Cloggy

At http://skydivekompasroos.nl/ is a nice interactive version of this regulation.
It shows what you can jump, depending on exit weight, total jump nr. and how many jumps you made in the last 12 months.

aktiefstoffen.nl (or one of it's incarnations activstoffe.de or activefabrics.co.uk) has a good selection of Cordura and outdoor fabrics.

Hi Hans, I'm not a rigger, I don't know what foams are used in containers.

But when I recently made new shoulderstraps for a backpack, Evazote foam was recommended to me for that purpose. It is a type of closed cell polyethylene foam, very wear resistent, durable and resilient and is available in several densities. (Some camping sleeping mats are made from Evazote.) Is this the type of foam you're after?

Skwrl

..... OP is just talking about adhesive....

Don't underestimate the adhesion of 3M tapes: they can take 80-100 lbs/in2. Twisting off will take less force, but it is not 'just adhesive'.

Good to see that you're questioning the information you receive and find what works for you. Regarding conflicting advice: I'd probably be inclined to attach a bit more weight to what Brian Germain's says, he seems to know what he's talking about .

As for the advice you got from that experienced jumper, are you sure that you understood what he meant?
If he intended to say: "flare smoothly instead of jabbing the toggles down, then shut it down at the end": I'd agree with him.
If it was: start "slooowly with flaring at 30ft up", not so much, as I think it's generally not a good idea to flare slowly.
You observed yourself what happens, the canopy slows down but you keep travelling at the same glide angle, it keeps sinking. By slowing down the energy needed to plane out and reduce vertical speed was lost: you can't flare effectively anymore.

My simplistic reasoning is: speed is energy: more speed equals more flare power. I usually wait with toggle input fairly long and then transition smoothly into horizontal flight.
And then: full flare, staged flare, smooth long flare? It all depends on the speed I came in with, how much room there is to 'play' with.

The stabilisation modes of the X3000 are not documented very well in the manual.

The choices are Off, Standard and Active.
To me it looks like the Standard setting is the normal steadyshot: for vibrations and shaky hands.
The Active mode is pretty amazing, it also does a nice job at smoothing out pans and tilts. If you suddenly turn the camera, you see the image lagging behind and then slow down to the new camera position.

Can't find it now, but I read somewhere that Active does a little cropping; I suppose it does a combo of optical and electronic stabilisation?

You saved yourself, happy to hear that. But imo this is not right at all: as it could have ended very badly and it looks like the situation was avoidable: 50ft separation??

Is the jumpnumber on your profile correct?
At 26 jumps you have no business with the rear risers on final. Your hands should be in the toggles.
It depends on canopy and wingload, but you are risking stalling your canopy, which could have ended painfully (like breaking your back).
If you didn't have time to react to him changing course, or if the gust of wind blew you into him, it seems you were far too close to the other guy as well.
You are the jumper that is higher and behind, it is your responsibility that both of you are safe. Keep sufficient horizontal separation in the landing circuit, so you have enough space and time for people (or the wind) doing crazy shit.

Thanks Peter. I hadn't seen the tie down loops at first in your picture, looking more closely now I see how it works.
I was also a bit concerned about the riser covers, I think I'll have to fold them down from the point where they taper to the original left and right flaps.

Dancingfisch

Awesome thanks for that mate. Exactly what I was talking about. Anyone have any idea of anyone selling them?

I guess these were made to order. Maybe you can ask the accuracy team about the jumpers that used them or which rigger made these?

I'm interested as well as it would solve a few problems for me. (No seperate rig to buy and maintain for those few accuracy and PC jumps I make).
Peter, as you have experience with this container extension, do you see any safety concerns? E.g. impeding the opening of the reserve container when it shifts around?

Nice site! Would be interesting to know how often the forecasts are updated.
Until now I used the local aviation weather bulletins (Belgium and the Netherlands), these are usually updated two or three times per day.

I throw the numbers from the bulletins in an Excel spreadsheet. Together with the opening altitude, minimum altitude over target, descent rate and canopy forward speed it calculates an exit point. Per vertical interval I calculate the drift, sum all these vectors and take the forward speed of the canopy itself into account to get bearing and distance of the exit point.

(Unfortunately the spreadsheet is not in a state that I can share, I threw it together in a hurry and it needs refinement.)

