what you mean.

Love the look on the girls face! new skydivers has that childish expression on their faces. =)

I used MX pants from Lindstrands(scandianvian brand), and they were perfect for swooping(but lacking RDS pouch).

What do you want to accomplish by doing this?

Does it have any properties that Type 8 or 17 doesn't have?