Not sure everybody is on the same page here?
The 4432 is a cheap household machine, wouldn't be worth the trouble and expense to retrofit? (Even if you can find a suitable servo motor that will fit inside).

Flyhi: beware. This guy started three threads, all of them about this Wimius cam.

yoink

If a tandem student is messing with your gear enough to pull your pin out ...

you should give them this complimentary closing pin. This design really nails it

Wouldn't this pin cause more wear on the closing loop: the edges on the bottom of the notch seem pretty sharp?

Hi Andy,

I think latest version of the firmware is 3.2.2: that's on my Neptune.
As Iago said the earlier firmware had some issues, but maybe this was already fixed before 3.2.1? I can't remember. So updating may not solve your problem: best to check with Alti-2 before you go through the trouble.


Flashing is a bit of a hassle: you need an old laptop with infrared port, the Ircomm2k-drivers (that only seem to work under Windows XP) and NMU Neptune maintenance Utility. As an alternative: on Windows10 I run a WindowsXP virtual machine under Virtualbox, with a USB infrared-dongle.


If you dig around on the old Alti-2 forum http://www.altimaster.com/forum.php there is a download page for infrared drivers and NMU: http://www.altimaster.com/forumdisplay.php?291-NMU-amp-Drivers
NMU 3.4.4 was the last standalone version.

Looks like my Sabre2: same size, same wingload https://youtu.be/sUL7PI3-l7E, apologies for the crappy footage. This opening was a bit worse than usual with more end cell closure and the slider hangs higher up. Usually it hangs about 1 meter above the risers.

I guess it is by design : slider hangs halfway down most of the times. I just grab the rear risers and it comes down.
I have around 600 jumps on this lineset and this behaviour seems to change over time: it wasn't always like this. I suppose this has to do with shrinking of the lines: changing trim and brake settings?

My N2 battery also lasts more than a year. It goes to sleep by itself: I don't think there even is a menu option to turn it off.

Two weeks battery life is ridiculous, sounds like it's broken. Did you buy this unit recently? If that is the case I'd take it up with the seller.

Just to be sure: backlight is turned off (Menu/Display Opt)?
And what firmware version is on the Neptune (Menu/Demo mode)?

The N2 hasn't been manufactured for many years, and was replaced with the N3, which was replaced with the Atlas.
I'm not sure if Alti-2 still does repairs on N2, but you can ask them.

Hi Terry, I chose this bag with crown lines on the outside as I thought this was the smallest packing solution, compared to short sleeves, pods etc. Also the easiest to make.
I was somewhat worried the d-bag might dump the canopy in a ball, because it is more wide than deep: the S-folds are about 30cm. It seems to work OK. So far
I don't have a drawing anymore, but I'll measure it next packjob.

Accumack, thanks for the tip. I thought I might get away with leaving the guide rings on the back risers and avoid the work. But it's better to change it, I'll probably do more jumps than I initially thought.

Hi Peter,

It fits quite nicely in the rig, I didn't even have to adjust the closing loop.

Reserve was repacked, so I finally had the chance to jump the PC a few times last weekend.
I really enjoyed jumping this old canopy Weather was perfect, hardly any wind and I made some nice accurate landings, on the T.

The bag worked great: I made a short slomo video of the opening https://youtu.be/_TCgh3Pl86U.

Thanks guys!

I think this is a MkI, not a competition as I first thought?

I was about to quit around my 5th jump: it felt so unnatural to leap into empty space, with nothing to hold on to
But after a while you start to trust yourself, your skills and your gear.
Instead of an opening to an alien and scary world, the door became the inviting entrance to fun time

Did I put the risers on the wrong side ? At least I'm sure I didn't switch back and front
I didn't pay any attention to the RSL, don't have one on my rig. These are old risers from another rig.
If all goes well, I can send you an autographed picture

A quick update: the D-bag is finished, thank you all for your help and info (I forgot to take a pic before packing...).
Now I'm waiting for the repack of my rig and jump the thing.
Obviously I'm really curious how the deployment will go.

A simple cotton drawstring pouch could do that job

But my mistake, I didn't read your question properly.
I made a basic bag for my wingsuit, is that more what you're looking for or too basic?

I like the design of the Parachute de France gearbags.

One padded main compartment for rig, two front bags for small stuff, two side bags for jumpsuit and straps to carry as rucksack.

Maybe you can use it as example, but for €99, why bother